AIR INTAKE MODIFICATIONS
========================
Edited by Jan Vandenbrande
AIRBOX
======
Some of the newer VWs (90+) benefit from air box (aka air filter housing)
modifications.
The idea is to improve intake airflow which will allow more gas/fuel
mixture to enter the cylinders (aka, improved charging), which in turn
leads to more power and better fuel economy.
The air box modifications come in different flavors:
1) Remove the cold air intake "horn" restrictor (non-destructive)
Note that some cars have a fine mesh here that gets clogged
very easily.
The official name for the horns is "Helmholtz resonator" and
their purpose in life is to reduce noise.
2) Remove the hot air intake restrictor (non-destructive, some cars)
3) Drill holes (>1" in diamater) in the bottom of the airbox (destructive)
4) Remove stock air box and replace with a different assmbly consisting
of an airfilter, usually a free-flowing airfilter (reversible).
Some vendors (e.g., Neuspeed) sells such kits under the name of PFlow
which consists of assorted hardware, a bracket an a K&N filter.
All of the above mods work even better in conjunction with a free flow
filter, such as a washable K&N Filter (tm).
Benefits:
---------
1) A couple of Hp gain, about 3-5 Hp with a K&N filter on Corrados
2) Unknown
3) Unknown
4) About 2 Hp more than 1)
Note:
-----
Some dyno tests have shown that the VR6 engines are very suseptible
to air intake temperature.
Installing some kind of ducting to draw in cooler outside air may
therefore be beneficial.
Drawbacks:
----------
Messing with the hot air intake (aka, intake preheat) may be against the law
(it's part of the pollution control equipment).
Possible chance of water intake (very minor)
Possible cold running problems if the preheat is removed.
Noisier. In some cars it sounds really cool, on the G60 it's
annoying.
Possible reduction in the low end.
These modifications have been tried on the following cars:
Corrado G60 - Too noisy but quite noticable.
The G60 gives off an eerie haunting noise
"hhhhhweeeooooOOooooOOOOooo"
Corrado SLC - Some improvements, sounds like a big block V8. Real cool.
Passat 2l 16V - See below
GTI 1990 - See below
Jettas - See below
Ducting - See below
The procedure to do this mod varies a bit, but is fairly straightforward
and similar to the description below.
I took the liberty of adding a few comments to Bernd's notes.
SEWERPIPES
==========
(See also Mark: where@maple.circa.ufl.edu)
Another modification that has been discussed in EC (Oct93) which
is mostly applicapable for older cars (85-87) is to use a
a big diameter modified copper sewer paper to connect the air intake sensor
with the throttle body.
The stock has some bends in it and is less than smooth which they
claim impedes airflow.
VW claims the bends are there to divert any shockwaves from a
"front fire".
So far results are have been subjective (i.e., dyno shows no difference).
Jan
==============================================================================
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: Digifant GTI Airbox Modifications
Well, since it was a "fix-it" day at the VW Club yesterday, I decided
to give the simple air-box modification a go. Here are some
observations.
Golf 1990 GTI with RV-series engine. Digifant fuel injection.
The simplest modification which can be done, other than going for a
free-flow filter, is to remove the airbox inlet "restrictor". This is
easily removed by pulling it out through the front of the airbox.
Don't attempt to do this if you've never worked on engines before and
don't have somebody with experience to watch over you while you're
doing it. There are lots of things that are common sense to those with
experience - like turning off the engine first - which I won't mention
explicitly.
Obviously, you'll have to remove the lower half of the airbox first -
simple enough, just release the two rubber straps (one on the engine
side and one tucked up against the strut tower), then undo the filter
box clips around the rim, just as you would for a filter change.
Remove the shroud between back of the headlight and the airbox. Undo
the vacuum line from the top half of the airbox (the inlet temperature
control) to the air regulator actuator (the round thing sticking out
the side!). Last, but no least, loosen off the preheat air hose at the
back of the airbox.
With a little juggling, the top of the airbox can then be disengaged
from the lower half, allowing the lower half to be lifted out of the
engine bay completely. Don't bother trying to remove the filter element
before you take out the airbox. It's much easier afterwards. The lower
half sits on 4(?) "pins", each of which has a rubber washer - don't
lose these. The upper half of the airbox can be rested comfortably on
the top of the engine. Don't go poking your finger on the underside
because there's a very expen$ive and fragile air-flow meter in there.
[Note: On SLCs you may have too loosen the AC hose that runs on the top
of the air box first. On the SLC, you have to remove the airbox
in pieces, on Corrado G60s, the whole unit can be removed in one
piece. Do not loose those rubber bands. The SLC is EXTEREMLY tight
in that area, and it took me over 1/3 hour to relocate it. Jan]
Now that you have the lower half of the airbox out, you'll note that
the inlet cross-section is about 32mm. This is in one piece with the
conical piece inside the airbox, leading to the air temp regulator
flap. You should note that there's a join at the airbox where the inlet
section has been inserted.
Find a gap in the join, big enough to get a "start", and gently prise
out the inlet piece, working around the join, bit by bit, until the
inlet section can be pulled out easily by hand. I found a broad, sharp
flat-bladed screwdriver useful. It's the only tool I needed.
That's it... all that remains is to reassemble the airbox, sans inlet
"restrictor" and to go for a test drive. Make sure you reconnect
everything, including the preheat air hose and the temp regulator
vacuum line. Make sure that the only "spare" you have is the inlet
restrictor.
[Note: The easiest way to reinstall those rubber bands is to put
a piece of rope through it, clip the lower half of the rubber band
to the car's body, then pull on the string with one hand and guide
it on with the other. Now just pull the rope out. It'll save you
some skinned knuckles. Jan]
Do one final check - airbox clipped together and seated correctly,
vacuum to temp regulator connected, preheated air hose connected and
tightened.... brain still engaged?
Don't let the excitement of the moment overwhelm you! Go and clean
your hands, have a cup of coffee. Then check again. You can cause some
expen$ive engine damage if you allow dirt to go past the filter,
through the flow-meter and into the guts of the engine.
Start the engine and walk around to the front of the car. If you can
hear something different, you have either done something wrong, or you
are simply kidding yourself. Removing the restrictor makes virtually no
difference at idle.
Observations: (I've only covered about 150km since the mod so far)
1. There seems to be less throttle required to maintain the same
speed. This may be subjective.
2. A hill which I couldn't climb in top gear without exceeding the
speed limit (60kmh) is no longer a problem. The engine doesn't
labour and excessive throttle opening is not required.
3. Wide-open-throttle induction noise is much more pronounced.
(LOUDER) If it were a family sedan, it could be seen as intrusive.
4. Throttle response seems livelier. However, when WOT is applied
at about 2500 RPM or less, the engine almost appears to choke on the
fresh air... it seems like a flat spot. Applying WOT more gradually
does not lead to this hesitation. Apparently the programmers of the
Digifant didn't expect the airflow to increase to rapidly.
5. Under some throttle conditions, there is a very loud booming from
what seems like the airbox, accompanied by a flattening of the
engine response. It _seems_ (I haven't done measurements yet) more
sluggish than when the "restrictor" is inserted.
6. The engine doesn't run out of grunt as quickly. It now goes
to 6000 RPM easily, pulling strongly past the previous 5300 RPM.
7. You get to hear some new mechanical sounds - especially at WOT.
Summary:
1. More work to do. More testing.
2. The inlet "restrictor" seems to serve several purposes:
reduce the amount of induction noise provides cold-air shutoff
on cold days may be tuned to prevent flat spots in response
3. Without the inlet restrictor, pre-heat would be only marginally
effective as the cold air cannot be shut off completely. I'm
thinking of connecting a horizontally, centre-hinged flap at the now
very large inlet opening, to the regulator flap with a push-wire,
facilitating shutoff of cold air.
4. The booming can probably be reduced and the cause used to provide
an improvement in airflow through the box. There are probably
standing waves of air-pressure preventing air from flowing as freely
as it should. If I was going just for airflow, I'd be tempted to
puch a hole in the side on the airbox (below the filter) to allow an
alternative path. However, I might just take a bent 50mm pipe from
the inlet and pass it to the rear of the box - allowing for an
out-of-phase air-pulse to reduce the noise and to improve net flow.
5. You get what you pay for. 10 minutes of your time isn't wasted by
trying the mod. And it's reversible - unless you break or lose
something. [Time is a bit more on other cars].
That's it for now.... A K&N free-flow filter arrives in a couple of
weeks and I'll see what that does. I'll try to keep you up to date as I
try different things.
Meanwhile, any suggestions and comments are welcome. Remember, I'm not
in the US where performance bits are neither easy or cheap to get. The
K&N filter is taking 9 weeks.
--
+-----+ Bernd Felsche, MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd ,,, Phone: +61 9 362 9355
| | | | bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (o o) Fax: +61 9 472 3337
| | | | 328 Albany Highway, Victoria Park -oOO--(_)--OOo- Western Australia
|m|p|s| "Nur der kleine Geist haelt Ordnung: das Genie ueberblickt das Chaos!"
==============================================================================
Subject: Re:(restrictor)was Cracked headlight help
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Date: 28 Jul 92 12:32:02 CDT
In article <4525@dove.nist.gov> keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys) writes:
>In article <1992Jul28.083737.13585@walter.cray.com> dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore) writes:
>>
>>
>> A neat thing I noticed while inspecting for possible removal, the
>>air intake for the engine goes right into the VW logo in front. Visions
>>of removing the logo to get better airflow danced through my head. I have
>>already removed the restrictor before the airbox. Any other cheap improve-
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>ments for a KE-Motronic(?) 2.0 16v I could do?
>>
>>Robert
>
>
>What's this about a "restrictor before the airbox". I never knew about any
>restrictor. How did you find out about this restrictor? And isn't your
>engine the same as mine (1990 Jetta GLI 2.0 16v), i thought that it was
>a "CIS-E Motronic". Maybe i'm wrong. Anyway, tell me more about that
>restrictor. If there's more power to be had I WANT IT TOO! Ok! My brother
>would want it too seeing he has a 1990 Passat, with automatic (his wife
>made him get it) (snicker ;-].
>
Yea I know, my wife made me get it too. (sigh!)
Okay here's the description. The air box is located under the fuel pump
assy. Towards the front of the air box there is a 2 inch hose that enters
the lower front of the box. You should notice what looks like a collar approx.
3/4 of an inch wide between the two. Here comes the fun part. You must remove
the rubber bands which hold the box down, hello knuckles, ouch! Then you pull
the hose out of the front of the air box. Then you remove the restrictor that
looks like a horn. Please keep in mind that there are many breakable, removable
hoses still attached to the box while you are doing this.
Most Vw's Jetta's have this restrictor as well but it is designed
differently.
This mod was suggested by APS's Tech line. Anybody have any info on
thier chips. They claim 5-10 increase at low end and high end with better
"driveability" especially with the automatic? Price is about 250us.
Robert
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: scottst@microsoft.com (Scott Stiles)
Subject: Re: [W] Corrado SLC Airbox restrictor.
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 1994 17:50:59 GMT
In article mvoorhis@zklzz.WPI.EDU wrote:
>
>under the paper air filter, there are two
> intake ducts into the airbox.
>
> One is a large oval intake in the front of the box, screened off with
> a wire mesh to prevent larger items (bugs/rocks/&c.) from getting into
> the airbox and blocking the paper air filter.
>
> In the back is a circular door, attached to a big spring, which I
> imagine opens only when there is enough vacuum inside the airbox to
> push back the spring. With the spring closed there is only minimal
> airflow past this thing, as all the openings are covered/sealed with a
> foam-rubber seal. The door's diameter is about two inches, and when
> the door is opened, there is nothing between the paper air filter and
> the outside air. There don't appear to be any air pre-heating hoses
> in my engine compartment, unless there's one that enters the system
> *after* the air filter.
>
> I imagine removing this spring-door at the back of the airbox might
> provide an increase in horsepower by increasing airflow to the engine,
> but I didn't test this, and probably wouldn't have noticed it anyway.
> Has anyone else removed this thing from their airbox? Anyone noticed
> a difference? I drove my 85hp Jetta all winter, so I'm not a
> terriffic tester for this, since it would only be the difference
> between `amazing acceleration #1' and `amazing acceleration #2'.
>
I recently, with some helpful advice from Jan, performed some airbox
mods on my '93 SLC with great results.
The car (with 6K miles) was feeling sluggish, the car just wasn't responding
well at high rpm's especially after it warmed up.
After the mods, the car had a raspier intake note (very
cool) and much better throttle response combined with a noticeable power
increase at high RPM's.
Upon removal of the airbox, I discovered that the fine mesh screen (at the
front/bottom of the box) was completely clogged with debris. I'm guessing
that the engine was drawing air exclusively from the "Hot Air" intake (the
sprung intake at the rear/bottom of the box) which is very restrictive!
I would recommend against removing the door on the rear intake, this is
designed as a bypass intake if other intakes are clogged and draws air
in from around the engine (which is very hot). As we all know, the colder
the intake-air the better.
Here are the items that I removed (following APS's recommendations):
-There is a large (approx 6" long 3" dia) tube attached to the top lid of the
airbox, I removed this by sliding it towards the MassAirflowMeter.
-I removed the fine mesh wire screen at the bottom/front of the box.
Future planned modifications (when it's time to replace orig. filter):
-replace the filter element with a K&N for better flow
-remove the tube that the screen was attached to (going out the front of
the box), this will allow more air into the box but it probably won't be
as "cold".
This tube is mated to the rear of the headlight assy, acting as
a cold air source. VW must have thought this was important because the mating
surfaces are sealed with a foam surround.
-I may, instead of removing the cold-air feed tube, drill a 2" hole next to the
tube inlet, providing additional flow.
APS told me that they see a 5hp gain with K&N+airbox-mods as described above, as
compared to a 6hp gain using their P-Flo filter.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: [W] Digifant GTI Filter Airbox: Restoring Preheat
A while ago, I posted a message describing how to remove the
filter airbox cold-air restrictor.
One of the problems I noticed immediately, was that the inability
to shut off cold air caused rough idle when cold and also an inrush
of cold air when "working" the engine in cold weather would cause a
bad flat-spot.
To restore the airbox's preheat capability is simple and straight-
forward. Though not quite as simple as removing the inlet restrictor,
the task can be easily completed in a couple of hours, even if you have
to hunt for tools and materials!
I have gone through the following procedure (and some trial and error
I'm too embarrassed to mention) in less than one Sunday morning.
Total cost? About 10 cents.
What you need:
o A piece of semi-rigid plastic, about 200 mm x 100 mm
I used the base of an ice-cream tub :-) It doesn't have
to be perfectly flat.
o A wire coathanger - plastic coated, colour to match the
piece of plastic :-) Plastic-coated wire from other sources
is OK too.
o Two pairs of pliers. Combination pliers with wire cutters
are OK, but try to get one pair with a long nose as well.
o Wire cutter if not provided by combi-pliers.
o A drill with a tiny bit, and one slightly larger than the
wire size. Drill bits should be sharp.
o A sharp blade or scissors.
o A fine-point marker pen, with contrasting colour to the
piece of plastic :-|.
o A hole-punch.
o Duct tape.
o A rule.
o A small workbench.
o Less than two hours.
o Soap and water to wash your hands :-)
Please read the entire procedure before starting.
Procedure:
o Remove lower half of airbox from car as described previously.
o Remove filter element and store out of harm's way.
o Remove the centre brace in the air-box, running across
the width. It is extracted by pulling it straight up.
You may need to prise it up gently on alternating sides
to get a start.
o Remove the inlet restrictor if you have not already done
so. It pulls out to the front. Use brains, not brawn.
A full procedural description was given in my previous
posting. Perhaps Jan has been archiving it...
Making a cold-air throttle flap:
o Place the rigid plastic piece flat on the workbench and
position the airbox "on-end", with the wide inlet opening
aligned so that it is covered by the plastic.
o Using the marker pen, trace the inside of the opening
against the plastic. Those whose dexterity is "challenged"
may require an assistant to hold the airbox.
o Put the airbox down and check that the marking you have
made is reasonable (no need to be perfect!), then cut
around the outside of the marking, staying as close as
possible to the edge of the marker line. The bit you are
cutting out is supposed to fit inside the "throat" of the
inlet opening.
o Check the plastic for size in the throat of the opening.
A slight clearance around the outside is OK.
o Mark the long centreline of the plastic piece you have
cut out and punch holes at about 40mm from either end.
Holes should be about 5mm, but can be slightly larger.
Fitting the cold-air throttle flap:
o Find the centreline on the side of the inlet throat opening
on the airbox. You will probably notice that there are plastic
moulding join marks on the outside.
o Drill a small hole to fit the wire in each side of the throat,
on the centreline, 15 mm back from the front of the throat.
o Cut a piece of wire from the coat hanger (a short straight
"side" piece is enough) with length to suit the width of the
throat plus about 15mm either side.
o Insert the wire into one of the holes drilled through the
airbox throat side, position the throttle plate so that
the wire can be "threaded" through both of the punched
holes in the plate, to emerge at the other end and be
pushed through the hole in the throat on the other side.
The throttle plate will need to be flexed for this to work.
o Check that the throttle flap rotates freely on the wire hinge
to close the throat. The top half of the flap should be made
to hinge out... but if you think this is a bad idea, then you
can do otherwise and compensate accordingly later.
o DO NOT yet bend over both the ends of the wire hinge.
Modifying the warm-air control flap.
The wierd gadget at the back of the airbox is a vacuum-actuated
flap, closing against the warm-air inlet. It needs to be
modified to allow for its action to be transferred to the
just-installed cold-air throttle flap. This transfer will be
done via a piece of wire, inserted through a hole which needs
to be drilled in the moving part of the warm-air flap.
With a vacuum line attached to the actuator, it can be made to
move over a wide range of positions. The location for the hole
can be determined by an examination of movement while actuating
it using suction (it doesn't take much).
o With the airbox resting on the workbench, hold the rule
approximately parallel to the side of the box, just above
the warm-air flap, about 5mm from its hinge. Work the flap
by sucking on the vacuum line (YUK!) and find the
approximate distance from the hinge where the motion parallel
to the side of the box (stroke) is about 10 mm. No need to be
exact, you can fine-tune later :-)
o Mark the distance on the flap edge and find a place in the
flap where you can drill a hole large enough for the piece
of wire, somewhere below the marked location... look around
the back! I found a nice position half-way between
"stiffeners" at the back of the flap. YMMV depending on
the type of airbox.
o Carefully drill the hole. A small pilot hole may be needed
if your drill is too long to fit inside the airbox. (I
didn't try to remove the flap assembly. It didn't seem
worth the trouble.) Remove any "swarf".
Making the action-transfer push-wire:
o Cut the longest straight section from what's left of the
wire coathanger.
o Bend one end as I shall try to illustrate in this ASCII
universe:
x
w |
/\ |y
/ \/
/ z
/
/
/
/
Basically, starting at one end (x) holding the wire vertically,
bend UP and away from you 90 degrees (to horizontal) at 20mm down
(y), bend RIGHT 90 degrees at about 4mm across (z) on the horizontal,
then bend FORWARD at about 10mm (w) to the right.
The 4mm y-z dimension is about 2mm more than the thickness of the
flap's hinge.
o Trim the x-y length back to about 5mm. I was being generous by
allowing you more length to grip the wire for bending.
o Put the wire through the drilled hole in the warm-air flap. This
is easiest by holding the wire vertically by the longest leg,
pointing the (trimmed) x at the hole and while pushing it through
the hole, gently rotating the wire down. The x-y leg will end
up vertical, at the back of the flap and the w-z will
(approximately) rest against the front face.
o If you have a very long piece of wire, it may not be possible
to swing it all the way down. In any case, the length will
have to be trimmed! Cut it so that you can just get it through
the edge of the throat opening. Flexing and slight bending is
permitted. Don't cut it too short. No amount of cutting will
make it longer. :-)
o Position the push-wire so that it is parallel to the side of
the airbox, and passes over/under the cold-air flap hinge at
the inlet throat.
o Using the marker pen, mark the location on the push-wire
where it passes over/under the flap hinge wire. Then, restraining
the push-wire from moving sideways, actuate the warm-air flap
by applying vacuum. Mark the position on the wire where it
crosses the hinge wire when the flap is open as far as it goes.
o Measure the distance between the two marks on the push-wire.
That is the stroke.
o Mark a line at the stroke distance below the hinge on the
cold-air flap. On that line, mark the point where the push-wire
would pass through the marked line, to remain approximately
parallel to the airbox side. Easier done than said!
o Drill a hole large enough for the wire in the cold-air flap
at the marked point. To err on the "safe" side, drill closer
to the hinge as this will ensure that the cold-air flap will
always close fully, the push-wire flexing to absorb excess
stroke. (Don't overdo it...) It's easiest to remove the flap
for this.
o Remove the flap, if you haven't already done so, and reinstall
it, threading it over the push-wire and installing the hinge
as before.
o Position the cold-air flap horizontally, make sure that the push
wire is still seated in the warm-air flap, and that the warm-air
flap is fully closed. Mark the position on the push-wire where
the wire passes through the cold-air flap. Don't lose this mark.
o Remove the cold-air flap and the push-wire. The mark made in the
previous step is the reference point for a last few bends.
o Bending. Oh dear, here we go again...
x
w |
/\ |y
/ \/
/ z
/
/
/
/a
\
\b
c/
|
d|
Holding the wire so that the long end is pointing away from you,
with the x-y section vertical, bend the wire HORIZONTALLY to
your LEFT at 90 degrees at the bending refernece point (a).
It's better to bend a bit on the "cold" end of the push wire,
than on the warm.
Bend the wire HORIZONTALLY FORWARD, about 10mm along the LEFT
leg (b).
Bend the wire VERTICALLY DOWN about 3mm along on the new FORWARD
LEG (c). You may need to increase the b-c dimension if the
cold-air flap material is much more than 1mm thick.
Length of the remaining leg (c-d) should be trimmed back to no
more than 25mm, to ensure that it clears the inlet throat.
Optionally, you may put a short LEFT "retainer" bend on the
c-d leg, at about 10mm from c. I have not found this necessary.
Final Assembly and Testing:
o Replace the cold-air flap, note that the lower side should
swing inwards freely and that is should have the hole for
the push-wire below the hinge.
o Install the push-wire at the warm end first. Remember it goes
in and down, then swing it across to the cold-air flap. You
should be able to insert the cold end of the push-wire into
the hole in the cold-air flap when that flap is near-horizontal.
If the wire won't reach the hole with the warm-air flap closed,
then you may need to make a new push-wire. A small amount of
"adjustment" is possible by straightening out the (z) and (a)
bends a little. (Hope your SO won't lynch you because you may
need another coathanger!)
o Check that the warm-air flap action is transferred to the
cold-air flap by applying vacuum to the actuator. (Suck it
and see! :-) )
At, or near full stroke, the cold-air throat should be closed
off almost completely.
If you have trouble, the mechanism should be easy enough to
understand to debug. (Horror stories about what went wrong
are welcome.)
o If it gets _really_ cold where you live, you may wish to reduce
residual cold-air flow by masking off the punched holes in the
cold-air flap and reducing side-leakage by glueing sealing
strips across the innper-upper and the lower-outer edges
on the cold-air inlet throat so that the closed flap closes
against them.
o You may wish to close off the small opening left by the removal
of the inlet restrictor cone at the base of the airbox with
a small piece of duct tape, inside and out. I think that the
small round hole is a water drain, so don't overdo the sealing!
o Put a right-angle bend at each end of the cold-air flap hinge
wire, outside the throat. That will stop it from coming adrift.
o Replace the centre airbox brace. The only "spare" you should
have after this exercise is the inlet restrictor!
o Replace the air filter element (if the dog hasn't tried to have
it for breakfast!) and replace the airbox assembly in the car.
Batten down the hatches. Make sure that all the right hoses
are reconnected - including the warm-air hose at the back.
o Clear the engine bay and crank up the engine. If it's not a
really warm day, then the cold-air flap should close within
a few seconds of idle, probably before you can hop around to
the front of the car.
If not, switch off the engine, disconnect the upper end of the
vacuum line leading from the upper half of the airbox to the
flap actuator and suck on the line. If the cold-air flap closes
when vacuum is applied, and opens when released, then you have
not made a mistake. Check out my description on the
functioning of the airbox in a previous article to isolate the
problem, if there really is one - it may just not be cold
enough!
o Tidy up and wash your hands.
The modification restored much of the lost cold-idle and cold-running
smoothness which existed before the inlet restrictor was removed. Fuel
consumption has not changed noticably, though with our cold weather
arriving, I expect that improved preheat efficiency will improve fuel
consumption over having only partial preheat.
Performance otherwise is about the same as with the inlet restrictor
removed, except that the flat spot previously noted in cold weather
has been reduced in severity. There is still a flat-spot, even on
warm days, probably because the injection logic doesn't know how to
cope ith so much air flow at such low RPM. (It's probably sending the
airflow sensor wide-open before 3000RPM, instead of the expected
4000RPM.) The flat spot can be controlled by not driving through that
RPM range with wide-open throttle.
It feels a bit wierd backing off slightly and getting more power!
Must be a part of Fahrvergnuegen.
Next project?
Now that airbox has lost its restrictor, it has also lost the inlet
funnel, which would normally duct the air from behind the headlight.
(Readers may remember that my headlight protectors blocked off that
airflow anyway.) Now, "cold" air is drawn in from the engine bay,
not much of a problem until summer.
I discussed this with a couple of people, and my mechanic pointed
to the side of the wheel well, where there's a plastic blanking plate
just in front of the airbox, near the headlight. The next step is
to investigate what's behind it, and if it's suitable, to make
a duct so that colder air than that under-bonnet, is available on
hot days.
Also, I noticed that the engine loves the humid days, so with
our dry summer air, a humidifier may become part of that project.
--
+-----+ Bernd Felsche, MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd ,,, Phone: +61 9 362 9355
| | | | bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (o o) Fax: +61 9 472 3337
| | | | 328 Albany Highway, Victoria Park -oOO--(_)--OOo- Western Australia
|m|p|s| Dodging traffic on the information Super-Highway
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From <@camhpp49.ug.eds.com,@mail.uunet.ca:tom.neumann@canrem.com> Tue Oct 11 23:
33 PDT 1994
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 1994 20:58:00 -0400
From: tom.neumann@canrem.com (Tom Neumann)
Subject: RE: CORRADO & OTHERS PROB
Hi Jan!
I was recently speaking with Gunther Schmidt; he races the Jetta GLX
(VR6) quite successfully.
Engine mods allowed in his class are quite minor and he mentioned some
tips for the VR6 engine.
His, out of the box, and before balancing and blue-printing, got 184
hp on the dyno. He tore it down, balanced and blueprinted it and did
two minor modifications: he changed to the K&N air filter (the free
flowing one) and used the Passat manifold piece that connects the
airbox to the intake manifold. He replaced the chip in the engine
management system to eliminate the speed limiter (and swears that's
the only change he made to it!).
The result of the above is 215 hp on the dyno with a good increase in
midrange torque. I mentioned that some people had mixed reults with
the free flowing air filter and he told me the secret of it: He found,
through dyno testing and race experience, that the VR6 engine is quite
sensitvie to the air temperature going into the air intake. When he
just ran the filter in the normal engine compartment lots of hot air
was going into the intake with the result that there was little, if
any, power gain.
He made some ductwork that ducts air directly from the front of the
car into the air filter (in his case on the racing car through the
right headlight assembly) and noticed gains in the power immediately.
You might want to mention this in the FAQ as it sounds like a way that
most people will get some extra power. Obviously they wouldn't want to
remove the headlight, but htere must be other ways to insure the
filter gets fresh, cool air.
Tom
---
* 1st 1.11 #3720 * I sell Volkswagens
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Article 3693 of rec.autos.vw:
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Path: bbs.ug.eds.com!news.cerf.net!news.ov.com!pad-thai.cam.ov.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!DIALix!metapro!bernie
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Passat air restrictor
Message-ID:
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 1995 04:32:59 GMT
References: <9503282239.A1681wk@dynamite.com>
Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia
Lines: 62
In <9503282239.A1681wk@dynamite.com> ryan.rahim@dynamite.com writes:
> > From: dslau@girtab.usc.edu (David S Lau)
> > I'm trying to locate the before-mentioned horn shaped
> > air restrictor found on 16V Passats.
> > From what I heard, all you need to do is remove
> > both halfs of the plastic air tube and funnel
> > that lead into the airbox. Then in the opening
> > of the airbox, there resides the restrictor.
> > I removed the air piping, but there is no
> > restrictor in the opening of the airfilter box.
> > I don't suppose it would be the warm air intake
> > instead of the cold air, would it? Or does
> > the entire air box need to be opened to get to
> > the restrictor?
>I was curious: Is this in any way detrimental to the car? How much extra hp
>do you get?
>I'm willing to do it to mine, if all it means is a louder car....
I did something similar on my GTI and it did get louder; but also
allowed the engine to rev more freely. The useful power band is
extended by at least 500 RPM at the top so my 2-3 changes no longer
wind up in a "hole". Acceleration has improved with terminal speed
to my favourite hill-top, from a standing start increasing by at
least 10kmh.
It's also reduced fuel consumption and somehow increased torque at low
revs - the latter I can't figure out why - because now I can go up some
hills at the speed limit (60 kmh) in 5th gear, which previously
required 4th -- or higher speed! Fuel consumption is down because there
is less power wasted at intake. Flow velocity went from over 100 m/s
to about 9 m/s. This is worth at least 750 W (about 1HP) at 6000 RPM,
without even doing a rigourous calculation about flow compressibility
in an orifice, blah, blah, blah. So you get at least that much more.
If you live in a cold/temperate climate, then the mod. may reduce
the effectiveness of intake air preheat when it's cold. This causes
driveability problems especially when the engine is cold. Steps
can be taken to restore effective pre-heat - with just a little more
work -- assuming that the airfilter box is substantially the same
as that in the GTI.
If you live in a hot/temperate climate, you will probably have to make
arrangements to duct cold air to the airfilter box inlet, otherwise
you're sucking in warm air from the engine bay which reduces engine
power output.
A free-flowing air-filter element such as a K&N also improves power,
but it didn't give the same amount of improvement as removing the inlet
restriction.
I posted some detailed articles in this newsgroup when I did the mod's
to my car, perhaps you can find them archived at a convenient site.
--
Bernd Felsche, MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd
130 Fauntleroy Avenue, Redcliffe, Western Australia 6104
Phone: +61 9 479 3722 Fax: +61 9 479 3720
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Date: Sat, 22 Jul 1995 16:53:42 -0400
From: TurboTim@aol.com
Subject: Re: Intake temp. results
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
To: corrado-l@teleport.com
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In a message dated 95-07-22 01:45:55 EDT, you write:
>The temp rose maybe 4 - 5 degrees while the
>fan was running, above ambient temperature that is. Otherwise the temp
>did not move much. The factory put all those little plastic sheild
>thingys there for a reason I guess.
Contrary to popular belief we (ND) fine the factory air box is a very good
design.
On our turbo models we fine more HP with a K&N element in the stock box than
with a funnel filter. If you like the noise cool but I guess I like to hear
the exhaust and not the PIG FLOW. So sorry if I offended you because you have
one of these. To each their own. Another problem is they are not ALL CARB
legal yet. Anyways we were suprised to find 4 hp in our stock GLX by the
element alone. We'll have to do some more testing. Great !! Another thing to
dyno test.
Also test the difference between the stock and funnel type filter. Post you
results all together. Should look Cool !!
**TT**
================================================================================
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 1995 23:12:46 -0400
From: UniqueVR6@aol.com
Subject: Re: Air intake improvements?
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
To: corrado-l@teleport.com
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This was posted on AOL, I'm forwarding it here as some of you might find this
to be of interest:
******************************************************************************
**
Subj: Re:Air intake improvements?
Date: 95-07-20 18:07:04 EDT
From: Porstec
I fabricated a ram -air system on my G-60 by relocating the carbon canister
rearward to the inner fender. Two big tie straps will do.. there is a rubber
plug you can remove under the stock air box to run the lines through.
An air intake scoop was added under the spoiler on the right side. 3"
flexible tubing was run up to the air box where a 3" hole was drilled ,and a
3" adapter was expoxied in the lower right corner of the box and the hose
connected. The filter is a o.e.m.-style K&N.
The greatest noticeable increase in power is at speeds in excess of 70 mph.
In 4th gear at 4500rpm the thing fills up and hauls! So far in wet weather no
water entry has been detected. The engine has been very highly modified and
your results will vary. The trade off? LOTS of filter cleaning.
P.S. Seal off the stock air box inlet and any other holes you may have
drilled, and make sure the hot air inlet vacuum actuated flap works. All
parts were puchased through Pegusus racing for 57.00, time involved was about
2.5 hours.
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Thu Jul 20 20:53 PDT 1995
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 1995 18:19:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Intake temp. results
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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Well I was bored today so I did some of the temperature tests. Here are
the results -
Ambient temp while sitting in drivway 87 F
While driving droped to 85
Moved sensor to engine side of filter
Let car idle for about a minute- temp did not rise
Drove car at 50 mph, about 1/2 mile later temp started to rise quikly and
went all the way up to 122 F.
Stoped car and moved sensor to the other side of the filter.
While driving temp came down to 104 F.
Stoped car, temp slowly rose to about 110 F.
I noticed that the temperature rose only when the car was moving, or the
fan came on, makes sense to me. The filter is definetly getting more hot
air than it idealy should though. I will try to make a sheild or duct to
help direct more cool air to it. I'll let you know if anything works.
Brian 93 VR6
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Fri Jul 21 22:49 PDT 1995
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 1995 19:19:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: Intake temp. results
In-Reply-To: <950719223459_36537889@aol.com>
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Man, the stock air box was a pain to put back in. However I did the same
types of tests with it in. The temp rose maybe 4 - 5 degrees while the
fan was running, above ambient temperature that is. Otherwise the temp
did not move much. The factory put all those little plastic sheild
thingys there for a reason I guess. Havn't tried a sheild with the B-flow
( thats what I'm calling it from now on since I made it myself ) yet, but
when I do you'll get the results here. Bye
Brian 93 VR6
>
> >I noticed that the temperature rose only when the car was moving, or the
> >fan came on, makes sense to me. The filter is definetly getting more hot
> >air than it idealy should though. I will try to make a sheild or duct to
> >help direct more cool air to it. I'll let you know if anything works.
> >
> >
>
> Brian try the stock airbox and see what the temps are.
>
> **TT**
>
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Tue Jul 25 05:48 PDT 1995
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 1995 05:39:42 -0700
From: NSnyder@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com (Nick Snyder)
Subject: fresh air induction
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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Last night i put in a fresh air tube from the spoiler to the hole
were the charcol canister used to be, drilled holes in the plastic
piece directly under the bumper and presto....fresh air.
I am planning on moving the temp (air) sensor i just ran outta
time last night. I moved the canister in a horizontal position
on the flat area were the stock air box used to sit
(it's under and to the side of the P-flow) and straped it down
with a couple of BIG hose clamps and sheet metal screws.
It actually looks okay....if i could find a better place for the canister
i would move it.....any suggestions? Also does anyone know if
for some reason the charcol canister has to be mounted vertically?
Or is laying it down on it's side acceptable? Anyway the air coming
into the P-flow is much improved at speeds above 60mph...
it seems to pull a little stronger than it did.
NSnyder@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com
>>93 Corrado SLC<<
"Porsche performance at a VW price"
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
"It's better to go in slow and come out fast then to
go in fast and come out dead"
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 25 Jul 1995 09:35:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jan Vandenbrande
Subject: Re: smooth air intake
In-Reply-To: <199507241809.LAA26855@desiree.teleport.com>; from "Nick Snyder"
at Jul 24, 95 11:09 am
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> Someone was talking about the tube that goes from the M.A.S. to the T-body
> needing
> to be smooth....why not just put the one that comes on the GTI VR6....a
> friend of mine
> just bought one and the "tube" is MUCH smoother than my Corrado and it has
> all of the
> appropriate fittings and hoses that are molded into it? Any comments? I
> was really
> thinking about trying it. I have a P-flow so i don't have to worry about it
That probably was me...and I also suggested the VR6 GTI tube.
It'd be interesting to see if there is any noticable difference.
I'd speculate at higher rpms there may be some.
--
o ___|___ [\\] | Jan Vandenbrande jan@ug.eds.com
__0 /\0/ /-------\ _ | http://alicudi.usc.edu:80/~jan/
\<,_ O \\ (_________) .#/_\_. | "Aerodynamics are for people who
(_)/ (_) // [_] [_] |_(_)_| | cannot build engines" - Enzo Ferrari
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Date: Sat, 29 Jul 1995 16:47:53 -0400
From: UniqueVR6@aol.com
Subject: Re:Formula for hp from cfm?
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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Subj: Re:Formula for hp from cfm?
Date: 95-07-28 05:54:43 EDT
From: MarissaR78@aol.com
All thing s being equal 1cfm = 1.6hp (theoretical) and 1.44hp real world
estimate. These # are from the "Volkswagen water cooled, front drive
Performance Handbook". While this book is only on the A1 and A2 chassis VW's
it has served me well on many a VW, and to understand the reality of
performance mods.
The # are also for use when comparing INCREASES only, because who knows
what the pressure is inside your head, or manifold when on the bench vs. when
on the car.
In addition, consider this, just because you freed up the breathing in
the head, doesn't mean squat unless you have freed up ALL other restrictions
to flow atleast as much air in as the head can take, AND the exhaust can flow
the increased exhaust your making, out. YOu are only as powerful as the
weakest link, or in this case the most restrictive part of your intake.
I haven't discussed doin' up my head yet with any one who would know
anything about it, but lemmie know how it works for you, as I am highly
interested in doing it myself, I was thinking actually of doing a big-valve
setup.
***********************************************
Subj: Re:Formula for hp from cfm?
Date: 95-07-29 12:40:21 EDT
From: UniqueVR6@aol.com
Thanks for the info! I just wanted to get a rough estimate of potential
hp increase since the dyno readings, once they are completed, should give me
a better idea of actual, real-world power. Wondered if the bigger
displacement VR6 would alter the formula you gave (1.44 to 1.6) for the A1 &
A2?
Believe that the modified head by itself flowed 110 cfm, adding a
specially ported/polished intake manifold reduced that to 106 or so, which is
still excellent.
Don't have results for this head with the stock intake yet.
Currently the only reworked VR6 heads that I know of are ones from
European Import (mine), GTA (Oettinger?), and possibly an ABT version.
Techtonics is also working on one but it will not be cheap, estimated cost
$2000 (should be a really nice one)!
BTW, my new head does have bigger (43mm) coated steel intake valves - a
titanium version is available, but will obviously be more expensive with a
much longer waiting period for delivery. Also the compression ratio with the
new pistons is in the 11 to 11.5 range, which might render the use of 92
octane marginal...
***********************************************
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Date: Thu, 12 Oct 1995 12:23:18 -0400
From: TurboTim@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cool Air
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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In a message dated 95-10-12 11:03:23 EDT, you write:
>Why can't some of those fine minds in the aftermarket like Tim and Aaron
>come up with some sort of air box mod to continualy feed cool air. The
>VR6 seems to run best on cool days, or times of day. A P-Flo/ram air
>system is just what the doctor ordered.
VW already did it for us. ND's belief is that a K&N element in the stock box
is close to if not the same performance as the cone filters. Many people
enjoy the loudness of those and so to each their own. Since most of the
P-flows are not legal here in California we do not sell many and do not
install them except on the few CARB exempt models. When we tested James Sly's
Turbo Golf 3 we found less HP with the funnel filter and the noise was
annoying. James did not even install one on his GLX. Modified box with K&N
element instead. As to our GLX I did not want to mask the wonderful exhaust
note of our Borla system so we left it stock with the K&N element. Now as for
a ram air system we have seen one from Europe and it might be something to
try but another project for another day.
BTW - Received our turbo kit from Germany today. 1/2 page instructions with
GOOD LUCK written at the bottom. Great confidence builder. The packaging was
very poor ie..the boost gauge was throw in a bag with other metal parts and
got scratched. Makes me aware of how much better ND Turbo is when it comes to
instructions and packing. Anyways it looks pretty cool and we can already see
improvements we will make.
**TT**
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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 02:00:24 -0400
From: UniqueVR6@aol.com
Subject: Re: MAS screen removal update
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> >I have some news concerning the removal of the filter screens from the
> >Mass Airflow Sensor. According to one of the techs at the dealer (just
> >got back from training session), the dealers seem to be getting some VR6
> >equiped vehicles in for sevice that are running rich (causing drivablity
> >problems). The cars are all were modified and had the sensor screens
> >removed from the MAS. According to Bosch the screens are there not just
> >to keep grubby little fingers from damaging them, but they mix the air
> >entering the sensor. Supposedly the sensor does not get a correct reading
> >when the screens are removed.
I don't know if the following is relevant to the above reported problem,
but here's a copy of a post from EIP Tuning in response to someone's question
on the Car & Driver message forum on AOL:
"You may want to check the connection on both ends of the intake boot that
runs between the air mass sensor and the throttle body. We have seen a few
cars with a stumble at higher rpms that had their boots folded in so that
"false" or non metered air was causing the motor to die out...at higher rpms
this would take in a large amount of non-metered air causing a stall. Also
have your mass air sensor checked too as it can cause a stumble or stall if
not connected properly, or if faulty."
Edward
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From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: MAS screen removal update
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I have some news concerning the removal of the filter screens from the
Mass Airflow Sensor. According to one of the techs at the dealer (just
got back from training session), the dealers seem to be getting some VR6
equiped vehicles in for sevice that are running rich (causing drivablity
problems). The cars are all were modified and had the sensor screens
removed from the MAS. According to Bosch the screens are there not just
to keep grubby little fingers from damaging them, but they mix the air
entering the sensor. Supposedly the sensor does not get a correct reading
when the screens are removed. I have the screens removed from the MAS on
my car and have had no problems. I also read that only certain MAS
sensors (on BMWs, maybe later corrados) have the screen that mixes the
air, meaning that the screen on the intake side of the sensor is
different from the exiting screen. Both the screens on my MAS are the
same, so I'm not sure if it will get the rich running problem. Could
somone with a VR6 Corrado built after 11/92 (when mine was built) check
to see if the screens are different on your sensor? I'll also have my
friend check to see how many different sensors VW pu on the different
year cars. I Believe the sensor looks different on the 95 GTIs and GLXs
that I've looked at.
Brian 93 VR6
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sun Oct 22 07:47 PDT 1995
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Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 05:00:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Lawrence Wu
Subject: Re: MAS screen removal update
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>I have some news concerning the removal of the filter screens from the
>Mass Airflow Sensor. According to one of the techs at the dealer (just
>got back from training session), the dealers seem to be getting some VR6
>equiped vehicles in for sevice that are running rich (causing drivablity
>problems). The cars are all were modified and had the sensor screens
>removed from the MAS. According to Bosch the screens are there not just
>to keep grubby little fingers from damaging them, but they mix the air
>entering the sensor. Supposedly the sensor does not get a correct reading
>when the screens are removed. I have the screens removed from the MAS on
>my car and have had no problems. I also read that only certain MAS
>sensors (on BMWs, maybe later corrados) have the screen that mixes the
>air, meaning that the screen on the intake side of the sensor is
>different from the exiting screen. Both the screens on my MAS are the
>same, so I'm not sure if it will get the rich running problem. Could
>somone with a VR6 Corrado built after 11/92 (when mine was built) check
>to see if the screens are different on your sensor? I'll also have my
>friend check to see how many different sensors VW pu on the different
>year cars. I Believe the sensor looks different on the 95 GTIs and GLXs
>that I've looked at.
>Brian 93 VR6
My Corrado was built in 5/93, and the screens are identical. No problems
running without the screens. I honestly don't think our screens have anything
to do with the MAS readings. Then again, I'm running a chip, so I wouldn't
notice the car running rich as easily. Runs pretty smoothly. The K&N would
most do the job which the screen was doing. Possibly there would be slightly
lower pressure (Bernoulli's principle) behind the screen right at the sensor
If the screens were both put in place, there would be less air movement right
between the two screens. It would seem very plausible that the screens
actually allow a more accurate reading. Removing the screen, did not show any
negative effects, so conversly I doubt that putting it back would help
anything. Exactly what "drivability problems" are the technicians referring
to?
```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
Lawrence Wu VW Corrado VR6
LWU2@CSUpomona.edu Driver Found.
OetCorrado@aol.com
"In a world full of people, only
some want to fly, isn't that crazy?"
```````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Fri Sep 22 00:06 PDT 1995
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 22:04:28 +0200
From: gregc@eskimo.com (Greg Campbell)
Subject: Re: Air Box - more flow
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>Somone just asked on the location of the snorkel and filter?
I wasn't the person in question, but I got a pretty good response from Matt
Ridge. I performed the following proceedure with trouble. However, I
removed the entire air intake tube, not just the screen. And YES, my screen
was really clogged. Now, it makes a really cool sound at 3500 rpm and
above. I ordered my K&N stock air box filter from ND today. That should
add bit more power & more of that teriffic sound!
Good Luck
Greg Campbell
1992 SLC w/airbox mods
=============== Message Follows ======================
Originally From "lobo@nando.net (Matt Ridge)"
After reading the article in a past issue of EC, I decided to remove the air
filter box "prefilter" screen and tube from my VR6.
The article begins on page 52 of EC from July '95. The modifications are
done to a Jetta GLX and vary slightly for the Corrado. You will probably
need a medium length screwdriver to pry open the clips that hold the box
closed (this is actually the most difficult part of the procedure). Once
you get the top loose, unscrew the two screws that hold the airflow sensor
to the box top and slide the top off of the sensor. Now I had to remove a
10mm screw holding a A/C tube to the inside of the fender. With this screw
out, the tube can be moved out of the way to allow easier removal of the air
box top. After you get the top out of the car, remove the air filter and
you will see a oblong shaped fine wire mesh screen covering the air inlet.
This is the screen EC talks about, but it looks a lot different than the
pictures. To get at it, I removed the air entire air box by popping the two
rubber bands (actually two big O-rings) off of the hooks - be careful not to
let them drop into the engine area. With the box removed, you have to
remove the entire inlet tube from the box. I think it slides right out - I
can't remember. The screen is now accesible from all sides. My screen was
riveted in (3 or 4 places) and I did not have a drill handy so I pried and
basically ripped the rivets out with a screwdriver. I ended up pretty much
mangling the screen, so if you plan on putting it back in, you should drill
out the rivets. The box goes back together in reverse order.
The "snorkel" tube in the air box top is easily removed by hammering it out
(from the inside of the box out). I did both of these mods at the same time
so I don't know which one caused the majority of the power improvement.
Good luck - I think it is worth the time!
P.S. Two people that have also done this mod responded to my e-mail by
telling me that everything should be OK, but I probably want to replace the
air filter with a K&N or Amsoil one. I planned on this, but have not yet
done it.
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Tue Mar 12 07:02 PST 1996
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 09:59:43 -0500 (EST)
From: HEDIN@hq.RTIS-C.COM (Hedin, Andrew)
Subject: P-Flow
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References:
Status: RO
On March 12, Marisa9413 @ aol.com wrote:
>anyways..........can someone in here give some advantages and
disadvantages to a p-flow
I installed the P-flow system on my '90 G60. I like it for the following
reasons:
1) It added a nice intake 'growl', perhaps even louder than my exhaust.
2) It added a few more horsepower, yes I could feel the difference.
I don't like it for the following reason:
1) It is bit too loud for my taste. At highway speed, the sound can get a
bit bothersome at times.
Bottom line, worthwhile upgrade but be prepared for quite a bit more
intake sound. I'm not sure how the system is for the VR6, but on the G60,
the P-flow mounts directly to the supercharger and it really amplifies
the supercharger whine. I suspect that it would not be such a big problem
on a VR6.
Andrew Hedin (hedin@rtis-c.com)
1990 Yellow G60: OZ Corsa Rims, Neuspeed Strut Tower Brace, Autothority
Stage II, ISV Re-Route Kit, Gillet Exhaust, Brembo Rotors, 180 Degree Fan
Switch, 180 Degree Thermostat, P-Flo, Alpine/Polk/Advent
-------------------------
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Mon Mar 11 22:38 PST 1996
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 01:34:57 -0500
From: Vreihen@aol.com
Subject: Re: fuba... P-Flo
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Hello all... back to one of our favorite controversies, I'm afraid. I'll try
not to wear the carpet too thin.
This weekend I did an _informal_ test of the P-Flo vs the mesh-robbed stock
airbox, on a few of my most tread roads as well as on the highway. The
driving was done in the 2500-4500 range, and the stock box seemed a clear
winner in acceleration. This is with the stock (paper) air filter, as well.
But before that raises too many eyebrows, let me say that I have the VSR,
which makes my inlet tract much more dependent on the _momentum_ of the air,
rather than its volume, so the mass-speed product of the air needs be
maximized. The stock box has a tube inside which effectively lengthens the
air inlet tube by another 50 to 70%, through which the air can gain more
momentum than with the K&N P-Flo in which extra length is eliminated,
combined with the usual hot air argument (I mean that literally, not
figuratively!). I also didn't reach the upper rpms, where the K&N is
supposed to have the most noticeable gains (?).
The VSR may invalidate the test entirely, but for those of you who have
decided to go for mods stamped with "VW", the stock box is worth another try.
I'll be upgrading to a K&N panel filter soon, hopefully for more gains.
The newest of the "Flo" variety is the FlowTech (FloTech?) by AutoTech, used
by EIP on Edward's 3.1. It has a three or four inch tube which attaches
between it and the mass airflow meter, which should not only preserve air
momentum, but draw in slightly cooler air, due to increased distance between
it and the engine. It gives the same "satisfying" growl as the K&N, though.
It is slightly smaller in volume than the K&N version, with a conical taper.
I'm sure Rich had solid reasons for using it over the K&N. Whenever I can
blow ~$150, I'll try out the FlowTech.
I hope this helps, despite it's rampant subjectivity, and I'd like to hear
other's comparisons of the stock box w/ K&N panel, P-Flo, and FlowTech back
to back.
Don
'93, 27K
(and I can still hear the radio when I step on the gas!)
Marisa, the antenna, badges... unbelievable. I sympathize.
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Mar 13 07:13 PST 1996
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corrado-l@teleport.com; Tue, 12 Mar 1996 20:37:18 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 20:37:06 -0500
From: The Only True Cars Are Corrados
Subject: P-flow advantages and disadvantages
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Organization: Ecole des Hautes Etudes Commerciales de Montreal
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Marisa :
> anyways..........can someone in here give some advantages and disadvantages
> to a p-flow.......
Well, well, looks I'll tell you what I've learn from what other
owners told me.
Advantages : - Great sound, deeper, past 4000 rpm to get it.
- 5hp gain at around 7000 rpm.
- Eleminates all the restrictive things in the airbox
and even the airbox itself.
Disadvantages : - Sucks HOT air. Based on what Brian tested, on a 78F
day, the p-flow was sucking 120F!
To tell you exactly what he told me :
<<... they suck very hot air which can actually lead to hp loss. Edward (on
this list, 3.1) had his car dyno'd and the modified air box plus a K&N
replacment filter made more power everywhere but 7000rpm, that's where the
P-flow makes it's 5 hp more. otherwise it's always making less. Oettinger's
black C project (was in EC a couple year ago) used the modified airbox, they
know too, that the box is better.
I did my own test, on a 78F day, the p-flow was sucking 120 air! Not good.
I did this by moving the outside air temp sensor up to the p-flow and taping
it there. The box is best, plus it's much cheaper, as you only have to pay
about $40 US for the filter, the mods to the box are easy and free. >>
Sorry Brian if you didn't want me to write down what you told me, but I
think it's useful for everyone to know what you've tested.
According to me, you don't have to change the filter, but it's an
interesting replacement to do when your stock filter will die.
I always wanted a P-flow, but after reading that it sucks (is it
always like that? I can't tell.) hot air, hotter than the box, I did the
mods to the box myself and forgot completely the P-flow.
I don't want to blame (or is it to be flamed? How do you say that?) anyone
who has a p-flow, it's not dangerous... I don't think sucking hot air
will really be a VERY bad thing... But I haven't took the chances to use
one.
P-flow sounds better than a modified airbox, however.
Modif. airbox will give in the 3-4hp gain, I don't know where... high revs,
probably.
Frank
custom airbox, 182hp.
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Mar 13 09:54 PST 1996
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 11:48:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Kosloske
Subject: P-Flow in G60
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The consensus in the past was that the P-Flow was a waste of cash in the
G60, and could be dangerous. The restrictive airbox does 3 things,
channels cooler air into the intake, and helps prevent junk getting
sucked in the supercharger which would destroy it quickly, AND keeps the
noise level down. I've taken mine apart a few times to clean it out and
it seems like a very nice deisgn. The P-Flow is almost too open, it sits
in a bad spot to get cool air, unless you modify the intake a lot, and is
VERY noisy. I haven't heard one myself, but everyone who has heard one
says it's quite loud. I have heard the P-Flow on a VR6 and it's not loud
at all except over a certain RPM level where it starts to suck a lot of
air, but at normal RPM's it's pretty quiet. And, it has a longer intake
that puts the filter out to where it should be. Also, it looks pretty
cool, so I think it's a good investment for a VR6. Save the $130 or
whatever it costs for the G60 and spend it on something else like a upper
stress bar or something useful.
The air temp/density being sucked into the G60 does make a HUGE
difference. I can feel a significant loss of power on very hot, humid
days, and on very cool dry mornings, the car feels like it's got it's 2nd
wind. I've done a little work on trying to figure out a better way to
get cooler air into the flow, but it doesn't seem to be worth the effort.
Above all you have to remember to keep junk out of the intake, even if
it means restricting flow.
----------
From: owner-corrado-l[SMTP:owner-corrado-l@teleport.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 1996 1:15 PM
To: corrado-l
Subject: 3D model of Corrado
Does anyone know where I could get a 3D computer model of a corrado?
Like in autocad, 3DStudio, Lightwave, Corel 3D, etc. (whatever format)
OR
Anyone of you want to make one for me?
OR
Can we get the design files from VW you think?
Andy
--
--. \/ .----------#####**********] Corrado & GTI FUN-atic (Don't o
\o
--.\/\/.---G60----#####**********] forget to bike,ski,windsurf, ,-\
\--
---....-----------#####**********] sail) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca 0\-0
\/
See the Corrado WWW Page at: http://www.thepoint.net/~bwhite/corrado.html
\.
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Sun Mar 17 06:29 PST 1996
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 09:05:24 -0500
From: VoidSpirit@aol.com
Subject: my P-Flo Air intake temps
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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Thanks for all the quick responses. They support my findings too. I am
registering consistent 93 degree f readings cruising at 60 mph on a mild day.
Accelerate hard (like for passing, fighting your way thru blocked lanes) and
the temp rockets to 120 degrees within 1-2 minutes. I am guessing most of
that almost instantaneous heat rise would be from the exhaust manifold
heating up rather than the engine block per se? I recorded the temps using
the outside air temp probe by removing it from it's stock location and taping
it on the P-FLo. Also, my temps were recorded with the following
experiments in place to duct cooler air to the p -flo:
1 - added a thick abs plastic panel between the side of the engine and the
p-flo in an attempt to shroud the p-flo from the hot air around the engine.
2 - moved the carbon cannister out of the 3 3/4" hole it rests in and
temporarily remounted it underneath. I then removed the plastic panel under
the front left fender so that the P-flo could (in theory) have direct access
to outside air thru the
aforementioned large mounting hole.
Judging from everyone else's temps, It looks like I may have been able to
drop the temps slightly (93 degrees vs 100). Obviously removing the left
headlight would be the most effective but you can't drive around like 1-eyed
jack on public roads.
Next step will be to fabricate some cheesy air ram system consisting of a
scoop underneath the car/bumper connected to an air hose that connects to
that hole. Unfortunately the lower grill is not perforated between the
plastic ribbing on the far ends so you can't use that as the intake point. I
suppose you could make it perforated however. I suppose the bottom line is if
you can drop the temps from a consistent120 temp to about 78 degrees (an
"average day"), *what* have you gained in power vs a stock airbox?
VOidSpirit
"Send in the Probe"
Front Line Assembly
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Sat Mar 16 21:32 PST 1996
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 00:08:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: air intake temps for P-Flo filter needed
In-Reply-To: <960316195444_353367186@emout04.mail.aol.com>
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> can someone please repost the temps they recorded around the P-flo for a VR6?
This is from memory... on a 78(about 25C?) degree day, the P-flow was
sucking 120 (44C) air while driving at 30 - 50 mph.
>
>
I have a book that lists all kinds of gains/losses relating to
temperature, pressure, humidity, it gets crazy. Sooo... By looking at the
formulas I was losing roughly 5-6% of my power.
Brian 93 VR6
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Sat Mar 16 21:23 PST 1996
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 20:58:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Yuen
Subject: Re: air intake temps for P-Flo filter needed
In-Reply-To: <960316195444_353367186@emout04.mail.aol.com>
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I did the same experiment a few months ago. I took my air temp
sensor and taped it near the P-Flo. I don't remember the exact temps I
got but they were somewhere between 100 and 120 degrees.
Gary
On Sat, 16 Mar 1996 VoidSpirit@aol.com wrote:
> can someone please repost the temps they recorded around the P-flo for a VR6?
>
>
> also, can the engineers on this list give us the basic correlation between
> horsepower vs air intake temps. I understand that as the temperature of a
> given unit of air increases, the available oxygen atoms therein decrease,
> thus decreasing the combustion capabilities of that unit. I don't really need
> the formula, but a chart showing the changes from say, freezing to 150 would
> help determine if working to lower the intake temps would appreciably help.
> Voidspirit
> "We work hard, to see for real..."
> Sisters of Mercy
>
>
>
>
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Sat Mar 16 21:14 PST 1996
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 20:53:13 -0800
From: flyins@nwlink.com (FlyinS)
Subject: Re: air intake temps
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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>>From: VoidSpirit@aol.com
>Since intake temp has become such a "hot" topic lately (pun intended), I
>thought I'd re-post a question I'd asked several months ago. Back in my
>small-block chevy days, my buddies and I spent some time experimenting with
>water injection as a means to cool the intake charge. I have no hard data to
>back this up, but at the time we felt we were getting some positive results.
>Kind of like driving in a heavy fog: "just seems to run better". Anybody on
>the List ever try this?
>
>= Kevin Jay ('92 SLC, black/black, 63K, modified airbox w/ K&N)
>
> "... but on planet downsize, random despair becomes the default paradigm
> for all worker bees!" -- doonesbury
...................................
Well, on this subject, I remember my G60 having MUCH more hp on cool(40F)
foggy mornings...I know this was affected more than any other VW I've
had...I did some sprints with the stopwatch (I know not too accurate, just
for baseline stats) and the Corrado was consistently over a second faster
0-60mph on cool mornings than on even moderately warm afternoons
(70F)...it's that intercooler thing! It's been said that the special
intercooler on the A2 Rallye Golf and the rebuilt G60 were what made it the
beast it was! (reported anywhere from 250-400hp with 1.7L displacement)
On another note...the works Honda (I know, I know, don't flame its for the
tech discussion here) Grand Prix racebikes they have used water injection
in the exhaust to speed up the exhaust flow and help scavenge the cylinders
of exhaust which created a bigger vacuum in the cylinder, acting like
forced air induction on the inlet stroke!
............................................................................
Flyin'S 93 VFR750FP 95 Jetta GLX
Chip Sulcer Seattle, WA
I'm my own worst enemy in many ways!
............................................................................
See the all new Jetta GLX Homepage at:
http://nwlink.com/~flyins/jetta.html
............................................................................
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Sun Mar 17 17:09 PST 1996
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 19:43:59 -0500
From: UniqueVR6@aol.com
Subject: Re: my P-Flo Air intake temps
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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>I've also seen a ram air that's made for a Mustang. It may fit with some
>mods, cost is around $100.
Hmm, since this topic seems to have stirred up considerable interest here,
I'll repeat an earlier post of mine related to this subject (sorry for the
repitition):
1) Motronix Motorsport up in Ontario, Canada, has a ready-made cold air
induction kit for VR6s (& G60s?). I think it goes for less than US$100, the
only drawback is that it was designed for the stock airbox, not the P-Flo.
Not sure what the claimed dynoed hp gains are.
EIP, AMS and a couple of other tuners have also been thinking of marketing a
similar sort of device. Or with some ingenuity, those mechanically-inclined
may wish to save $ and construct their own, or just remove the passenger-side
headlamp for track applications...
2) An alternative to the P-Flo is AutoThority's FlowTech, which I currently
have installed, of which Don from the list wrote about:
<>
Seems to work really well in my car, even on hot summerlike days like the
ones we've recently been experiencing in California. Of course my car
probably has a bit more torque than the average 2.8...
Edward
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Mon Mar 25 11:16 PST 1996
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 12:47:16 -0600 (CST)
From: mark@idm.com (Mark Komosa)
Subject: Air intake Mods & HP curves
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
To: corrado-l@teleport.com
Reply-To: mark@idm.com (Mark Komosa)
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Hi All
Got a couple of questions/observations about the mods I have done to
my car already. After I installed the Q-chip, K&N, and Autolites, the car
seemed stronger above 4k rpm. I don't think the lower end gained much if
anything. Highway milage seemed to be limited to 24mpg.
I took out the snorkel out of the top of the air box. The
sound is interesting, don't know if I like it yet. It's more "sport" like,
but I kinda liked the sophisticated, quiet sound too. Does it do anything
for performance? It seemed pretty slugish at low end again, but it sounded
mean 8-). I think the highway mileage went down 1mpg.
So where is all that fuel going? Does that mean there is more air
going through the intake and the system adjusts by supplying more fuel? It
should produce more power in that case. Unless the mixture is all screwed
up and it may actually be worse.
After reading EC June 1995, where they upgrade their GLX with P-chip,
K&N, removed snorkel, and Euro throttle body, that last piece got me
interested since they said it flows %10 more wide open. This, supposedly
adds 4-6 road hp at 6.5-7k. Sounds pretty good, but what is the most
restrictive piece of the intake? If it's not the throttle body, you won't
see %10 increase inflow to the engine, right?
I also read something interesting in Greg Raven's book, about intake
manifolds. He was talking about the difference between the European and
US 16V GTI. The Euro one had higher hp output than US, partly because the
intake runners' diameter was 10mm larger than US (50 vs 40mm).
The diameter was decreased to move the hp peak down in rpm range, and
ultimately sacrafice peak hp. The reason why that happens is that th
velocity of air is increased with the smaller diameter runners, according
to Greg.
So by doing these mods, ie the air box modification and throttle body,
are we in effect increasing the hp output as well as moving the peak to a
higher rpm? Although, since the manifold size isn't changed and we have more
air available after the throttle body, shouldn't that produce even higher
intake elocity, almost like forced induction? Or does the engine "suck" as
much as it can through the manifold, and the "extra" air does nothing?
One more question, what's the effect of advancing the timing on the hp peak?
Does it move down or up in the rpm range? My guess is up, why?
And finally changed from the W210P to AVS, it's really nice. But I had a
nightmare that same night after seeing snow in the forecast. I was crusing
down a snowy road , hit the breaks and nothing, woke up before I saw what
I was going to crash into, too real!!!!
Mark
one mean sounding SLC in the garage!
P.S. Im all up for that Cyber Event, anybody else around Chicago, we
can park on lake front and take in the whole skyline! Sears tower should
make a good global land mark. I'd be willing to get this organized.
And if you have seen this messge before, sorry , but Im having email probs
from home and still believe that it never went out, so Im using work's mailer.
If it's otherwise , please let me know. At least I updated since it's original
version! (You can tell I've been trying to send it out ever since Cyber Event
came up)
+------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Mark Komosa Generator.. Oscillator... |
|mark@idm.com Make a circuit with me! |
+------------------------------------------------------------------+
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 21:49:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Yuen
Subject: Re: Pflow without my headlight in.
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Hi,
I made a cold air intake for my GLX the other day. I moved the
charcoal canister and then used a 2.25" plastic flexible tube that's
routed from the airdam to the P-Flo. Had to drill a hole in the air
dam. But I definitely notice a power increase. When I was driving to
work today, I wasn't pushing the car but just traveling the normal route
and noticed that going up the hill went a little faster. Definitely
worth the time that it took. All you gotta do is move the canister and
then route a tube. The end of the tube pointing towards the P-Flo is
just tie-wrapped to a hose right now so it's not a great install but I'll
fix it later.
Gary
On Mon, 25 Mar 1996, Ariff wrote:
> Today I removed my right headlight and the plastic cover for the backside of
> it to see if my SLC would feel any different. Well after driving
> conservatively to warm it up I started accelerating more aggresively.. I
> could notice a difference.. their seemed to be a little more power and the
> engine was right there ready for more after each shift (not like it isn't
> already, but just more so).. the car felt stronger.. of course half of this
> is probably my anticipation of more power kicking in.. but I do believe it
> was noticeable..
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Tue Mar 26 18:01 PST 1996
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Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 20:56:55 -0500
From: VoidSpirit@aol.com
Subject: P-Flo Air Temps lowered by 20-40 degrees at 70 MPH...
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well. i see from all the posts about air intakes my initial post started
quite a few projects. well great minds think alike, i say (and drive
corrados, heh).
Anyway, here's the scoop on my air intake project. I am trying to make this
as meaningful as I can by providing reasonably "hard" data such as before &
after figures.
Basically I rigged an airhose from the lower grille to the carbon cannister
hole. From what I have learned so far, shape, location, and internal diameter
of the hose makes all the difference, both in fit, safety, and effectiveness.
Anyway, I tested it tonight by cruising about a half hour on and off the
interstate.
Here are my findings.
Outside Temp: 74 degrees (taken 6" above road surface)
Oil Temp: 234 degrees
Water Temp: Approx 220 degrees
Lights and Fogs on: Yes (heat producers)
Average Speed: 65-70 MPH
Temp on Top of P-Flo: steady 78 degrees F
Temp readings were taken by tie-wrapping Outside Air Temp Sensor on top of
P-Flo.
Previous Temp Readings from the same spot without the air duct were 93-120
degrees, with outside air temps of 68-75 degrees.
Upon opening the hood after the freeway run and turning the engine off (with
the fan still running) I ran my hand around the P-Flo and felt the metal on
the left and underneath. The area was completely cool. I then felt for
radiant heat from the side of the engine next to the P-Flo. Yes, it was
there, but apparently the air intake had pumped enough cold air in to create
a cold pocket around the P-FLo. The only area of the P-Flo that was warm was
the extreme back of it on the side closest to the engine.
Apparent result: Intake temps have been dropped 22-40 degrees vs a stock
P-Flo config.
I'll let everyone interpret the value of this drop in temperature for
themselves.
Your mileage may vary. Email me for more details.
VoiDsPiRit
knowing doesn't mean so much...
-Sisters of Mercy, Some Kind Of Stranger.
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Mar 27 05:29 PST 1996
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 05:25:43 -0800
From: Nick Snyder
Subject: Fresh air....
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From: VoidSpirit@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 20:56:55 -0500
Subject: P-Flo Air Temps lowered by 20-40 degrees at 70 MPH...
Basically I rigged an airhose from the lower grille to the carbon cannister
hole. From what I have learned so far, shape, location, and internal diameter
of the hose makes all the difference, both in fit, safety, and effectiveness.
Not to be a "jerk" but I did this about 8-9 months ago AND posted this to
the group.
However I never did the test that VoidSpirit did. I moved the charcol
canister to the
far side of the OEM box space (nearest to the side of the engine) and used some
"flashing" to fabricate a bracket (just wrapped it around the canister) and used
some machine screws with washers to secure. Hasn't moved an inch since.
The top end is where the biggest difference is "felt". It pulls much
stonger than
with just the P-flo.
Later,
NSnyder@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com
>>93 Corrado SLC<<
"Porsche performance at a VW price"
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Fri May 24 22:43 PDT 1996
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Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 00:42:22 -0500
From: melesky@cyberramp.net
Subject: Fresh Air Duct Mod to My K&N
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Guten Tag Corrado Owners,
Well I spent a couple of hours doing this and it only cost me
about $15.00 dollars. I bought some plastics containing 3 sheets
measuring 6x12 and .5mm thick for $2.00 and some 2 1/2"Dx72"L fresh
air tubing at PetBoys for $12.00 and some change. I took the plastics
and cut it in several pieces to make a duct to catch air in which
attaches behind the grill underneath the front bumper. Then under the
hood I pulled the carbon canister out and drilled a series of holes
around the screw hole nearest the engine and the back of the car.
Once done I broke the piece out and filed down the rough edges and
took a small piece of rubber tubing 3/8"Dx2 1/2"L and cut one side
lengthwise and put it on the addition area that was just drilled and
filed to the existing Canister hole to provide a smooth surface as mot
to cut into the hoses to the canister. With this done I zipped tied
the carbon canister in the same vertical position but under the
platform it used to sit on and the hoses run through the add on area
to the original hole. Then I stuffed the hose with the air duct up
under the bottom of the front clip and pulled it into position and zip
tied it to the grill. Then brought the hose up through the Canisters
original hole and took lacing wire and laced it into position. Lastly
I drilled a new hole for my K&N bracket and placed it pointing toward
the shock tower/wheel well area. Looks almost proffesional if I say so
myself and if anyone has questions about this E-mail me direct or give
me a call at 817-488-4783. Tomorrow I'm going to break out the hair
dryer and see how much an how well the air flows through and post my
findings.
Jason 90 Red G60 Und.....Tchuss
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Thu Jul 18 09:32 PDT 1996
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 11:22:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: steven@neosoft.com
Subject: Re: 1Let's talk about that Air Box
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> Go with removing the Air Box and putting in a K&N cone filter. You'll love
the
> sound.
> Jeff '93 SLC
>I'm not sure how good that advice is.... It's my impression that
>changing the filter is good, but too much hot air enters the intake
>without the airbox (it was put there for a reason). Also, the sound you
>hear is a resonant frequency which may be preventing air from getting
>into the system (that's why there are those tubes on the box - to reduce
>resonance).
>If you do take out the airbox, you should put in an air ram to direct
>cold air onto the filter (the VR6, more than other water cooled VW
>engines, loves cold air)
>Oliver
People complain about hot air from the engine enters through K&N cone filters
and robs the car of power. People say a ram scoop should be used. Well, if you
want to cut a hole in your hood or pull out your right headlight--Go For It!!
But look how the car gets air with the stock air box--First there is that
plastic shield that covers the intake hole--a very good way to starve your
engine for air. Then if air does get in, its pulled from the small pocket
behind the headlight. This air is also hot because of its location near the
front of the intake manifold. Where is your air? Do I hear strangled car? It's
hot anyway. Then those tubes, well, most people modify their box and bang out
that tube anyway. On hard accleration, the spring loaded flap pops open to
allow more air into the engine. Where does that air come from? It's HOT coming
from the side near the serpentine belt. Anyway, when I put on my AMS Air Power
(AMS ver. of P-flow) the car ran a whole lot better. I had better gas
mileage(though small) and the car did feel nappier. Plus, Corrados always run
the best in cold air with or without the air box. The air is hot either way you
do it. I just think the cone gives the car more air to breathe.
My $100 speech. Jeff '93 SLC
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