Misc. Robert Collins
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Author: Robert Collins
Some editing: Jan Vandenbrande

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Disclaimer by the editor (& presumably the author):

These articles should be regarded as opinions and not fact.
If any product's name or company is mentioned, no connotation should be 
taken for its actual quality, value or use.
There is NO guarantee any of this information is correct.
Neither the authors, editors, or those who maintain these archives take
any responsibility for the consequences that may result from applying
any of the ideas presented within these articles.
Severe damage, injury or loss of life may result from applying the ideas 
presented.
Furthermore, before implementing any of the ideas, check whether such
modifications are allowed in your state, province or country.

All articles may be distributed freely and copied (unless otherwise stated)
as long as the original authors or origine are identified if available.

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>From: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: VWs and Porsches
Date: 14 Nov 88 02:25:53 GMT
Reply-To: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Organization: The Consultants' Exchange, Orange County, CA.  (714) 842-6348

In article <1902@eos.UUCP> renata@aurora.arc.nasa.gov writes:
>From article <11796@conexch.UUCP>, by rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins):
>
+I wish Darell Vittone was on the net to defend himself.  From what
+I've read and heard, Techtonics recommends against forged pistons
+in street cars for the same reason.  I'll check the catalog I got
+tonight, but I'm certain that the short and longblocks they sell
+do *not* use forged pistons.
+
On the welded strokers (anything other than 90.5mm) Darrel uses forged
pistons.  There is no doubt about it, as there are no cast pistons on
the market for odd-ball strokes.  Take it from me...I know (I'll explain
in the next paragraph).

+The best thing about Techtonics is that they *try* to be scientific
+and test all of their changes on their dynomometer and flow bench.
+You can argue about their methods only because they spell them out
+and try to be fair and open minded.  The info packets I've gotten
+from Drake and Autotech (sorry for naming them in the same paragraph)
+seemed built on experience and hype, respectively, but did not present
+reasonably controlled test data.
+
After having been sales manager at Drake for two years, I can tell you
beyond the shadow of a doubt that there is no company out there (HP VW)
that has more integrity.  Drake has ALWAYS dyno tested each and EVERY
product it sells for high performance.  As manager, I never even engaged
in 'guessing' horsepower, 'cuz it was too easy to get it dyno tested.
Drake uses a Heenan-Froude 1000hp dyno that is calibrated quarterly.
(Heenan-Froude is considered state-of-the-art in dynos.)  Drakes dyno
is completely computerized to compensate for atmospheric pressure, and
all other variables.  Techtonic's dyno is a 300hp dyno on wheels that
is purely analogue.  Inside the industry, there has been much speculation
on the integrity of Darrels dyno, and on Techtonics practices too.
Drake has recently duplicated much of the Techtonics GTI tests and found
(not surprisingly) radical differences between that Darrel claims, and
what Drake found.  I'm not at liberty to print those differences (in HP).

+My personal opinions & I have no connection with any above businesses,
+
Nor do I, but I have been inside the HP VW biz, and still have both
feet (and both hands) involved.  And the most discouraging aspect is when
someone else prints anything he wants (regardless of the truth), and
gets instant fame and glory from VW&P.

As one final comment:  Would you trust a magazine that let thier
advertisers write self-promoting articles -- making all kinds of claims
about performance -- and put the name of a staff writer on it?


-- 
"Worship the Lord your God, and serve him only."  Mat. 4:10
Robert Collins                 UUCP:  ucbvax!ucivax!icnvax!conexch!rob
HOMENET:  (805) 523-3205       UUCP:  uunet!ccicpg!turnkey!conexch!rob
WORKNET:  (805) 371-5081

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		Robert Collins On Jackson Racing
		================================

>From: rob@conexch.UUCP (Robert Collins)
Subject: Honda High Performance (was CRX lighting)
Keywords: go fast
Date: 6 Apr 88 07:03:50 GMT
Organization: The Consultants' Exchange, Orange County, CA.  (714) 842-6348

Ok guys, I'll help you figure out where to beat Jackson Racings 
prices.  After much pondering with respect to ethics, I came to
write this, and still maintain my integrity.

Sway Bars:
Who makes sway bars out there?  Does Jackson?  NO.  
Suspension Techniques, Sway-Away...they do.  And I believe Jackson
uses S/T sway bars.  All you have to do, is call S/T and ask for
a 'W/D' (warehouse distributor) dealer in your area.  Call the
number they give you, and make a deal with them.  I have found that
tire stores carry a lot of sway bars.  So give them a try.

Suspension bushings:
This is where Jackson may have you.  We couldn't find where they
buy there bushings from, and J/R won't sell them w/out a sway bar
kit.  You might try Sway-Away (aka B.C. Engineering) as a head
start.

Wheels & Tires:
Nobody need deal w/ J/R on this.  Anybody can sell rims & tires.

Springs & Shocks:
Same goes here as sway bars.  S/T makes springs for Honda, and
Bilstein, Koni, Tokiko make shocks.  Find a distributor for your
favorite shock/spring combo, and make a deal.

Cams:
Does J/R make cams?  NO.  Who does?
Iskendarian
Webcam
Crane
Erson
I can't guarantee that they all make Honda cams, but I know that one
of them does.  Try Isky first, then Webcam.  I bet one of them make
cams that J/R buys.  Also, as an underhanded way of finding out, call
each company.  If they make Honda cams, tell them you live in 
Huntington Beach Ca, and want to know a distributor in the area.  If
J/R is the answer, you know whose cam they use.  It is entirely
possible that J/R bought the rights to a particular cam grind, in which
case, the manufacturer would be very tight-lipped about it.  If this
is the case, you won't find out who makes them...even if you call
the manufacturer.

Lighting:
Euro lights (H4 lens) is made by Hella.  Find a Hella distributor, try
Electrodyne as a start.

Body kits:
You're on your own for that.

Exhaust systems:
J/R uses Bassani, Ansa, Monza, etc.  Find a distributor of these
exhausts, and circumvent J/R.  Supersprint, or Prima-Flow make
excellent exhausts...I highly recommend them over Ansa & Monza.
I understand the Bassani is only compatible w/ the cat converter
in place.  And believe me, don't simply put a test-pipe in a
system designed for a cat...you'll probably lose a few hp.  (If 
this doesn't seem possible, send me e-mail, and I'll explain.)
Electrodyne is a good start for Prima-flow & Supersprint.

Headers:
This is where I draw the line.  I can say that J/R has them made
specifically for them, and has an exclusive on the design.  It
would be unethical to post the manufacturer, besides, he wouldn't
sell to you anyways.  Supersprint, or Prima-flow might make headers
though.  Try them.

I hope this gives you guys some creative ideas on where to get Honda
parts cheaper than J/R.  You should be able to save about 30% over
J/R.

Automotive Performance Systems (APS)
(714) 630-1144 (Hella lighting, shocks, springs)

Crane Cams
(714) 870-4490

Electrodyne
(800) 336-3096 (Prima-flow, Supersprint, Hella lighting)

Erson Cams
(702) 882-1622

Iskendarien Cams
(213) 770-0930

Suspension Techniques 
(818) 442-7382  (Sway bars, lowering springs)

Sway-Away (aka B.C. Engineering)
(213) 398-7119 or  (Sway bars, suspension bushings)
(818) 988-5510 (or 5518, can't read the writing)

Webcam
(Couldn't find a number.  If it's important, send me e-mail).

Happy Motoring

+--------------------------------------------------------------+
| Be imitators of God, therefore, as dearly loved children and |
| live a life of love, just as Christ loved us and gave himself|
| up for us as a fragrant offering and sacrifice to God.       |
|                                                   Eph. 5:1,2 |
+------------------------------+-------------------------------+
| Robert Collins               | Sykes Systems, Inc            |
| 3361 Keys Lane               | Specializing in APL           |
| Anaheim, Ca.  92804          | 4649 Willens Ave.             |
| (714) 995-7344 (Home)        | Woodland Hills, Ca.  91364    |
| (714) 229-0284 (Work)        | (818) 704-9894                |
+------------------------------+-------------------------------+


X-NEWS: dev7d.mdcbbs.com rec.autos.vw: 175
Relay-Version: M&E Bulletin Board System 10/13/90 VAX/VMS V5.3; site mdcbbs.com
Path: mdcbbs.com!uunet!snorkelwacker.mit.edu!apple!altos!altos86!rcollins
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: GTI head on old style block
Message-ID: <57@altos86.Altos.COM>
From: rcollins@altos86.Altos.COM (Robert Collins)
Date: 6 Mar 91 21:14:04 GMT
Reply-To: rcollins@altos86.UUCP (Robert Collins)
References: <1894@mitisft.Convergent.COM>
Organization: Altos Computer Systems, San Jose, CA
Lines: 37

In article <1894@mitisft.Convergent.COM> kenb@mitisft.Convergent.COM (Ken Bright) writes:
>
>I think I can put a GTI head on my block. Is this true? 

Absolutely NO.  There are two GTI heads, the EURO 1.6L GTI, and the
1.8L GTI (all markets).  The Euro head will fit your block, but you will
need to change the pistons to make it work.  If you use your stock pistons,
you will be pushing over 12:1 compression ratio.  However, the EURO GTI
head isn't the best thing you could do.  Have the head you own be fitted
with larger valves, along with porting and polishing.  The best cam for
you is a stock carbureted rabbit cam with .410" lift.  This cam works
very good with trubo's.

About the 1.8L head.  It has two oil return galley's, where your head
has only one.  The bolt pattern is the same, and it is technically 
possible to make this combination work by welding up the second return
galley, and press-fitting a size reduction sleeve in the other hole --
as it is much larger than that of your block.  Some outfits (like
Overland Parts, I believe) were able to have the 1.8 head castings
machined to mate with the 1.6L block.  But this is NOT a stock part
and you can only get them from these people...you won't find it at
a wrecking yard.

If you want to do it right, you'll need to spend some money -- like
about $2500 to be approximate.  This would give you a big valve head
with a turbo cam, and a rebuilt bottom end with 7.5:1 compression
ratio.  If you are interested, call Stewart Van Dyne @ (714) 847-4417.
Nobody can build a turbo like he can...in fact, he designed the
Callaway kit on your car, and is the youngest person to EVER build
an Indy-500 winning motor (while working for Drake Engineering).


-- 
"Worship the Lord your God, and serve him only."  Mat. 4:10
Robert Collins                 UUCP:  ...!sun!altos86!rcollins
HOME:  (408) 225-8002
WORK:  (408) 432-6200 x4356

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