CORRADO G60 POWER UPGRADES
==========================
Last update: July 25, 1995: Split into G60, GTI & VR6 archives.
I collected a bunch of info on engine power upgrades for the
US versions of the 1990-1992 Corrado G60.
The power upgrades for the SLC and other cars are now stored in another
archive..
In the NA, the only car available with a G60 equiped engine
is the Corrado. In other parts of the world, a Passat G60, a
Golf G60 and a Polo G40 are also available.
VW Motor Sport also makes a G70, available for an outrageous price.
It is unclear whether the mods described here will directly
work for the other cars. The principle will be the same, but
the parts/ECU may be different.
The main problem with the G60 Corrado is its weak low end,
which most of these upgrades address.
I have also included personal impressions of these upgrades.
This is not meant as an advertisement. I have NO affiliation
with any of the listed sources.
I also included items from a posting by:
tpaquette@ita.lgc.com (Trevor Paquette(Contract))
See also G60_Chip_Specs, Performance FAQ, GTI_Power_Upgrades,
VR6_Power_Upgrades, Wired_Hotrod, Intake_Mods, for more info.
jan@ug.eds.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------
HOW THE CHIP WORKS (G60 & VR6)
==============================
There are several shops that sell performance upgrades in the US
(and probably Europe as well).
One is by AutoThority (AT, in VA) the other by Automotive Perf. Systems
(APS, in CA).
They both offer roughly the same packages, each of which boost
the power, though they use slightly different methods.
AutoThority also sells its chips (for less) thru AutoTech (CA)
and APS thru PlainWrap (for less) and others.
Note, there are also other chips available, such as from Advanced
Motor Sport solutions and Superchips. However, I have virtually
no testimonials about either of these, I cannot comment on their
efficacy.
Essentially what the chips do is to "recurve" the ignition
curves and fuel maps.
According to an article in Wired magazine, the German chips
are generally programmed for smooth city driving while more
aggressive at the top end.
(see http://www.wired.com/Etext/2.05/features/silicon.hot.rod.html)
By advancing the ignition up to knock point you increase
power, most notably low end torque.
The result is ca 20% more low end torque and 10% more max power.
The penalty is that you have to use high octane gas, i.e.,
92 US CLC Octane (R+M/2).
Note that there is quite a debate now which chip is better.
According to a few sources, the AT chips are more delicately
tuned, while the APS chips are less radical.
APS also uses the same chip for their Stage II system while
AT offers different chips for each application.
AT also claims that they tune their chips along the entire range,
while APS concentrates more on the top end.
See the torque curves below for a comparison.
One of the things to keep in mind is that the chips are upgraded
from time to time and some of the initial comments may not be
true anymore...
Another thing to keep in mind is that the chips are not interchangeable
with other cars or even between model years. The maps are the same,
but the microcode in the chips are different.
HOW THE G60 PULLEY WORKS
========================
The smaller G60 pulley makes the supercharger spin faster,
meaning that it will pump more air & gas mixture into your cylinders,
and therefore providing more power.
According to Aaron, both the APS & AutoThority pulley will spin
the G60 at around 13000 at the stock redline which is within
factory specifications. He recommended not to go any higher.
The downside is that the supercharger spins faster and therefore
more likely to wear out sooner.
However, here in the USA & Canada, speeds are limited to 65 mph
or 100 kmh, so generally people do not run at German autobahn
speeds for a long time.
Since the G60 is made to run at German autobahn speeds it is
therefore reasonably "safe" to make it spin faster for the
slower driving habbits in the US.
All pulley upgrades from reputable companies however ensure that
you remain within factory specs at maximum engine speed
(the original pulley only spins the G60 at 70% of its max).
You CAN buy smaller pulleys without the chips and the upgraded
fuel regulators.
This is a BAD idea because it causes the engine to run too lean
which apparently may damage them (don't ask me why).
Here is a note by Joe Funk (not Tim) from ND on this subject:
-------------
From: New Dimensions
Left by: TIM HILDABRAND Replied # 129
Sent to: VANDENBRANDE Status: Public
Topic: AMS & G60 Woes Rcvd: 12-03-94, 16:56
>Stuff about AMS & VR6 notes deleted, see the VR6 archives<
As for G-60 performance package the neuspeed pulley is the
proper size for reliability and performance it spins in the
factory 13,000 range. Autotechs kit is Autothority's kit the
pulley is a copy of the Neuspeed size. We have dyno tested a
lot of G-60 packages, we only sell the Neuspeed package it works
great and it is legal. As for the G-60 cat failures we have seen
4 fail 3 were stock car just barely under the 70,000 mile
warrantee the last failure was a 88,000 mile car with Neuspeed
everything this one was out of warrantee , boy sure hard to
blame Neuspeed when the only failure we have seen out last the
stock cars. Cat failure are highest in 1.8 16v golf and Jetta's
. G-60 supercharger failures, we
are about to replace our first one next month the car has
80,000 miles on it and has been Neuspeed stg2 since new. The
blower had an extra small pulley (2.0 pulley) for a limited
time and was over revved to end it's quite life , also was been
running NOS like a bad drug habit. I get lots of calls for G-60
units but most are for used ones that failed with stock pulleys
in the 70 -80k range.
Joe Funk
-------------
HOW THE G60 CAM WORKS
=====================
The CAM upgrade provides a bit more overlap (I think) and lift
which benefits mostly the upper end.
OVERVIEW: G60
=============
Autothority claims the following for his kits [From Chuck Actor]:
(All data and prices subject to change, no guarantee that any of this
is correct).
Stage I: Just a chip.
175 HP for $375
CARB (EPA) approved, so I guess they don't pollute that much.
Stage II: Different chip, ~68 mm blower pulley and Bosch high pressure
fuel regulator 0 280 160 263.
201 HP for $595
Stage III: As II (though different) & a CAM
217 HP for $795
Note that you can buy the CAM separately for about 100$ from AutoTech,
and it has virtually the same specs as the more pricey APS one.
Note from Jan: I kind-a dispute the above figures...
Stage I = 20% more torque at 2000 rpm (!!!), 11 more peak Hp.
Stage II= 175 Hp peak.
Autothority will refund you the difference in $$$ if you upgrade
from Stage I to Stage II, after you send in the original chip.
APS claims to have the following:
PChip: Chip swap
+11Hp for 250US$
CARB approved
Stage 2: Chip swap (same as the above), smaller pulley, thermostat
& muffler
190Hp at 595 US$
CARB approved
G60 CAM: A performance CAM that'll add more power at the top end.
199US$
CARB approved
See couple of the past issues of EuroCar (=VW&P). There are
several articles + installations there, or call the above places, & they'll
fax/send you the specs.
Which kit is better? Hard to say. Some say that the APS method is more
driveable but less power and noisier [ND, Hamill], while others
prefere the AT set up [Ron Wood].
After reading the Bosch FI handbook, AT seems to follow the text
almost to the letter.
Other recommended upgrades are:
Use a K&N filter and remove the "funnel tube" in the air box because
it restrict air flow.
(it slides right out the front of the air box, after you take the whole
box out first).
I [Jan] removed the funnel, the car seemed a tad more responsive BUT also
made the G60 wailing noise alot more apparent.
As you rev up to 3500 you get an eerie and loud woooOOOOOOUUUUUUOOOOooo.
I put the funnel back in.
Note that the later G60s are "tricked out" a whole lot more
(according to Mike Potter a Timmons VW in Long Beach) and produce about 10%
more power than their earlier versions (he tested both at APS's
dyno).
Among the changes are a larger crank pulley, effectively spinning
the G60 and all other things faster!
TORQUE CURVES
=============
The following data was inferred from the torque graphs supplied by
AutoThority (yes, I just eye-balled the values, but the resulting graphs
are fairly close to theirs).
The data is in ft/lbs, and it show, (US) G60 Stock, Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3,
and SLC Stock, SLC + AT Chip (SAT) and SLC + APS (SAP).
Note that I have no idea on the accuracy (or reliability)
of any of these measurements.
RPM G60 AA1 AA2 AA3 SLC SAT SAP
1000 97 104 121
1500 117 124 147 147
2000 130 137 168 170 158
2500 140 147 182 190 161
3000 149 160 195 201 171 172 167
3500 157 165 197 204 183 186 187
4000 154 166 207 211 196 199 188
4500 156 162 200 205 197 203 208
5000 135 156 195 200 191 202 193
5500 135 145 175 195 185 188 180
6000 125 131 132 155 166 169 167
6500 106 125 142
Using some smoothing, interpolation & making up some points,
I got the following curves:
G60: Torque = 48.127 + 5.57E-2 x RPM - 7.19E-6 x RPM^2
AA1: Torque = 52.964 + 5.76E-2 x RPM - 7.42E-6 x RPM^2
AA2: Torque = 37.879 + 9.03E-2 x RPM - 1.22E-5 x RPM^2
AA3: Torque = 32.821 + 9.23E-2 x RPM - 1.19E-5 x RPM^2
SLC: Torque = 63.750 + 4.43E-2 x RPM - 1.62E-7 x RPM^2 - 7.21E-10 x RPM^3
SAT: Torque = 68.374 + 3.55E-2 x RPM + 3.68E-6 x RPM^2 - 1.12E-9 x RPM^3
All the data fitted with 96% or better Pierson Correlation Coeff.
(Better fit with 3rd degree equation)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
IMPRESSIONS
===========
AT STAGE I (G60)
================
From jan@ug.eds.com:
I have Autotech's Stage 1 chip, and am quite happy with it.
The car feels alot better at the low end, and pulls almost frighteningly
at freeway speeds [Caveat: After driving an SLC, it's still
quite a way off]
I used Stage 1 because the car is still in warrantee, and it's
an easy and almost invisible (to a mechanic) change.
Added Benefit: My gas mileage actually improved a bit because
I can stay in lower gears longer.
If there is one upgrade to get, this is it.
Jan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado + AutoThority 1 Chip
From: borman@Metaphor.COM (Tom Borman)
Date: 10 Dec 91 01:34:02 GMT
In article <1991Dec5.132252.1@dev7.mdcbbs.com>, jan@dev7.mdcbbs.com writes:
|> I installed the Autothority stage one chip in my Corrado a couple
|> of days ago. The chip modifies the ignition and fuel map
|> to take advantage of 92 octane gas, thereby giving the
|> car a 20% increase in low end torque, and about a 10% increase
|> in top end power.
I've been considering a chip modification like this and would
appreciate opinions on this and other, similar products. I understand
a company called Neuspeed has a chip modification available
for Corrados.
Does anyone have experience with that product to share? I'm likely
to wind up with one or the other and would like some comparison
(even if subjective and second-hand) before I plunk down my money.
Also....
|>
|> Installation was straightforward, but not really easy.
|> It's a very tight fit to get the ECU out and back into
|> to the car, but patience works.
|>
Any other (more specific) hints and gotchas?
|> The very low end (1000 rpm) is a little bit better, but
|> soon above that, power comes on much quicker than before.
|> At medium range, e.g. highway range (the car turns ~2500 rpm
|> at 55mph) throttle responce has improved alot.
|> The high end is scary (my wife drove it and
|> commented "this is dangerous").
|>
Is there any change to the maximum speed imposed by the rev-limiter?
Is the rev-limiter less abrupt in its behavior?
|> On the down side, I can see why VW opted with the "detuned"
|> version, and why they think 160 Hp is about the limit on FWD.
|> From a standing start, the wheels spin, steering is a bit
|> of a handful because of it. 4WD or traction control is
|> definately needed.
|>
Do you experience torque-steer? In what way does the steering
become a handful?
|> So far, I am happy with the swap.
|> The low end was really bothering me.
|>
|> Jan
|>
|> jan@lipari.usc.edu
|> vandenbrande@fshpp1.mdcbbs.com
|> jan@dev7.mdcbbs.com being phased out!
Tom Borman BMW R100RS,R100T VW Corrado
(borman@twisted.metaphor.com {...}!decwrl!metaphor!borman)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Hot Corrados
From: jhamill@bbn.com (John Hamill)
Date: 29 Jul 91 14:55:16 GMT
!explain why it well down on torque compared with the equivalent Golf.
!We only have the 16V & G60 versions of the Corrado here. There is no
!basic 8V version, unlike the truly pathetic Calibra - maybe there
!should be ? BTW, I've seen ads in the UK for G60 mods giving 195bhp
!by a chip change, for c.300 pounds. Other current mods include smaller
!G-lader pulley & uprated bearings to increase pressure (it spins
The Neuspeed kit brings the G-60 up to 185 hp through the use
of exhaust modifications, smaller supercharger pulley, and a micro-fueler
addition to the fuel-injection. They also include a 180 deg thermostat and
fan switch. Seems like a pretty complete kit. I don't think I would want to
take the G-lader apart to upgrade the bearings. Neuspeed seems to feel they
aren't pushing the supercharger into the danger zone with their kit.
Seems as though the Corrado would be a waste of car with the basic
8v motor. I think a 2.0 liter 16v would be viable if VW brought this motor
up in power a bit more. I would think they could comfortably get 150-170hp
without the use of superchargers etc. Oh well, the VR6 is here now....
John
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado + AutoThority 1 Chip
From: karen@brahms.amd.com (Karen Black)
Date: 8 Dec 91 11:29:06 GMT
In article <1991Dec5.132252.1@dev7.mdcbbs.com> jan@dev7.mdcbbs.com writes:
>One of the things I had not counted on was that the ECU
>screws and nuts are marked with paint.
>Naturally, opening the unit breaks those seals, probably
>voiding warrantee. I am currently looking for a paint that
>will match it. (It's glossy reddish brown paint, and the
>only thing that I have found that matches it closely is
>body primer -- except that's a dull finish).
>Any suggestions?
What you describe sounds like a product called Glyptol. It is
painted onto potentiometers and other adjustable electronic parts
so the technician can tell if someone's been fiddling with the
unit. You should be able to get it at better electronic shops.
By the way, acetone thins it.
Karen Black
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado Power Enhancements
From: finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Date: 31 Jul 91 15:20:52 GMT
In article <1991Jul31.124948.2635@uw.com>, dnanian@uw.com (Dave Nanian) writes:
|>
|> Anyway, the timing and injection stuff can be modified by purchasing a new
|> Digifant (Bosch) chip from Autothority in Virginia. Although it requires 92
|> octane gasoline, it does improve the performance of the engine -- and they've
|> reworked the throttle curve a bit to make it "feel" peppier.
|>
Does anyone know if a "chip-swap" option is available for the GLI/GTI?
I know Dinan Engineering was working on one, but I haven`t heard anything
lately. Is there any other manufacturer that currently has one available?
Anybody have any experience/opinions about performance enhancement achieved
by a simple chip change?
Kenneth finnegan@navo.navy.mil
`````````````````````````````````````````'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''`````````````````````````````````````````
P.S.-> Route flames to 127.0.0.1
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado Power Enhancements
From: alyoon@tove.cs.umd.edu (Aloysius Yoon)
Date: 8 Aug 91 14:00:33 GMT
>
>Does anyone know if a "chip-swap" option is available for the GLI/GTI?
>I know Dinan Engineering was working on one, but I haven`t heard anything
>lately. Is there any other manufacturer that currently has one available?
>Anybody have any experience/opinions about performance enhancement achieved
>by a simple chip change?
>
Once again, I hate to sound like Autothority salesman, but they are working
on one now. But it's on their low prority list. Our last VW club meeting
was held there, and they gave us the tour of their place, and explained
to us what they were doing. It was very interesting.
--Al
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 15:31:15 GMT
From: JFIGURA@hcs.ca
Subject: G60 chip
Hi Trevor,
My name is Jurgen, I thought I'd mail direct since I can't seem to post. I
have a '90 G60 and put the auto-thority stage-I chip in this summer. So far I
have had absolutely nothing but grins from this product. A fellow I work with
has an identical car to mine (sans chip) so he keeps me honest as to my
perceived gain in performance. The biggest single improvement is bottom end
torque and the higher rev limiter allows for nice 6500rpm shifts (I haven't
tested the 7500 limit). Needless to say I can beat the stock Corrado every
time. The only thing it's costing me so far is a little more fuel consumption.
I had originally considered getting the stage-II but was scared off by one of
the VW shops, which has seen two G60's with blown motors due to the Neuspeed
stage-II kit which uses the same smaller super charger pulley. I think the
stage-II kit's just creates too much boost at high rpm to keep the motor
reliable, then again I have no idea just how hard those guys were pushing it.
I purchased the Autothority chip for $250 and installed it myself in 1/2 hr,
probably the cheapest and easiest performance mod on the market (IMHO).
Jurgen Figura Health Care Systems
jfigura@hcs.ca Richmond, BC, Canada
(604) 244-3211
"For-a-fig-newton"
<<<< standard disclaimer here >>>>
Name : Trevor Paquette | Landmark/ITA | _\___ Fahrvergnuegen
Email: tpaquette@ita.lgc.com | Calgary, Alberta, Canada | / \____
Visitor from CyberSpace | (403) 269-4669 |/ G60 \
Renegade of Virtual Reality | #include |\-O------O--/
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P-CHIP (G60)
============
Date: 20 Jan 93 12:21:47 EST (Wed)
Subject: G60 chips
From: C Hapeman
I looked into things a couple of months ago. Neuspeed was cheaper at $250,
AutoAuthority was $325, if I remember. I called both companies up: Neuspeed
appeared very arrogant on the phone and AutoAthority was nice. Asking for
brochures on the product, Neuspeed said our's is best just talk to those who
use us, AutoAuthority sent a letter with estimated hp and torque increases etc.
You can find their numbers in any issue of European Car.
AutoAuthority offers an upgrade policy, if you buy Stage I and later purchase
stage II you can return Stage I for a rebate thing. I would look closely
before going with Stage II, the G-Pully change is somewhat drastic and may
effect long term engine wear. I believe AutoAuthority also has a 30 day money
back guarantee, not sure about Neuspeed.
Stage I basically changes the gas/air mixture and some other twiks, they demand
that you run on only 92 or 93 and higher octane gas. I believe this is way VW
didn't put the changes in the stock car, they didn't want G60's dieing at 70K
because drivers were trying to get by with cheaper gas. Some people I talked
to said if you already use the right gas go with the upgraded chip, it will
make the car run cleaner and all in all be better for the car.
As a conclusion I couldn't get a feel for which companies' chips were better.
They do basically the same thing so my bet is they are for all intensive
purposes the same. BTW, I'm waiting for the spring and will get the
AutoAuthority Stage I and test it out, if the change is not what I want I'll
give it back within the 30 day limit.
Please let me know what you find or get back to me with further questions.
CJ Hapeman
cjh@garage.att.com
AT STAGE II (G60)
=================
Eventhough I am the most recent person to install Stage II and most of the
messages here are chronologically, I decided to put this one up front
because it includes installation hints:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jan@camhpp12.ug.eds.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [W] Corrado Stage II (AA)
Well, I finally got around to installing an AA Stage II kit
on my Corrado G60.
The procedure was relatively simple, I did not need any special
tools.
I first did the pulley, figuring this would be the worst.
First I removed the air filter box w/o any problems.
Then I loosened the G60 pulley bolt by giving my wrench a
slight tap. The inertia of the belt kept the pulley from moving.
Later I discovered that the original pulley had two holes
on the inner flange, presumably to immobilize it.
Next came the belt.
VW uses a special tool that looks like a squarish version of a
small C-clamp to compress the alternator pulley to release
tension on the serpentine belt.
I used a 18inch adjustable C-clamp on a slightly different location
without any problems.
First remove the belt from the idler pulley and then you can pull it
off the G60 pulley.
To remove the pulley, I gently used a flat crow bar to slide it off.
The new pulley did not fit at first because of the coating on the
hole. I used some sandpaper to clean it out and coated it with oil.
Next I probably made a mistake but I had to tap the pulley with a
rubber hammer onto the G60 axle.
It may be unhealthy for those bearings...next time use a long
screw to simple press it in.
The final 1/2" or so I used the original screw to press the pulley
in.
I used a very small dab of loctite on the bolt to make sure it
wont fly off.
Then I reinstalled the belt.
The fuel regulator was next. It's on the passenger side of the
FI rail. Two screws, two tubes is all it takes. Some fuel leaked
out, so be careful.
The new one looks exactly like the original.
Then finally came the chip. That's easy, and I have done it a couple
times by now.
The whole process took me about 2 hours of steady work, 1/2 of which
is spent with the ECU.
Next came the test drive, after making sure that no fuel was spraying
all over the place.
The car has gained significant power...
The low end is very improved, not quite like the VR6 but almost.
Midrange is about the same as the VR6, and the top end is
feels more than the VR6.
However, that's not all that good for several reasons.
First of all, I think it's too much power for FWD w/o traction control.
When accelating in first (from a coast) the wheels will just
start spinning around 4000 rpms. Same with 2nd gear (and I am
not talking about popping the clutch at high revs).
The second problem is noise.
The G60 drone is alot more noticable. At lower rpms
it's just a low VVVVVOOOOO, at high rpms it's more like
an F15 taking of.
It makes you want to avoid the higher rpms!
On the other hand, I end up staying in lower gears longer
because there is so much more pull.
What I used to do in one gear I can now do in the next
higher (stay in 3 rd instead of switching to 2nd).
So to get the same effect as before you do not have to rev the engine
as much.
Before the installation, pulling in 5th from 60 to 80 mph took
about 9.9 secs, now about 8.5 secs.
I did not get a chance to measure the 3rd gear time from
40-60 (Peter! was about 4.6 +/-.15 stock) because I dropped the
stopwatch between the seats.
I do get significant variances in these measurements though...
As far as engine temp, normal driving did not seem to have affected
it all that much.
Consumption seems a bit down (1 or 2 mpg) wrt Stage I, but then you also tend
to use the available power more readily (which probably dumps
a ton fuel).
All in all, it did make the car more responsive, though noisier.
Subject: Re: [W] Corrado Stage II (AA)
In article tpaquette@ita.lgc.com writes:
>jan@camhpp12.ug.eds.com (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:
>
>> Well, I finally got around to installing an AA Stage II kit
>> on my Corrado G60.
>
> .. procedures deleted...
>
>> The car has gained significant power...
>> The low end is very improved, not quite like the VR6 but almost.
>
> But the question is...
> Was it worth it??
Worth is cost vs benefit.
Let me first answere the cost:
> What was the cost??
I was previously driving a Stage I kit, and the upgrade only cost 150
US$ WITH tax because of the sale at AutoTech.
So I am certainly willing to experiment for 150US$.
The benefit is a much more driveable and powerful car, actually,
it's a bit too powerful.
It's also more noisy, which is a bit annoying, and I am a bit concerned
at higher rpms. It also uses more gas and provides the opportunity
to really suck up alot of gas, though on my sedate commute on
the highway last night (except for a couple of spurts), I was
getting 29 mpg @ 65-70mph. If you drive like a bat out of hell,
you get closer to 19 mpg.
All changes are easy to do, and easily reversable.
The car now produces my former stock peak torque value around 2000 rpms
(was 4000 rpms), so there is no need to keep the revs up as high
as before.
The new torque peak still occurs around 4000 rpms, but 210 or so
ft/lbs vs ~160.
This all means alot less footwork in the traditional LA yo-yo type of
traffic.
Both Stage I & II are smoother and more gradual in power
delivery than the stock chip (the stock chip has several small
dips in torque output).
So to answere your question whether it was worth it...it's
really too early.
I am not 100% satisfied as yet. Just would like to reduce the noise
a bit. Perhaps Dynamat would help.
Before you go out and buy one of these upgrades, several people
(Chris Lagatuta at New Dimensions, John Hamlin) have commented that the
APS kit is better and more drivable though it produces less power.
That kit is however alot more invasive as more hardware changes
are needed (thermostat, couple switches, exhaust, etc.).
The AA mods look totally stock.
If you are thinking of an SLC vs a G60 + kit, the SLC still wins
easily.
> Could we periodic updates from you on this as well??
Sure.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> I just saw your second response to Trevor.
>
> I'd still be interested in hearing your thoughts on
> Stage I vs. Stage II though (i.e. knowing what you do now, would you go
> right to Stage II, or stay with Stage I for day to day driveability...)
>
> -Jeff
I am debating this myself right now...
If it weren't for the increased noise and vibrations I'd probably
stay with Stage II.
However, because of those issues, I am not sure at this point.
The high end is almost scary...almost uncontrollable.
Perhaps the APS set up is better, I'll see if I can negotiate
something with them.
The car is alot more drivable with Stage II, the low end is
alot better than the Stage I.
Stage I is a definite improvement over the stock chips,
though still a bit lacking in low end, and the
Stock chip is absolutely a bear to drive after S I.
I'd say start with Stage I, that's an absolute minimum...
Besides, you get a full refund with both places
(AA & APS) when you upgrade to S II or III.
The problem is that my wife has an SLC, and going between the two
(before SII) is a big jump...I often forget what car I am in
and sometimes want to do things I can do in the SLC but not in the
G60. Still, the SLC is by far the better car. If VW ever decides
to drop the VR6 into the new Cabr. I may get that instead.
The new cab is absolutely adorable (I was involved in a pre-production
evaluation).
--
Jan Vandenbrande
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Autothority Stage II
From: jhamill@bbn.com (John Hamill)
Date: 7 May 92 15:16:37 GMT
In article <1992May7.023318.14947@news.cs.brandeis.edu> st883787@pip.cc.brandeis.edu writes:
>I'm getting a 90 Corrado in the next week, and would like to know the
>differance between the Stage I kit and the Stage II kit. Stage I is just a
>chip right? What is stage II, does it completely destroy your warranty?
>Someone posted that Stage II gives a 7.4 sec 0-60 time, what does Stage I
>do for 0-60? Any and all info appreciated.
Stage I is a chip upgrade, AutoThority's Stage II is a smaller
G-60 pulley, high pressure fuel regulator, and chip. Neuspeed's Stage II
is a pulley, Gillet exhaust, fuel enrichment system, and lower temp
fan switch and thermostat. Neuspeed also has a chip upgrade, called the
P-chip.
Stage I from either company gives better driveability with an
average 5.5 hp gain. It won't make that much 0-60 difference. Stage II
provides dramatic differences in acceleration and response, and could
conceivably wreck your warrenty if you blow the motor. I have found
that the engine seems to handle the extra power rather effortlessly,
with no radical behavior differences or temperature anomalies.
jh
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 92 10:45:23 -0500
From: lll-winken!uwm!bbn!spca.bbn.com!jhamill@decwrl
Subject: Re: Corrado P-chip
I have heard of knock problems also with
the AutoThority Stage II. I have also heard of problems with the Neuspeed
Stage II, things like unburnt fuel coming out in flames from the tailpipe
when deccelerating. It's hard to know who to believe. The Neuspeed kit
fools the the computer into thinking it's in a cold start mode,
which will deliver more fuel but seems hokey. I think the chip is the
better approach. I also plan on doing the cam, and the AutoThority folks
said they would custom tune my chip for it. They also have exhaust and
their own cam design coming in the future. I should have the kit installed
next weekend, then I'll have firsthand knowledge of what the heck this
thing is going to do to my engine (hopefully not blow it up). If it seems
dissapointing I can always return it in 30 days.
One thing I am really itching to do is upgrade the motor to
a 2 liter. That would erradicate all torque deficiency in one fell swoop.
It would cost some bucks though, but I would still be way under what a
new VR6 Corrado goes for.
John
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: SLC Corrado review (again)
From: doug@ulysses.att.com (G. Douglas Humphrey[drew])
Date: 8 May 92 21:05:31 GMT
In reply to jhamill@BBN.COM (John Hamill):
|> I think an all out race between a SLC and Stage II equipped
|>G-60 would be an interesting one, I would probably also need a
|>mild cam to keep the power up above 5000rpm, then I might be
|>able to beat it. But I would take the sweet sound of the SLC over
|>my droning supercharger anyday. Also, to anyone considering doing
|>the Stage II conversion, keep in mind that since you are installing
|>a smaller pulley on the supercharger, the droning sound gets even
|>louder.
|>
|>jh
I would disagree with John. I have a G-60 w/an AT Stage II kit and I would
tell you that it emits a much more aggressive tone when you put your foot down.
When the stock G-60 used to sound a bit strained the AT II "growls".
I would encourage EVERYONE with a G-60 to upgrade to the AutoThority Stage II
kit. I have seen no drop in MPG or rise in oil consumption. I have found that
I buy more gas because I love to drive the car. My smile has gotten twice as
big too. I would say that the only adverse affect of getting this kit is that
my wallet is $575 lighter (plus installation costs). Do it!
While I'm at it I'll plug the Neuspeed 25mm front sway bar.
It fixes the body roll of the stock G-60 and shows you what the
definition of "cornering power" is!
I will admit to lusting after the shifter and the revised spring &
bushing rates of the VR6 Corrado...
+------------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
| G. Douglas Humphrey | Internet Email: doug@ulysses.att.com |
| AT&T Bell Laboratories | UUnet Email: ..!uunet!ulysses!doug |
| 600 Mountain Avenue, MH7B511 | Office Phone: (908)582-6473 |
| Murray Hill, New Jersey 07974 | Office FAX: (908)582-2456 |
+------------------------------------+----------------------------------------+
| Imagination is more important than knowledge -Albert Einstein |
| Imagination is the one weapon in the war against reality -Jules de Gaultier |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Date: Wed, 13 May 92 12:31:54 EDT
From: ulysses.ATT.COM!doug@ATT
Subject: Re: SLC Corrado review (again)
>From att!MDCBBS.COM!jan Tue, 12 May 1992 00:41 PDT
>From: Jan Vandenbrande
>> My Words(Doug Humphrey):
>>I would encourage EVERYONE with a G-60 to upgrade to the AutoThority Stage II
kit.
>>I have seen no drop in MPG or rise in oil consumption.
>Yeah, I have the AT I, which can be exchanged + some $$ for AT II.
>I'll wait till my warrantee runs out.
>I am a bit concerned with the rumored knock problem of the AT II &
>increased wear.
>Any comments?
My car does not knock. If I put shit gas in it I'd bet it would though! The wear
issue
is a bit tougher to quantify. Every production engine is under-stressed for long
evity
and the Germans tend to build stout plants in the first place. I know that its a
tiny
little 1.8L four but it has a long tradition of durability. Remember that this e
ngine
is built to be sold worldwide and we have much nicer roads & more availability t
o
parts, service, and vital care products than in most countries. It's actually a
tribute
to this little engine's stoutness that it could be super-charged at all!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado Power Enhancements, was VW in EnglanD
From: alyoon@tove.cs.umd.edu (Aloysius Yoon)
Date: 8 Aug 91 13:54:38 GMT
>
>Anyway, the timing and injection stuff can be modified by purchasing a new
>Digifant (Bosch) chip from Autothority in Virginia. Although it requires 92
>octane gasoline, it does improve the performance of the engine -- and they've
>reworked the throttle curve a bit to make it "feel" peppier.
>
>You also get about 15-20% better gas mileage, as a bonus. And you'll still
>pass inspection, no problem.
>
>They also have another chip that works in conjunction with a smaller pulley
>to improve horsepower very considerably -- without radically reworking the
>wiring the way the APS upgrade does. Just replace the pulley and chip and
>go. Don't have any experience with it, though.
>
The second kit that Dave is talking about here also includes a fuel regulator
from Porsche 944s. Couple of my friends have this stage II kit in their, and
compared to my girl friend's stock Corrado, it's just unbelievable. There
is so much torque available at low rpms, and the power delivery is very
smooth and progressive. They used Varicom, a car performance measuring
computer, to test 0-60, and the result was 7.1 or 7.2 sec with skinny stock
tires doing lots of wheel spin. On autothority's dyno, the horsepower
increased to about 190bhp. So, If I had a Corrado, this stage II kit would
be the first thing on the option list.
--Al
PS. To a fellow netter who recently purchased a yellow Corrado in CA
For some reason, I can't send mail to you. The mailer daemon
complaints that there is "no such user." So for more info, call
Autothority in Fairfax, VA, they will be glad to talk to you.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado Power Enhancements, was VW in EnglanD
From: dnanian@uw.com (Dave Nanian)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1991 12:49:48 GMT
In article <1991Jul30.105932.29463@watserv1.waterloo.edu>
tom@mims-iris.waterloo.edu (Tom Haapanen) writes:
> jan@dev7d.mdcbbs.com writes:
> > My impression is that [Corrado] ignition could be adavanced a whole lot
> > more before the knock sensor kicks in (does the Euro Cor. have a
> > knock sensor?)
>
> Also, does anyone know how to change the rear spoiler activation from the
> North American 45 mph (72 km/h) to the European 90 km/h (56 mph)? My brother
> just moved to Europe, taking his Corrado with him, and over there (as here,
> too, IMHO) a spoiler that goes up at 70 km/h is a bit dorky.
>
> P.S. Jan -- what's your proper mail address? mdcbbs.com keeps bouncing
mail...
>
> [ \tom haapanen --- university of waterloo --- tom@mims-iris.waterloo.edu ]
> [ "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
I'm following up to a slightly incorrect article; sorry about that.
Anyway, the timing and injection stuff can be modified by purchasing a new
Digifant (Bosch) chip from Autothority in Virginia. Although it requires 92
octane gasoline, it does improve the performance of the engine -- and they've
reworked the throttle curve a bit to make it "feel" peppier.
You also get about 15-20% better gas mileage, as a bonus. And you'll still
pass inspection, no problem.
They also have another chip that works in conjunction with a smaller pulley to
improve horsepower very considerably -- without radically reworking the wiring
the way the APS upgrade does. Just replace the pulley and chip and go. Don't
have any experience with it, though.
--
Dave Nanian, UnderWare, Inc. (dnanian@uw.com, uunet!uw!dnanian)
NeXT Mail Preferred, but any mail cheerfully accepted.
--
Dave Nanian, UnderWare, Inc. (dnanian@uw.com, uunet!uw!dnanian)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: AutoThority Stage II
From: jhamill@BBN.COM (John Hamill)
Date: 13 Apr 1992 14:43:54 GMT
Well, I went and installed the AutoThority Stage II kit in my
Corrado this weekend. I bought and installed this kit with some
reservations and visions of my supercharger self destructing, or
maybe a piston flying through the hood...
I did the installation at my dad's garage with several VW
technicians watching me every step of the way (they only get to
do oil changes on Corrado's at this point of their product life)
so watching someone rip apart the Digifant computer was interesting to
them. The AutoThority kit is fairly easy to install if you have a
fully equipped garage at hand, even if you don't the only thing you
need to do it is an air impact wrench. You must be careful and take
your time, you're playing with an expensive motor and delicate things.
I got the kit installed in two hours, one hour going to changing the
chip, the other to changing the supercharger pulley and fuel regulator.
Impressions: well all I can say is, VR6's WATCH OUT! The car
will launch explosively in all gears now at almost all rpms. The
increase in supercharger speed means that the car responds at low
rpm much, much better. It is much easier to get out in traffic now
without having to floor it and wait for the rpms to come up.
On the highway, the engine seems to have to labor much less
with the cruise control when going up hills. The engine has more power
whether the boost is on or not, due to the higher fuel delivery and
advanced timing. It feels a lot more like driving the VR6. The big
mushy spot from 1/4 to about 3/4 of the way down on the gas pedal
is pretty much eliminated. My highway gas mileage actually went up
with this kit, my city mileage still remains the same (about 20).
Benefits:
Throttle response immediate
Gas mileage went up to 30.6 on highway
More farhvergnugen
Fairly easy to install
Car is just as docile and well behaved when driven
normally.
Fewer parts to install than APS's stage II
Kit is based on the chip, not an add-on analog
fuel enrichment system like Neuspeed's.
Non-benefits
Probably destroyed any notion of a warrenty
G-60 spinning faster - noisier, might wear out faster
Temptation to accelerate like a bat out of hell
Might wear out engine mounts faster, also the seat
backs are taking more of a strain holding you up
from the high g-forces.
Doesn't include an exhaust upgrade
If anyone has more specific questions, feel free to email me.
BTW, I bought the kit from AutoTech, not AutoThority itself, because
AutoTech has a 10% off sale on them right now. I called AutoThority
and they seemed psyched to support the kit, and I told them I was
thinking of using Neuspeed's supercharger cam, they said fine,
let us know and we will send you a chip tuned for the cam.
They are working on an exhaust upgrade also.
jh
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 9:02:09 EDT
From: John Hamill
Subject: Re: AutoThority Stage II
No, haven't heard any knock. The engine temp has remained the
same also. The car is so much more responsive, it's great. All
complaints about lack of response that I had with it are gone.
The cooling system seems to be under no more of a strain at all.
I would say that the lower temp thermostat and fan switch Neuspeed
provides in his kit are largely unneccessary. When I drove my Corrado
hard before I installed Stage II, the oil temp would hit the 220's. I
haven't seen it go higher yet. What's really amazing is that your
highway gas mileage goes up noticably. To maintain 65 mph requires a
bare touch on the gas pedal.
John
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 10:05:38 EDT
From: John Hamill
Subject: Re: AutoThority Stage II
To: jan@camhpp12
I was told by a VW technician that as soon as I installed
stage 1 I had already voided the warrenty by opening the computer
box, hence my decision to go for stage II. Of course, hiding a
chip change is a lot easier than a pulley, although my engine
still looks very stock to anyone not knowing what to look for.
I have been using natural oil, 10-40 and 20-50 up to
the present (Quaker State), and will probably switch to Mobil-1
soon. My roommate used that slick stuff in his last oil change
and said it made a difference to his engine. I don't think I
need to use it if I switch to synthetic.
It's pretty amazing that with the extra 30 hp my engine
temps still seem the same as before. I highly recommend this
kit - go for it!
John
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 17:05:25 EDT
From: John Hamill
Subject: Re: Stage II
I made backups of all my chips, the original VW chip, the
Neuspeed P-chip, and my AutoThority Stage II chip. It's pretty
easy if you have access to a Data I/O or something similiar.
Have you played with the suspension yet?
John
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 17:08:11 EDT
From: John Hamill
Subject: Re: Stage II
Another thing I have is the dissassembled EPROM listings for
all these chips. It's interesting to examine the program for the
68HC11 microprocessor and how the tuners modify the fuel and ignition
maps.
John
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 93 18:49:48 PST
From: Alaric Lik Lau
Subject: Re: Corrado G60 AutoThority Stage I/II kits
In rec.autos.vw you write:
> Has anyone bought one of them? What is the differnece between them,
> and what do you get with them?
I sold a couple of used stage one's before (as a retailer), basically stage one
contains only a chip, but stage two contains a chip and a bunch of hardwares
like pulley, mufflers, themostate, etc..
> The Stage II kit supposedly includes a 'smaller belt' for the super-charger
> to make it spin faster. What would this do to it? Any horror stories from
> anyone?o
I have heard horror stories about stage II kits overheated the charger and blew
up the engine. I only recommend chips + cams + exhuast but not the stage 2 kit.
The stage 2 kit is very lumpy when it doesn't blow up. :)
> Cost/dealers and horsepower gains would be great if you could list them.
the stage one chip is excellent, it gives a solid 11hp gain, and a 33% increase
in low-end torque (where a gain is needed most). A new Authority could cost
over $300 CND for a dealer.
A Neuspeed cam promises 15hp, and is a very mild cam, cost about $300 also
A stage II Autothority promises 27hp, and it would cost well over $1200.
A Neuspeed stage II also gives out 27hp, and it is about $800.
Frankly, I don't know whether Neuspeed or Autot. is better, I used to think
Autot. was better, but some people told me that Neuspeeds are just as good if
not better.
Hope it helps...
Alaric
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: doug@ulysses.ATT.COM
Subject: Re: Corrado questions
Jan-
Howdy. My car is running well, if a bit roughly lately, I think it just
needs a little Techron or new plugs. Still puts down the power like a
stock G(utless)-60 could never dream to. No problems. Never burns oil.
(I just switched to Mobil 1) I think the valves might be getting a teensy
bit louder but this might be my imagination. (Or I need a tune-up.) It
does ping a slight bit at 3/4 throttle but now I'm being picky.
My transmission is getting harder to shift but it wasn't a joy to begin
with so I suspect that this might be wear & tear on the synchros.
My luck isn't so good...It just seems to be a dent magnet lately. 8^(
I have sat in but never driven a VR6 Corrado yet.
- Doug Humphrey
-------------------8<----- Cut Here -----8<-------------------
>From: Jan Vandenbrande
>Subject: Re: Corrado questions
>To: doug@ulysses.ATT.COM
>
>Hi Doug, how's your Stage II holding out?
>How would you compare it to an SLC?
>Any problems so far?
>
>--
>Jan
>
>jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (work)
>jan@lipari.usc.edu (school, usually works, forwards)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Finn
Subject: Re: VW H20 8V non-CIS injection
>I am interested in fitting Bosch electronic injectors in my VW 8V head
>which currently has those skinny CIS injectors. Why? I want (need!) to
>run a Haltech F5 injecton system to try and fix some severe fuel delivery
>problems.
>This was due to the supplimental injected fuel
>trying to turn the relatively sharp corner from the throttle body into #3
>& #4 (the manifold was designed as a dry flow manifold and thus did not
>account for the momentum effects of fuel droplets).
Electromotive makes a nice setup that includes direct ignition that
looks like it would do exactly what you want. I'm planning on using a
TEC-II system with direct ignition on my 88 Civic (will most likely be
using an Aerodyne Aerocharger). I never really liked the injection
system on my Motronic 16v Golf or Digifant II G60. The VR6 Motronic
with a MAF sensor is a nice setup except for the distributor and the
fact that it's non-sequential. On my old G60 I managed to melt a
piston down somehow so I took the opertunity to bore it to 82mm with
Techtonics pistons, 144mm oiler rods, 16v flywheel, clutch, 2Y gearbox
with rod linkage, 260/420 cam, 68mm blower pulley and the 944 Turbo
fuel pressure regulater. Tip for any of you G60 owners who think $500
or whatever is a bit much for a pulley and a pressure regulator. I
had machine shop make a duplicate of a friends Neuspeed pulley for
$50, and the regulators Bosch part # is 0 280 160 263 from a 944 Turbo
and cost me $85 can. The cam was from Autotech and is the same as
APS's for half the price ($99). The chip I suppose you ought to buy
since it is software, but I have an Eprom burner... California Imports
sells the G60 stage III kits for a little over 8 bills and the same
stuff cost me about $250, surely someone is making quite a tidy profit
here. After all was said and done, the car was ok but I don't think
supercharging is the answer. If I was going to spend that much
time/effort etc. on a Corrado again I would do a 2L 16v with
aftermarket injection/ignition, and an Aerodyne turbo. And I would
keep the 02A gearbox, add the later style spacers and the VR6 balance
weight b/c it has more favorable ratios for a done up motor. As to
your original question, the Bosch injectors fit on the 16v head so my
guess is they would fit on your 8v head, but if not, a digifant head
shouldn't be hard to come by... :) Shawn @ Ron's Parts had an Audi
Turbo manifold on his G60 Cabrio which is supposed to make a Big
difference in top end breathing which you might want to look into.
They seem to be all the rage around here but I've never tried one out
myself...anyone have any opinions or flowbench figures on this setup?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Message 10/43 from Deanna Westra Oct 13 '94 at 4:17 pm
Return-Path:
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 1994 16:17:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: AUTOTHORITY STAGE III KITS (fwd)
To: jan@UG.EDS.COM
X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
My own Autothority experience:
Just two days ago, I installed an Autothority Stage II kit in my '90
G60. This kit consists of pulley, chip and uprated fuel pressure
regulator. Before that, I had a Stage I, which is a chip only.
Stage I was better than stock in every way. Started better, ran
better, better fuel economy, better power, but perhaps most of all,
much improved smoothness and quicker throttle response. The only
downside is that according to Autothority, you can't use < 92 octane
gas. I didn't before, anyway.
If Stage I was noticeable yet subtle, like a bit of ginger perhaps,
Stage II was more like a nose full of cayenne. The engine feels and
sounds entirely different. Whereas G60 and G60 Stage I are pretty
quick, G60 Stage II feels like it could outsprint most cars. Brutal, a
bit dangerous, and oh so sexy. Hold onto that wheel when you tromp the
gas! ;-)
More sound coming from the engine, especially at highway speeds, but
IMO the sound has more character than it did before.
We'll see what I have to say about the sound after I take a little
road trip, which I'm doing soon.
One person I've talked to says Stage III (same as above + cam) makes
all the difference in the high end. Another says it's not worth
it.
Alex
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
AT vs APS (G60)
===============
Article 31773 of rec.autos.vw:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Path: lynx.unm.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!ames!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!EU.net!uunet!world!jhamill
From: jhamill@world.std.com (John A Hamill)
Subject: Re: G60 NewSpeed Upgrades
Message-ID:
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
References: <94120.124641MXB171@psuvm.psu.edu> <5MAY199421262253@elroy.uh.edu>
Date: Sat, 7 May 1994 14:25:43 GMT
Lines: 23
In article <5MAY199421262253@elroy.uh.edu> mjs02324@elroy.uh.edu (94S02324) writes:
>I called APS, got what seemed like a teenager on the phone telling
>me that the folks at Autothority are just a bunch of f*****g computer hackers, etc.
>I wonder, since they(Autothority) did manage to figure out how to enrich the fuel
>mixture w/out tricking the cold start valve..... (like neuspeed does)
>Autothority uses just a pulley and chip. Must be something to it!
>
Yeah, APS has a couple of little bratty f*ckheads who answer the phone.
I just ignore them and ask to speak to Aaron. The information the little brats
give is usually wrong too.
I can give some contrast on both the AutoThority and APS G-60 kits
since I've installed both. They both work quite well, the AutoThority kit
giving a little more power at the price of some driveability. The APS kit
delivers smoother power, but is more involved to install. Installing the
APS kit requires some cutting of the engine wiring harness, whereas the
AutoThority kit does not. Both kits make a lot of power. One thing
annoying and a feature at the same time is that the Gillet exhaust
upgrade that comes with the APS kit is good for 7 hp, but it drones
quite badly at some RPM ranges and makes the interior noisy.
jh
Article 31900 of rec.autos.vw:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
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From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Re: G60 NewSpeed Upgrades
Message-ID:
Sender: news@pts.mot.com
Nntp-Posting-Host: sun408
Reply-To: ep502ca@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
References: <2qehml$3jc@search01.news.aol.com>
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 15:27:02 GMT
Lines: 35
>-I called APS, got what seemed like a teenager on the phone...
Sounds like this guy Keith I talked to there once. He tried to tell
me I knew nothing about cars and basically insulted me till I finally
hung up.
>See this month's copy of _Wired_ for good article on this. Based on that
>article, Autothority is a bunch of f****** competent computer hackers. They
>have 3 different upgrades for G60s. I've been considering it, would love to
>hear from any who have them. My concern is throttle response in mid-range,
>rather than top end.
The Autothority Stage 2 kit will give you all the midrange you have been
hoping for. Throttle response is great. The true hackers are the guys
at Neuspeed who try to richen up the mixture by screwing with the cold
start valve and don't think that there is any advantage to ajusting the
timing etc... Autothority went about the modifications the smart way.
The reprogrammed the computer to remap the fuel and timing curves. Why
hack some kinda enrichment circuit when you can intelligently modify what
is already there. If VW was to build the G60 like it was supposed to run
they would have done it like Autothority.
Chuck
---
,,,
(. .)
__________________________________.oOO--(_)--OOo.___________________________
| OOo O |
| __/|_ , Chuck Actor Oo |
| /o _ \/{ ep502ca@pts.mot.com _____ o o |
| \__~__/\{ Motorola Paging - Boynton Beach, FL (_/-\_).. |
| ` ` (407)364-2069 fax (407)364-3925 ===(O). |
|____________________________________________________________________________|
Article 31906 of rec.autos.vw:
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From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Re: one chip fits all, or no?
Message-ID:
Sender: news@pts.mot.com
Nntp-Posting-Host: sun408
Reply-To: ep502ca@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
References:
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 17:46:36 GMT
Lines: 20
> Then again, I'm not quite clear as to what exactly the P-Chip does
> and it may be that it's not affected by other engine mods.
I'd be real curious to what Neuspeed says. From their catalog, the
only thing I can tell it does is increase the rev-limiter. Which in my
opinion is a waste. If you look at the dyno curves from Autothority,
the horsepower begins to fall off between 5500 and 6000 RPM even with
the Stage 3 kit. This can be verified by driving impression. Peak
torque on the modified motor is still around 4000 or 4500. So if
you shift anywhere near the new redline (7400?) the motor is way
down on horsepower and the drop in revs will still be above the peak
torque. IMOH this isn't the way to go fast. According to Autothority
the drop in power above 5500 is due to the lack in flow of the stock
head and intake. The said their tests with different exhausts and
air cleaners gave them maybe 5 more HP. They felt the costs didn't
oyt weigh the benefits.....Of course that doesn't mean I'm not
looking at a P-flow filter and Gillet exhaust.
Chuck
Article 32171 of rec.autos.vw:
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From: jhamill@world.std.com (John A Hamill)
Subject: Re: G60 NewSpeed Upgrades
Message-ID:
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
References: <5MAY199421262253@elroy.uh.edu>
Date: Sat, 14 May 1994 14:22:27 GMT
Lines: 26
In article JAH@slc.slac.stanford.edu (Josh Hadler) writes:
>> AutoThority kit does not. Both kits make a lot of power. One thing
>> annoying and a feature at the same time is that the Gillet exhaust
>> upgrade that comes with the APS kit is good for 7 hp, but it drones
>> quite badly at some RPM ranges and makes the interior noisy.
>> jh
>I find your comment about the Gillet exhaust unusual. Gillet is amoung the
>quietest of the performance exhaust systems. As well as having a well
>deserved reputation for durabillity. Is the system on your G60 a one or two
>muffler system? I have the Gillet on my '86 GTI, and really like the sound
>levels. The only time I get a "droning" is a great sounding growl at full
>throttle :-)
The G-60 has completely different noise and sound dynamics than
a normally aspirated Golf. The Gillet in combination with the extra noise
from the supercharger which spins at a higher speed with Stage II does
create a drone at about 3000 rpm. You're right in that the sound from the
muffler is still quiet with the Gillet, but the Gillet kit replaces the
big resonator just behind the rear muffler in the G-60. The resonator
VW installed stock actually does its job quite well. The Gillet kit is
two piece, it provides a center resonator and center rear muffler to
replace the big resonator. G-60's don't "growl" under any circumstances,
they just make more supercharger noise as you rev it up.
jh
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
AT STAGE III
============
Article 12255 of rec.autos.vw:
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Path: ug!uunet!ftpbox!mothost!pts1!mug87!ep502ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Autothority Kits for Corrados
Message-ID: <1993Mar23.205610.10173@pts.mot.com>
From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1993 20:56:10 GMT
Reply-To: ep502ca@pts.mot.com
Sender: usenet@pts.mot.com
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Hello,
I saw a post on the net awhile back summarizing the performance mods
available for the Corrado. I am in the process (waiting for the kit to
arrive by mail) of installing an Autothority Stage III kit on my 90
Corrado. Thought somebody out there may be interested.
The stage three kit consists of a new chip (different than stages I &II),
a new smaller blower pulley, a 944 fuel pressure regualtor (higher
pressure, boost sensative?) and a new cam. I am purchasing it through
a local shop for $760 (list $795). The installation supposebly will take
4 hours (stage 2 takes three hours est.). I decided to have a local german
car place do the install as I don't have an impact wrench to remove the
blower pulley and the cam change (only 1 hour?) doesn't sound like fun to me.
Anyway, Paul at Autothority (I call him Paul after sitting on the phone
with him for a good half hour) claims the following for his kits:
Stage I: Just a chip.
175 HP for $375
Stage II: Different chip, blower pulley and fuel pressure regulator.
201 HP for $595
Stage III: As outlined above.
217 HP for $795
I should have my first reaction in a couple of days. He claims a G60 w/
stage III will run circles around the VR6. I guess with almost 40 more
HP it should. According to Autothority Stage III really only helps at
5,000 RPM and up. I figured with the cam change it's a good time for a
new timing belt (I have 30K miles on my car). Should be nice for
autocrossing.
Autothority's test mule has 13K (according to Paul) very hard miles on it
with no breakage. They clain no failures in any of the installations to
date. They say there should be minimal loss of reliability. They said
I'll be using a lot less throttle in normal driving.
If anyone out there is interested I'll post my driving impressions. BTW
I helped install an Autothority stage II kit in a 944 Turbo and the results
were fantastic. The kit took less than 1-1/2 hours to install. The car is
a blast to drive. With over 300 HP on tap it's great. That's one kit
that I can very highly reccomend.
If anyone out there wants to call Autothority, there more than happy to
spend time talking to you, there number is: (703) 323-0919.
---
______________________________________________________________________________
| |
| _ /| Chuck Actor ------- __o |
| \`0_o'' Oop, ep502ca@pts.mot.com ------- _`\<,_ |
| -( )= Ack! Motorola Paging - Boynton Beach, FL ------- (*)/ (*) |
| U (407)364-2751 fax (407)364-2028 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
|____________________________________________________________________________|
From ep502ca@pts.mot.com Wed Apr 14 09:17 PDT 1993
Date: 14 Apr 1993 11:31:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: VW articles
To: jan@UG.EDS.COM
Message-Id: <9304141531.AA03751@pts4.pts.mot.com>
X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
Status: RO
Jan,
I'm still trying to work out some bugs before I post my responce about
the stage 3 conversion I did. But FYI, I was a little pissed at first
because of the bad chip they sent me but they did Fed X one next day
Sat. delivery to me with no questions asked. More than likely the guys
who installed it put it in backwards and nuked it. So not much to say
there. Initially the car would hesitate badly between 4,000-5,000 RPM
when under full throttle in 3 or 4th gear. I called Autothority about it
and was told if it happens at a consistent RPM then they would modify the
chip for my at no charge to correct this leaning (that's what I thought it
was) condition. Well, I tried the easy thing, two cans of fuel injector
cleaner, and it went away. So throw in a can regularly. The car pulls
very strong. For my boring driving, flat Florida roads, it could still
use some more power. I'm spoiled by my dad's stage 2 944 turbo with
maybe 310hp. 217 doesn't cut it in comparison. But to put it in
perspective. On curvy roads, best I can does is on ramps and parking lots,
it hauls ass! I have to admit I still favor the rush of the turbos over
the gradual build of the supercharger. Although the car seems to really
take off over 4500. There is also a kick at 3500 RPM. Above 5000 it's
making serious horsepower. There is a flat spot in the power between 4000
and 5000 RPM. I talked to Autothority about this and they say it is due to
the cam and they can't get rid of this. For anything but straight line WOT
acceleration, it's not noticable. The car would be great for Autocrossing
with a little suspension work. Right now the car hesitates a little when
it is first started and for the first 10 seconds or so when you start it
cold. I'm going to talk to Autothority about this. I don't know if the
car uses a seperate cold start injector or if the computer richens up the
mixture. No big deal. You just blip the throttle when it's cold to clear
it up. But it's worth looking in to. I plan on going to the dealer and
driving a new VR6 so I can make some better comparisons. I'm also going to
drive a stock G60 after work to see the difference. It's easy to forget
how it ran before. Also the mileage went down alot but it could be my
binary throttle operation. I'll keep you posted.
Chuck
From ep502ca@pts.mot.com Wed Apr 14 14:40 PDT 1993
Date: 14 Apr 1993 15:47:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Re: VW articles
To: jan@UG.EDS.COM
Message-Id: <9304141947.AA04979@pts4.pts.mot.com>
I just got back from driving a stock G60 and I was a little dissapointed.
Either my car isn't running up to par or 60 more HP doesn't make a huge
difference. My lowend is definetely better. If you step on the gas when
the revs are down in a stock G60 it just sits there. Mine takes off.
Overall it's faster but not by quantum leaps. What really stands out is
the 5000-6000 RPM flat spot. I might downgrade to stage 2 but I'm undecided
as of now. I'll try a VR6 for comparison. Side by side in a drag race
I didn't waste him like I thought I could. In a hundered yards or so
its hard to tell. It all depends on who wants to launch harder.
I guess I'm still happy. My car is still over $10,000 cheaper than a new
VR6. I wish someone else had a modified car around here to compare with.
Chuck
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!pts1!mug87!ep502ca Thu Jun 24 08:45:17 PDT 1993
In article Lnz@dove.nist.gov, keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:
>Let's see, at one point i was using Mobil 1... that is until the time
>i went to have my valve cover gasket replaced and discovered that
>there was only a little over a quart remaining in the pan. Talk about
>scared to death. I just knew that my engine was ruined. However,
>everything was fine. Needless to say, i went back to Castrol GTX,
>yet, sometimes between oil changes (3500 miles) there is no oil
>consumption,
Anyone else had this problem? I use Mobil 1 in my Corrado (stage 3) due to the
high oil temps. I find the car uses alot of oil now. It appears that alot of it
is leaking past the seals in the supercharger...
---
,,,
(. .)
__________________________________.oOO--(_)--OOo.___________________________
| |
| _ /| Chuck Actor ------- __o |
| \`0_o'' Oop, ep502ca@pts.mot.com ------- _`\<,_ |
| -( )= Ack! Motorola Paging - Boynton Beach, FL ------- (*)/ (*) |
| U (407)364-2069 fax (407)364-2028 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
|____________________________________________________________________________|
Article 17893 of rec.autos.vw:
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From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Re: speed times?
Message-ID: <1993Jul21.132041.16097@pts.mot.com>
Sender: usenet@pts.mot.com
Nntp-Posting-Host: 145.4.57.154
Reply-To: ep502ca@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
References: <1993Jul20.180608.22120@cc.umontreal.ca>
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 13:20:41 GMT
Lines: 33
I recently had the opportunity to race a friends Mitsubishi Turbo (Eagle Talon
clone). The Talons are known to be very quick. I don't remember the 0-60 but
the car has 195hp. Anyway my car is a 90 Corrado with a stage 3 kit from
Autothority (210+ hp claimed...190-200 maybe). We went from 0 to about 85mph
and the cars were almost dead even. We also played on the freeway from 60 to
115 they're pretty close. I'd like to think I had a slight edge but it's
hard to tell. When you drive the two cars, the Mitsubishi feels faster.
The Corrado has been a blast to drive with the Autothority kit. I could never
go back and drive a stock one. I find myself driving the car much faster now.
The drivability is great. The mileage (mainly due to my driving) has dropped
from 25-26 average to a little over 19 mpg.
For those who are curious, the top speed is 130 mph. This has been checked
a couple of times. I know..."But my stock Corrado does 125...." At least mine
did. The peak power of the engine is at 6000 RPM after that it falls off
rapidly. Peak fun zone 4,000-6,000 RPM. If you look at the Corrado, 130 mph
falls right about 6,000 RPM. Can't go any faster when the power is dropping off.
But I can get up there faster than stock, although the most fun is between 60
and 80 mph in 3rd gear.
Chuck
---
,,,
(. .)
__________________________________.oOO--(_)--OOo.___________________________
| |
| _ /| Chuck Actor ------- __o |
| \`0_o'' Oop, ep502ca@pts.mot.com ------- _`\<,_ |
| -( )= Ack! Motorola Paging - Boynton Beach, FL ------- (*)/ (*) |
| U (407)364-2069 fax (407)364-2028 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
|____________________________________________________________________________|
Article 22613 of rec.autos.vw:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Path: lynx.unm.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!sdd.hp.com!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!jhamill
From: jhamill@world.std.com (John A Hamill)
Subject: Re: Corrado Tuning
Message-ID:
Keywords: Corrado, VW, G60
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
References: <121939@hydra.gatech.EDU>
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1993 00:20:02 GMT
Lines: 24
In article <121939@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt9278a@prism.gatech.EDU (Rob Beverly) writes:
>Does anyone have any experience with G60 tuning? I am particularly
>interested in the kits offered by various manufacturers. AutoThority
>offers a Corrado G60 stage 3 kit that supposedly brings the corrado
>up to 217bhp for $795. It includes a camshaft and an eprom chip. Are
>these figures for real? Would this type of an installation be too
>much of a strain on the G-ladder and engine? Any information would
Neuspeed doesn't even claim that much power with their
heavily modified 2.0 G-60 Corrado. Somehow AutoThority's dyno seems
to read way above what everyone else gets. You can probably count on
around 190-200hp with stage III, if you also upgrade the exhaust, which
AutoThority's kit doesn't provide. Neuspeed sells a Gillet middle pipe
and muffler for $300, but this exhaust makes the car drone at highway
speeds quite badly. The real soulution? Sell the car and buy a SLC!
When I still had my G-60 I had every trick that could be bolted
to it, and was making probably 200-205hp. I didn't think the engine
was strained at all, but the car itself couldn't really handle that
much power well. You really need traction control with that much power
or the car becomes unstable.
jh
Article 24534 of rec.autos.vw:
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From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Re: [W] Starter problems in '90 Corrado
Message-ID:
Sender: news@pts.mot.com
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Reply-To: ep502ca@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
References: <2f4scpINNrqk@lynx.unm.edu>
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1993 20:51:59 GMT
Lines: 38
I have the Autothority Stage 3 kit in my 90. I'd reccomend it. The only
negative I have is the mileage. But then again, the way I drive it's not
that bad. Average around 20-21. Made one trip of 185 miles in just under
2 hours an got 17 mpg. Sorry I used to have a sprint turbo (40+ mpg).
Double check the timing after install to make sure it's right on and
keep good clean plugs in the car. As far as wheel spin goes, I have no
problems. I use 205 Michellin XGTs on 15x7 rims. The car can spin them
but you really have to get into it. Personally I find the VW CV joints
and tranny a little to fragile for smokin' the tires. You will notice the
car losses HP above 5500 RPM. This is due to the cam and the breathing
of the stock head. So don't expect your top speed to go up. You'll just
get there quicker. Keep me informed how it works for you. I'm very
interested. Some people claim tire smoking performance but I've been
underwhelmed in some respects. I'm going to try a lower temp thermostat
and fan temp gauge to see if I can cool the motor down. It doesn't run
much hotter than stock, but even stock the oil temp is too high for my
liking. I agree with Jan, the gearing does suck.
FYI: for those interested, a late model Golf or Jetta cooling fan will
work in the Corrado. The Corrado fan is $250 and a used Golf fan is
$65-$75. The blades are different (wont interchange) but the fan is
a straight bolt in and seems to work as good or better than the stock
fan.
Chuck
---
,,,
(. .)
__________________________________.oOO--(_)--OOo.___________________________
| OOo O |
| __/|_ , Chuck Actor Oo |
| /o _ \/{ ep502ca@pts.mot.com _____ o o |
| \__~__/\{ Motorola Paging - Boynton Beach, FL (_/-\_).. |
| ` ` (407)364-2069 fax (407)364-3925 ===(O). |
|____________________________________________________________________________|
Article 24572 of rec.autos.vw:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Path: lynx.unm.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!sgiblab!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!jhamill
From: jhamill@world.std.com (John A Hamill)
Subject: Re: [W] Starter problems in '90 Corrado
Message-ID:
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
References: <2f4scpINNrqk@lynx.unm.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 02:58:50 GMT
Lines: 16
In article ep502ca@pts.mot.com writes:
>I have the Autothority Stage 3 kit in my 90. I'd reccomend it. The only
>negative I have is the mileage. But then again, the way I drive it's not
>that bad. Average around 20-21. Made one trip of 185 miles in just under
>2 hours an got 17 mpg. Sorry I used to have a sprint turbo (40+ mpg).
>Double check the timing after install to make sure it's right on and
>keep good clean plugs in the car. As far as wheel spin goes, I have no
>problems. I use 205 Michellin XGTs on 15x7 rims. The car can spin them
Interesting. I still used to get 27-29 mpg with my 90 Corrado
with Stage III and a Gillet exhaust, KN airfilter. My city mileage did drop
3-4 mpg though. I'm still convinced AutoThority tries to accomplish
a little too much with the chip alone. They dial in a lot of fuel and
timing advance, much more than the P-chip which you use with the APS
stage II.
Article 34421 of rec.autos.vw:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Path: lynx.unm.edu!umn.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!xlink.net!nntp.gmd.de!Germany.EU.net!EU.net!uunet!world!jhamill
From: jhamill@world.std.com (John A Hamill)
Subject: Re: [W] G60 + AT Stage II + ?AutoTech CAM? ~= Stage III?
Message-ID:
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
References: <2u7onr$2rj@lynx.unm.edu>
Date: Thu, 23 Jun 1994 03:19:01 GMT
Lines: 23
In article <2u7onr$2rj@lynx.unm.edu> jan@camhpp12.ug.eds.com (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:
>I was wondering whether any of you have tried to use
>AutoTech's CAM on a Corrado G60 with a Stage 2 Autothority
>kit.
>This is similar to the Stage 3 kit, but at a lower price,
>the main difference being the chip.
>
>If you did, how's low end, high end, idle, power, fuel
>consumption, noise, reliability.
>
I installed the Stage II kit back when they had first developed
it and then installed the 260 deg supercharger cam from APS. I called
AutoThority about a chip to compensate for the cam and they sent me
what later became the chip for the Stage III kit. I noticed no difference
at all between the stage II and III chips. The cam however, makes a HUGE
difference. Much more midrange and top end, no loss (or minimal at best)
of low end. Fuel consumption is a function of your right foot in any
turbo or supercharged car. If you go easy you can still get 27-29 mpg
highway. The 260 deg cam is very mild and doesn't affect idle at all.
In fact, you can't even tell the cam has been changed until you get the
boost up and then all hell breaks loose. The stage II kit should not
be installed without the 260 deg cam, it makes that much difference.
From ep502ca@pts.mot.com Wed Jun 22 07:31 PDT 1994
Date: Wed, 22 Jun 1994 10:28:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Re: [W] G60 + AT Stage II + ?AutoTech CAM? ~=
To: jan@camhpp12
Message-Id: <9406221428.AA21817@mserv1.pts.mot.com>
X-Envelope-To: jan@fshpp1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
Content-Length: 1456
Status: RO
When i was having problems with my car originally, I ran a stage 2 chip
with my stage 3 cam. from what I can tell the stage 2 chip is just a little
leaner. I'm sure there are alot of subtle differences but that is the only
thing I noticed. Right now my car is running like shit! It won't pull full
throttle. The knock sensor cuts in and kills the motor the minute you punch
it under load. I tried new plugs (usually fixes the problem) but it didn't
help. It pulls real strong part throttle so I'm guessing the timing got
advanced some how. I need to check it this weekend. Of course after the
car got totally vandalized by some gang this weekend, I'm ready to dump it.
Did you know that spray in foam insulation can not be dissolved by any
common solvents? And it does a great job of sticking doors, spoilers and
hatches shut. Plugs exhauts pretty well also. It even sticks to rubber.
And always keep your car heavily waxed so spray paint comes offf easier.
Wow my car needed wax!
,,,
(. .)
__________________________________.oOO--(_)--OOo.___________________________
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| __/|_ , Chuck Actor Oo |
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| ` ` (407)364-2069 fax (407)364-3925 ===(O). |
|____________________________________________________________________________|
From ep502ca@pts.mot.com Thu Jun 23 11:43 PDT 1994
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Date: Thu, 23 Jun 1994 14:39:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Re: [W] G60 + AT Stage II + ?AutoTech CAM? ~=
To: jan@UG.EDS.COM
Message-Id: <9406231839.AA08993@mserv1.pts.mot.com>
X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
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Status: RO
> Leaner? That's not that great for VW engines, they seem to like to
> run a tad rich.
All the ones I have seen tend to run lean.
> Do you notice a big difference between the regular cam and the
> stage 3 cam? I am sure there is more power, but at what point do
> you really feel the difference? How does it affect the low end?
I went straight from stage zero to stage 3. I drove a friends stage
2 for a couple of miles but that's it. I can't remeber much except
thinking that going from stage 2 to 3 was a waste of time for normal
driving. There isn't much difference.
> Perhaps your knock sensor died? Torqued wrongly?
I haven't touched it. I'm going to try to retard the timing. The
sensor is definetly working...working too good.
> Bummer. I just saw an add for an SLC on the net. I was almost tempted.
> The SLCs are 10 times better than the G60s.
> Of course, if you are like me, I have my eye out on some 2nd hand 911s.
> One guy here at work bought an '82 targa in mint condition for about 12k$.
> Hope you have vandalism coverage.
I still think the best deal for the money is an 85-86 944 turbo with
a stage 2 kit in it. 300 hp. It's like comparing the G60 to the SLC.
It makes the VW look like crap. I got scared of 911 when I priced a set
of cylinders and pistons (about $2k). I'm sick of cars right now. If
i want to go fast I hop on my motorcycle. For less than 10K you can get
a bike that will blow away any car on the road. My 55hp Ducati will
rip the Crappado apart. Save the car for the grocerey store and when it
rains.
From usc!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!ftpbox!mothost!pts-nntp!sun408!cactor Wed Nov 30 11:54:19 PST 1994
Article: 44063 of rec.autos.vw
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Path: usc!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!ftpbox!mothost!pts-nntp!sun408!cactor
From: cactor@pts.mot.com (Charles Actor)
Subject: Re: --Corrado Question --
Message-ID:
Sender: news@pts.mot.com
Nntp-Posting-Host: sun408
Reply-To: cactor@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
References: <3ar5q8$1ahj@hearst.cac.psu.edu>
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 1994 15:00:36 GMT
Lines: 50
I
n article 1ahj@hearst.cac.psu.edu, dxp108@hearst.cac.psu.edu (Dave Petroski) writes:
>It's time to tune up my G60. Where can I get the K&N air filter which
>replaces the air cleaner box. The one which is round and looks like
>it's from a race car or something. Also what is the best type of spark
>plugs to use in a G60? My corrado has 60,000 miles and has seems to
>have lost what it used to have in performance. Whats the best way to
>optimize a cars performance without cams and perf chips?
>
Dave,
Nuespeed makes the aircleaner you are talking about. Personally I'd go
with the stock K&N replacment and keep the original airbox. The difference
in horsepower with the P-flow (cone shaped filter) is minimal and you will
get more intake noise and the filter will require cleaning often. You can
temporarily pull the airbox out of your car and run it to see if the airbox
is causing any restrictions and losses of power. You may notice a slight
increase in power but it could just be the increased noise level that makes
it "feel" quicker.
Why don't you want to try a chip or something? VW tuned the motor so it
will run forever on any kinda crap gas you can put in it. Face it, if
you had to put a warranty on it you would detune the hell out of it. The motor
does have potential though. I've run a Autothority Stage 3 kit for 30k miles
and a buddy of mine has about six months or more on the Stage 2 kit we
installed. The difference in performance between stock and modified (mildly)
is pretty big. I just stripped the AutoThority stuff off my car to trade it in.
I just drove the car for the first time this morning in stock trim I left
the cam in, but it's a very mild one) and the car is slow. No... it's a dog.
I am selling the engine kit. If you want to make the car run like it is
supposed to, you're going to have to go the chip/pulley route. If not, there
is nothing you can do with aircleaners, exhausts etc. that wiull give you
any real increase in power.
Chuck
---
,,,
(. .)
__________________________________.oOO--(_)--OOo.___________________________
| OOo O |
| __/|_ , Chuck Actor Oo |
| /o _ \/{ cactor@pts.mot.com _____ o o |
| \__~__/\{ Motorola Paging - Boynton Beach, FL (_/-\_).. |
| ` ` (407)364-2069 fax (407)364-3925 ===(O). |
|____________________________________________________________________________|
OUTSIDE OF NORTH AMERICA
========================
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 93 14:42:46 GMT
Subject: Re: Corrado G60 AutoThority Stage I/II kits
From: alanm@gigha.uk (Alan McCowan - Sun UK - FSE Edinburgh)
Trevor,
I have a Corrado G60, and over here in the U.K there is a company doing
similar things to what you described. I looked into this and was told that the
kit consisted of a PROM change to the engine management system, and a
replacement (smaller) drive pulley on the supercharger shaft. I was told that
this would result in an increase of power from 160BHP to 190BHP, and an
increase of torque from 160 lb/foot to 250 lb/foot!!! As my car is a company
car I decided not to go ahead with this, but I was assured that there would be
no long term damage to the super-charger if I did make the change.
Hope this helps,
/\ Alan McCowan
\\ \ (Sun - UK - FSE)
\ \\ /
/ \/ / / 38 Melville Street
/ / \//\ Edinburgh
\//\ / / Scotland
/ / /\ / EH3 7HA
/ \\ \ Email :alan.mccowan@sunscot
\ \\
\/
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newer additions:
================
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From usc!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail Tue Jan 10 10:23:38 PST 1995
Article: 47487 of rec.autos.vw
Path: usc!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: allen66@aol.com (ALLEN66)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Need speed!
Date: 9 Jan 1995 21:04:40 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3espvo$1u3@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <1994Dec27.004838.4791@mtroyal.ab.ca>
Reply-To: allen66@aol.com (ALLEN66)
I have a 90 Corrado and have added a Leistritz exhaust and a P-chip from
Nuespeed. The exhaust was a tremendous difference and as for the chip,
well, it wasn't worth the $250 big ones, go with a stage two or three but
then there is that cost thing. The P-flow is supposed to be very nice also
but you can 'make' one from a K&N filter and some PCV pipe for @ 60-70
bucks.
From usc!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail Tue Jan 10 10:32:16 PST 1995
Article: 47494 of rec.autos.vw
Path: usc!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: allen66@aol.com (ALLEN66)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Who Makes the Best Chip
Date: 9 Jan 1995 21:25:32 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 3
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
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References: <3ec6fh$660@ftp.amcc.com>
Reply-To: allen66@aol.com (ALLEN66)
I have a 90 Corrado and put a Nuespeed P-chip in and for the cost I am
pretty disappointed, I would go with a stage 2 or 3 from somewhere else.
Allen66
From usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!interlog.com!davidtam.interlog.com!davidtam Wed Jan 11 08:46:28 PST 1995
Article: 47580 of rec.autos.vw
Path: usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!interlog.com!davidtam.interlog.com!davidtam
From: davidtam@interlog.com (David K. Tam)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Need speed!
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 16:40:36 LOCAL
Organization: Five + Two Consultants
Lines: 49
Message-ID:
References: <1994Dec27.004838.4791@mtroyal.ab.ca> <3espvo$1u3@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3eujmi$mpl@lipari.usc.edu>
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In article <3eujmi$mpl@lipari.usc.edu> jan@lipari.usc.edu (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:
>Path: interlog.com!news1.fonorola.net!swiss.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!usc!not-for-mail
>From: jan@lipari.usc.edu (Jan Vandenbrande)
>Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
>Subject: Re: Need speed!
>Date: 10 Jan 1995 10:29:38 -0800
>Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
>Lines: 22
>Sender: jan@lipari.usc.edu
>Message-ID: <3eujmi$mpl@lipari.usc.edu>
>References: <1994Dec27.004838.4791@mtroyal.ab.ca> <3espvo$1u3@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
>NNTP-Posting-Host: lipari.usc.edu
>In article <3espvo$1u3@newsbf02.news.aol.com> allen66@aol.com (ALLEN66) writes:
>>I have a 90 Corrado and have added a Leistritz exhaust and a P-chip from
>>Nuespeed. The exhaust was a tremendous difference and as for the chip,
>>well, it wasn't worth the $250 big ones, go with a stage two or three but
>>then there is that cost thing. The P-flow is supposed to be very nice also
>>but you can 'make' one from a K&N filter and some PCV pipe for @ 60-70
>>bucks.
>How's the sound from the Leistritz? Is that the package where the
>suitcase muffler is eliminated?
>Watch out for the PFlow...it's way too noisy for THAT CAR (it's cool
>on the VR6s) just go with the K&N replacement filter.
>The AutoThority Stage I (and all the others) made quite a difference
>in my opinion. (I have to watch out nowadays, some of the tuners know
>me and call me when I voice some of my opinions).
>Jan
>--
>-----------------
>Jan jan@lipari.usc.edu
I too have a 90 G0 Corrado with Leistritz exhaust, P-Chip and P-Flow. What I
found was a bit different. The Leistritz didn't really make that much of a
difference except hassle in getting installing so the pipe won't hit my rear
axle. The Leistritz sound pretty good and it does eliminates the suit case
muffler. The only problem is it occassionally have a loud buzy sound may be it
is a defect. As for the P-Chip, it is great I would not go back to the stock
chip. Also the P-Flow is louder but the response in the high end is fast. I am
still contemplating in going to Stage II and with APS or APE. Is stage II too
much power for the G60 Corrado? Any comments.
Regards.
David
From usc!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!uunet.ca!uunet.ca!io.org!usenet Wed Jan 11 09:13:31 PST 1995
Article: 47626 of rec.autos.vw
Path: usc!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!uunet.ca!uunet.ca!io.org!usenet
From: martynk@io.org (Martyn Kerluk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Make your own replacement chip
Date: 10 Jan 1995 22:56:01 GMT
Organization: Internex Online, Toronto, Ontario, Canada (416 363 3783)
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <3ev3a1$64j@ionews.io.org>
References: <3eq5qi$38l$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com> <3eq806$ll2@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3esj4p$qlv@pt9201.ped.pto.ford.com>
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>I'm not sure what timing maps have to do with anything. Since most
>functions are stored as lookup table in memory all you really need
>to do is locate the tables and play with the numbers (in small deltas)
>until you get what you want. An example is A/F ratio tables and
>multipliers. Most Superchips merely run the engine richer than
>stoich or at least richer than the original calibration allowed.
>Another thing to play with is the top speed fuel cut-out calibration.
>This is usually just a number in memory that can be altered to suit
>the driver's needs.
>
>cheers,
>Bryan (millerb@ACM.org)
MK> Its that kind of "run the engine richer..." mod that causes
Superchips to ping and knock like crazy. Really. I have seen/heard
Superchips/Neuspeed and AMS, and went with AMS because they allow me
exactly what I need, ie, 7200rpm redline, so my 268 cam's can be used
effectively, increase throttle response WITHOUT knock or ping, no mean
feat specially with high lift/duration cam's, and retain VAG 1551
compatibility. The difference is in the R&D.
--
Martyn Kerluk 2.0 litre GTI 16v
<><><><><><><>
...."I come to free the words" ....
..........Brion Gysin..............
From usc!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!pipex!uunet!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news Thu Feb 2 13:04:36 PST 1995
Article: 49869 of rec.autos.vw
Path: usc!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!pipex!uunet!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: Cincinnati Autohaffen <76322.1015@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: CORRADO G60 P CHIP?? YAY OR NAY
Date: 2 Feb 1995 00:11:36 GMT
Organization: Porsche/VW Specialists
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <3gp7vo$sps$1@mhadf.production.compuserve.com>
References: <3ghvfe$f67@ns1.unicomp.net>
Suggest you spend a bit more for a kit ie. Autotech Stage 2, or Neu
approach. More boost , ,more poop. Autotech,s Stage 3 is a BIG improve
Use the Liestritz free-flow and a K@N air filter also. Note: DO NOT a
more boost without more fuel enrichment !!!
--
SAS
From usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!nordic.tiac.net!jhamill Tue Feb 7 12:40:52 PST 1995
Article: 50466 of rec.autos.vw
Path: usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!nordic.tiac.net!jhamill
From: jhamill@tiac.net (John Hamill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] Corrado Mods: Finally decided....
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 1995 00:01:39
Organization: JAH Systems
Lines: 18
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In article <3h5k3j$gg9@newsbf02.news.aol.com> cybrworx@aol.com (Cybrworx) writes:
>1) Has anyone gone with the Chip+Cam+Exhausts mod for a G60 without doing
>the charger pulley? I'm just not brave enough to drive the charger
>harder. At least until it only cost $1K to replace them (instead of $2K).
> What were your impressions?
Yes, this is exactly how I have my wife's 91 G-60 setup right now. It works
great, better mpg with more power if needed. The engine very willingly revs to
redline now. I don't want to go with the pulley since the car already has 50k.
The loss of torque with the 260 cam and no smaller pulley is not that
noticeable.
>2) The Momo Arrow wheels have caught my eye. I saw a set of 17
inchers on>a Golf (Feb European Car) and I liked the look. Any onopinions?
I think 16" is more practical, and looks as good. You are very limited in
tire selection also when you go to 17".
Article 51828 of rec.autos.vw:
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From: bihifi123@aol.com (BiHiFi123)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Corrado exaust upgrade?
Date: 23 Feb 1995 01:43:04 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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I have a 90 Corrado.I purchased the Neuwspeed stage 2 kit.It came with a
smaller s- pully & a center Gillet muffler.The problem is;the new muffler
hits rear axel on hard acceleration.It rattles like crazy.It is driving me
nuts.My service shop has tried 5 to 7 times over the last 3 years and cant
get it to quit rattling. If anyone is in the rear seat it will always rub
on axil.Is it because the factory springs are possibly sagging or is this
just a poor fit? PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM .It's so
bad I've thought of selling the car.(It makes it sound like a bug not a
sports car.)It is almost time for a new FREE FLOWING EXAUST SYSTEM.PLEASE
HELP ME. What will fix it? Or ,what system(brand) will work with a proper
fit?
Please give any help. Troy (bihifi123@aol)
I LOVE MY CORRADO,I WAN'T TO KEEP IT.
Article 52416 of rec.autos.vw:
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From: drbob27@aol.com (Drbob27)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: G60 survey - results
Date: 1 Mar 1995 18:01:38 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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First, the data, with only a simple statistical analysis.
24 total responses, 2 lost a charger, 4 had small pulleys, nobody with a
small
pulley lost a charger. For the 18 with original chargers and pulleys, the
average
mileage was 55,000 (range 26,000-90,000). At charger loss mileages were
26,000 and 45,000. Small pulley cars have an average mileage of 57,000
(25,000-82,000), with the small pulley used for an average mileage of
25,000
(16,000-44,000). Both chargers were replaced under warranty, only one
person
gave an estimate of $2600, parts and labor.
Now, my IMHO analysis. Charger loss is a small but significant
possibility.
Mileage is probably not the only important factor (If your chargers number
is
up...). No data on whether the charger has any lifespan, such as 100,000
miles,
as turbos seem to. Small pulleys do not radically (defined as an order of
magnitude) increase the probability of charger loss, but the data is too
sparse to
reveal even a major (factor of 4) impact on charger reliability.
Will post again if I get data that alters this picture much.
Bob
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Fri Mar 17 16:52 PST 1995
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Date: Fri, 17 Mar 1995 19:28:55 -0500 (EST)
From: mszlabow@newssun.med.miami.edu (Michal Szlabowicz - Med Student)
Subject: Q-Flow in my car (finally)
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Hey all (espacially Todd and Andy),
Well the Q-Flow finally made it here today without being squished by UPS.
It took less than 10 minutes to put it in my 1990 G60...(maybe I was rushing
and couldn't wait to start the car.) And...well when I cranked the car, it was
anticlimactic; no change from stock...thought to myself "$100 for this"...
So I decided to go for a test drive (let the car warm up to 180deg oil, as
I cleaned up my mess and old huge airbox). Then it came...I thought there was
someone next to me, but at about 3.5k you hear this sound that begs for more
gas, and you keep on giving it, until, well 6k comes around and you have to
shift, and then comes a surprise (it sounds like the car sighs) and you get
to go through this fun sound experience again.
On a more critical level though, the Q-flow is not audible (or very minor) if
the windows and the sunroof are rolled up, so should be good for long trips on
the Hwy, but then again I have the Leistritz "sport sound" exhaust, which by
no means is QUIET. The filter itself is a K&N, looks like an O (capital), ie
it is not a circle/ round cyllinder, but an O cyllinder (hope you understnd)
and comes with a connector and a bracket u-shaped that screws into where the
vaccuum pump is (under the now gone airbox), so far no rubbing, although the
filter is not in really tight, but I guess it's not supposed to. As for
throttle response, maybe (hopefully) there is a slight improivement, but
what I noticed is that when the supercharger kicks in at about 3k, the car
revs up a lot quicker in 1st gear than it used to, and is smoother over 5k.
Performance changes...I can't really tell...What I can say though, is that
I went for a 15 minute drive, and was gone for 75 mins, with a 23.1 ave mpg,
and I kept the car over 3k rpm most of the time...LOTS of fun....
Is it worth $100, I don't know, but I didn't want to spend $30 on a stock one.
And the sound is kind of fun...drove like a bat out of hell down Ocean Drive,
on Miami Beach, and people were turning their heads...I think I'm glad I got
it. Now if only my wrist pin(s) were not making noise!!!!!
Any q's just ask, hope this helps...
Mike
mszlabow@newssun.med.miami.edu
G60...it's NOT a turbo, it's a supercharger...
p.s. KEN G. if you are here, give me your e-mail address in a message...lot
cheaper than calling actually it's free :)
From csschan@cssmtpgw.comp.polyu.edu.hk Fri Mar 24 18:10 PST 1995
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Date: Sat, 25 Mar 1995 10:09:24 -0800 (PST)
From: csschan
Subject: Martti Mantyla
To: jan@UG.EDS.COM
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Dear Jan,
I am trying to get in touch with Martti Mantyla to ask him some
questions. Would you happen to know his address? especially e-mail or
fax number? Thanks.
-- Stephen
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Fri Mar 24 16:33 PST 1995
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Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 19:04:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Alex Lewin
Subject: Re: @#$!#$ Seatbelts, and other things.
In-Reply-To: <01HOID9UR4QQ005PQK@UG.EDS.COM>
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Having looked at
gopher://gopher.lap.umd.edu/00ftp%3aPublic%3avw_archives%3afaq.vw.tec
I've concluded that we want to convert all this to html, and where it
says, for instance:
Also suspect your shock if you hear an excessive amount of swishing.
we want to stick an audio file with the noise in it!!
Alex
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Fri Mar 24 18:37 PST 1995
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Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 18:20:29 -0800 (PST)
From: John Leipsic
Subject: Re: scary thought...
In-Reply-To: <9503250031.AA03400@newssun.med.miami.edu>
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On Fri, 24 Mar 1995, Michal Szlabowicz - Med Student wrote:
> I was shocked today when I was cleaning the enigine compartment, and since I
> have no more Airbox left after I got the Q-flow, I found "Made in Mexico"
> was. Is this really true? and does anone have Corrado built with at least one
> Mexican part in it? I bought the Corrado because I thought it was built by
>
> Would be interested to find how many other people have the same part.
>
Jan was the first to mention this "Hecho en Mexico" stamp beneath
the airbox. I removed my factory airbox to install a Neuspeed p-flo,
and sure enough, stamped right onto the body panel was "Hecho en Mexico."
We can rest assured that the assembly took place in Germany. Mine
has "Made in W. Germany" on the door post plaque. I wonder if the
stamp became "Made in Germany" after the fall of the wall in '90.
My cars were both made 11/89, as the wall was crumbling.
Speaking of body panels, I've checked out the new Golf and Jetta ///s,
and I'm afraid the body panels are just not as strong or thick as
the Corrado. At least they are not as bad as my old Hyundai, you
could crease a panel by looking at it the wrong way.
Incidentally, there is a difference with the p-flo. I find a quicker
throttle response at high rpms on my G60, like 3500 to 5000 rpms.
The sound is not really what I would describe as "sport growl" as
advertised. It is more of an exaggerated supercharger "whooooosh,
waaaawaaaaahaaaaaha." But it looks more trick in the engine bay.
Corrado: it's not just a Volkswagen, it's better than a Porsche.
John L
Article 54913 of rec.autos.vw:
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From: css2416@gl72.glade.yorku.ca (LUK KWOK )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] 90 G60 mod Questions
Date: 27 Mar 1995 17:59:36 GMT
Organization: York University, Ontario, Canada
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In article <3kep1t$ds2$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com> David Sumner
<73513.743@CompuServe.COM> writes:
> I m ready to start purchasing my 90 G60 Corrado upgrades. I was
> wondering if anybody cared to comment on the following items.
>
> 1. Eibach or Hor Technology springs?
> 2. Sway bar benefits?
> 3. Mintex brake pads, does the FF temp designation mean anything?
> Is there a major difference from plain old VW stock?
> 4. Are the aftermarker exhausts any wider than stock VW?
> Louder/Quieter?
> 5. Neuspeed vs. Autotech Camshaft? Why such a difference in
> price?
> 6. Is the Quaife Differential (Autotech catalog pg. 40) the
> answer to traction control?
> 7. Headlight mods? Does higher power require new relays?
> 8. Has anybody seen the 'Slower traffic move right' windshield
> sticker that was featured on the Porsche in European car in
> February (I think).
I drive a corrado VR6, and I have Neuspeed race springs, SPAX adjustable
shocks, Neuspeed swaybars(front and back), Neuspeed tower bar, Remus
exhaust.In terms of suspension, I really like the way it set up, because I
like it really stiff, since I often go to the race track for lapping. I
belive your G60 will handle as good as my VR6 if you put the same stuff in
your car. If you want to modify your engine, I will suggest you to
purchase the Neuspeed power kit, including their cam and their P-chip.
The stock exhaust from VW is a good one already no need to change. The
reason I change mine is because I like the Remus exhaust look.
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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 11:04:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jan Vandenbrande
Subject: Re: Advancing the timing?
In-Reply-To: <01HP6FKQCQ0I00QUJI@utrcgw.utc.com>; from "P. KUMMER" at Apr 10,
95 3:28 pm
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I am still wading through all my mail...geez I get WAY too much
mail (~150 msg a day).
> >I have found that you can manually advance the timing for some
> >more power. Even with the knock sensor max'ed out you are still below
> >knock range of premium gas.
> >Just a guess.
>
> How many degrees are you advancing the timing?
I think a tooth or two on the flywheel. Not sure how many degrees
that corresponds to.
> Is this on your stage III G60?
Yes.
> What kind of power gains are we talking here? (Best guess)
I was having a decrease of performance after I installed the Stage III
kit at the low end. This helped compensate for it.
I may have other problems that I have not figured out yet.
In my opinion, the "factory" settings are ok for unmodified new cars.
For older modified cars, the ignition requirements change
and probably the only good way to tune a car like that is
through a dyno tune. I just did it by ear.
> Is it worth the cost of premium? (I guess I'll have to decide this one!)
Stage III already requires premium. The low end is a bit weak,
still, but once it starts spinning, that G60 is like a rocket,
especially on the freeway. Just tap it and you see all the cars
that were next to you disappear in your rear view mirror.
> The only time I was able to get my G60 to knock was right after I changed the
> timing belt. I installed the new one, and took the car for a spin (before
> checking the timing). When I nailed it, the car exibited a slight knock (w/
> 87 octane). OK, so I checked & reset the timing, and now no more knock. I
> believe I have it set at 6 deg advance (per Bentley). I suppose theoretically,
> I could advance the timing & use premium for a little bit more power. But I
> don't imagine it's much. Comments? Is it worth wrestling with that #$&*ing
> bolt to loosen the distributor?
I'd go with the chips first. Yeah that bolt was a MAJOR pain to get at,
took me an hour.
--
o ___|___ [\\] | Jan Vandenbrande
__0 /\0/ /-------\ _ | jan@ug.eds.com
\<,_ O \\ (_________) .#/_\_. | "Aerodynamics are for people who
(_)/ (_) // [_] [_] |_(_)_| | cannot build engines" - Enzo Ferrari
Article 4472 of rec.autos.vw:
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: TURBO IN G60
Message-ID: <21761@comton.airs.com>
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Date: 14 Apr 95 02:35:58 GMT
References: <3m7dqu$1ge4@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca>
<3mjojn$7sg@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
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jamessly@aol.com (JamesSly) writes:
>Sounds like an interesting proposal. You could reroute the plumbing from
>the turbo to the intake of the intercooler and remove the bypass valve
>(needed only with a supercharger).
Actually, it would be a good idea to leave the bypass valve in the
circuit - my SAAB turbo has one to prevent the compressor from
stalling when the throttle is closed under boost, so when you get back
on it, you don't have to wait as long for the turbo to spool up.
These are a popular aftermarket item for other turbo cars that don't
have them, since it increases driveability.
--
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Boston, MA USA
Article 5081 of rec.autos.vw:
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Neuspeed VS "the others"
Message-ID:
From: jhamill@tiac.net (John Hamill)
Date: Sat, 22 Apr 1995 11:04:44
References: <3mup8t$8hv@diplomatic.passport.ca>
<3n9ldn$2o0@kelowna.awinc.com>
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In article <3n9ldn$2o0@kelowna.awinc.com> dmarshal@awinc.com (David) writes:
>In article , jhamill@tiac.net says...
>>
>>In article <3mup8t$8hv@diplomatic.passport.ca> senna@passport.ca (Jeff Heacock)
>>writes:
>I can't say anything about the cams but I bought an Imitation "P-Flo" from
>S.D.S. (K&N
>filter kit) for my Digifant 91 Jetta. I was not impressed. The neuspeed has a
>very nice bracket to hold the filer steady with. The S.D.S. kit had a
>flimsy piece ofmetal to try to hold it steady. I turned it into a project
>for the metal working shop at the>local
>high school... they did a much better job! If I had the time (and money) back
>again I'd buy the Neuspeed!
Problem is, Neuspeed doesn't make a P-flow for Digifant cars because
its a waste of time and money. A P-flow will do nothing for this engine
except make it real noisy. I would agree the extra cost of a lot of their
products are worth it in that they are generally well designed, but careful
shopping will sometimes find alternatives as better prices. You can also find
places like PlainWrap that offer all the Neuspeed stuff at generally 10% less.
I have been using the cams from AutoTech for years and never had a problem.
Why spend $179 for an APS G-60 cam when you can get it for $100 from AutoTech?
(with a lifetime warranty).
Article 5107 of rec.autos.vw:
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] 90 G60 mod Questions
Message-ID: <3mvi2a$1qrd@acs5.acs.ucalgary.ca>
From: whquek@acs.ucalgary.ca (Wei Hsiung Quek)
Date: 17 Apr 1995 23:18:02 -0600
References: <3mup8t$8hv@diplomatic.passport.ca>
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Lines: 14
neuspeed? no way man! go autothority stage II, slap on stainless
steel headers and free flowing cat back, drop in a shrick 260
and ka pow!!!! instant mustang killer!!!
trust me, i was and still is there.
wei quek
p.s. the neuspeed pflo did nothing other than waste my
$140. anyone know why? too close to supercharger and sucking
up the hot air????
wei quek
90 g60
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRIDE IN MY RIDE # 35 Date: 03-21-95, 14:14
Left by: BRIAN JOWETT
Sent to: ALL Status: Public
Topic: funeral
This is in memory of my 1990 Corrado G60. It had all the goodies a G60
owner could want.
The engine had Nuespeeds HP kit, chip, 260 camshaft, K&N filter, and my
own custom Intercoler. It came out of a, ahem, Renault fuego. It was
slightly larger than stock, but it had a highspeed fan that came on
above 5 pounds of boost. It worked awsome, and the fan was great on the
hot summer days.
The chassis had all the usual stuff. Sofsport springs, 22/25 swaybars,
Boge shocks, front and rear stress bars (all Nuespeed), VW Motorsport
A-arm bushings, and VR6 strutbearings. 15 inch TSW Evo wheels with
205/50 BFG Comp TA IIIs kept it glued to the road.
European Headlights (get them if you can, they are F'n awsome) rounded
out the mods.
In the works was a 16V conversion (I still have the motor if anyone
wants it. check my add in classified.) .
Unfortunatly last October a fuel line blew. By the time the fire
department got there my Alpine White G60 was char black. Most of the
accessories were detstroyed.
Luckily I had receipts so Mr. Insurance Man had no choice but to cough
up most of what I had into the car.
Many a Mustang GT and Camaro Z must of pondered why all they saw was my
tailpipe. Not to mention the early 80's 911s who wondered why that VW
symbol that so sudenly apeared in their rearview could not be shaken
off.
My car was great. I miss it.
All is not lost though. My new project is a 93 VR6 Corrado. with more
potential than the G60 had, this project will be
PRIDE IN MY RIDE # 37 Date: 04-03-95, 11:45
Left by: BRIAN JOWETT Replied # 36
Sent to: VANDENBRANDE Status: Public
Topic: funeral Rcvd: No
You can mount it in the stock location, but its a bitch to make the
mounts to hold it in place. I finally moved my battery to the trunk to
make room under the hood. Now there are two ways to get air to it. Top
( yuky taky hood scoop
but is easy ) or bottom ( nobody will know but you ). The second way is
the way I finally decided on. You have to cut a large hole where the
battery use to be which isn't much harder than cutting one for a yuky
taky hood scoop. Oh yeah, you have to go to the salvage yard first! Find
a Reanalt Fuego turbo if you can. You will find the intercooler on the
pasenger side. On the same side mounted to the front of the strut tower
are three pressure switches with various hoses and wires coming out of
them. I don't remember exactly which one you need. So take all three!
One is set to trigger at five pounds. The other two are over boost
switches for the turbo, and are set at somthing like 20 PSI and
obviously won't work scince you only have 14.5. You will figure out
which one by wether or not your fan works. The swithes have a small
screw in the top which I never messed with but may allow you to adjust
the pressure at which the switch operates. Anyways, you have to make
your own ducting to feed cold air to the intercooler. Be creative. You
can use most of the factory intake to plumb the intercooler. Although I
used a the aluminum pipe from a Saab turbo to attach the G-charger to
the intercooler. Ok you also have to plumb in the pressure switch.
Actually, on the Renault the aluminum pipe that crosses over the valve
cover has the a nipple for the hose that leads to the presure switch.
you need the nipple and you can folow the hose to the correct switch.
Well I've draged on long enough. you should be able to figure how to
wire and plumb everthing by looking at the renualt. Use your imagination
these projects should be fun, Good luck!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 04 May 1995 13:04:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jan Vandenbrande
Subject: Re: Stage 1 chip
In-Reply-To: <199505041337.IAA27296@mixcom.mixcom.com>; from
"Steven M. Kosloske" at May 04, 95 8:37 am
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> The time has come to get a performance chip for my G60. I know Jan rates the
> APE chip the highest, and I agree by what I've read, I don't want to spend
> $375 for the chip. Neuspeed and several others make a stage 1 chip for $250,
> and I don't think the APE chip is that much better to be worth 50% more.
> I'd like to hear opinions on what is the next best chip. Thanks.
Actually, John Hamill tried both kits and liked the APE one the best for
a variety of reasons (less noisy, more power, but less driveable).
However, in the mean time APS has done some more twiddling and may
have a chip with better throttle responce. Aaron figured out a way
to control the Airbypass valve better or something.
But in any case, the thing to keep in mind is where you think you may
end up.
Also don't buy from APE but from AT. I bought all my upgrades
during their yearly sales (June 24 this year) and after the initial
St1 only paid something like 100$ for the Stage II, 80$ for the cam,
and 100 for the chip upgrade (not on sale).
Can't remember how much I paid for St1, but it was a tad more than the rest.
Don't forget AMS, he's supposedly also coming out with a kit.
Try to sweet talk Marc into giving you a good price and that you'll review
it on the Internet ;->
A PS to all: If you have the power/torque numbers for the APS PChip,
I'll be more than glad to add them to my table.
Also feel free to verify the numbers I have.
--
o ___|___ [\\] | Jan Vandenbrande
__0 /\0/ /-------\ _ | jan@ug.eds.com
\<,_ O \\ (_________) .#/_\_. | "Trust only those statistics
(_)/ (_) // [_] [_] |_(_)_| | you falsified yourself" - W. Churchill
From briang@netmanage.com Wed Jun 14 13:45 PDT 1995
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 12:14:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: briang@netmanage.com
Subject: G-60
To: jan@UG.EDS.COM
Message-Id:
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Status: RO
I sent this to someone and decided to pass it along to you as well.
BTW a neat tip. Take out the plastic splash gaurd from the drivers side front
wheel well. Then measure where the intercooler sits in front of it. Use this to
mark the plastic gaurd. Then using a ruler mark a grid 4"h x 6"w or larger on the
plastic. Lines should be 3/4" apart. THen using a 3/8"bit, drill holes on the
intersections. Clean holes. Replace splash guard. Instant extra cooling and 3-4hp
on hard highway driving!
The holes will look like this:
| <==fender edge
| o o o o o o o
| o o o o o o o
| o o o o o o o
| o o o o o o o
|
-------------------------------------
Name: Brian Griffith
E-mail: briang@netmanage.com
Date: 01/25/95
Time: 19:42:00
"Is that there one of them Porshez?"
This message was sent by Chameleon
-------------------------------------
From briang@netmanage.com Wed Jun 14 16:16 PDT 1995
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 15:53:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: briang@netmanage.com
Subject: RE: G-60 (fwd)
To: Jan Vandenbrande
Message-Id:
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On Wed, 14 Jun 1995 15:12:31 -0700 (PDT) Jan Vandenbrande wrote:
>Congrats, you made it to the G60_Power_Upgrades hall of fame ;->
>
>Does the Intercooler get any dirtier with these holes.
Nope. Actually I haven't had to clean it out as much. Used to be that mud would
collect in the channels. Now it seems the extra air flow pushs it through. I'm
going to take pictures of the process and scan them sometime soon.
>
>PS: Another trick I read about (on a BiTurbo) is to use water
>nossles to cool the intercooler on hard acceleration.
Haven't tried it but I saw the article in EC.
I'll send you more stuff as I tinker with my car.
-------------------------------------
Name: Brian Griffith
E-mail: briang@netmanage.com
Date: 01/25/95
Time: 19:42:00
"Is that there one of them Porshez?"
This message was sent by Chameleon
-------------------------------------
From ep502ca@pts.mot.com Mon Jul 12 13:00 PDT 1993
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 15:55:48 -0500 (EST)
From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Re: [W] Wetting Agent (Redline)
To: jan@UG.EDS.COM
Message-Id: <9307122055.AA01053@pts4.pts.mot.com>
X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
Status: RO
Yes the car is more fun to drive. I still haven't tried the SLC yet...
Maybe I'm afraid I'll like it more. And I must admit that the car
is rarely driven with less than half throttle now and I usually cruise
80+ on the highway. The stage three cam has only a little more overlap
than stock so it shouldn't greatly impact the mileage. If you drive the
car easy (55-60) then it will get almost 30mpg. But this is very hard to
do. I usually find myself whipping in and out of traffic at speeds much
greater than the limit. If you have a stage 3 and are getting 30mpg then
you didn't need it to start with.
Now if I could only figure how to fix the "self-intersecting topology"
error I'm getting. I wish Clive Sandhurst was still here....
Chuck
From ep502ca@pts.mot.com Mon Jun 14 13:20 PDT 1993
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1993 16:11:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Stage 3 kit
To: jan@lipari.usc.edu
Message-Id: <9306142011.AA26319@pts4.pts.mot.com>
X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
Status: RO
Jan,
Well I finally got my car running good (?). My first comment is that even
with 200+ hp I think the Corrado could use more power. Is it fun to drive?
Yes. On curvy roads the car is probably a blast. For straight lines it needs
to either go on a diet or gain some more power. My big problem appeared to
be nothing more than engine timing. I was running 8-9 degrees retarded. I had
a friend drive the car and his comment was that he though the car was too fast
and that it had too much body roll. I'll agree with the body roll but I guess
it's like anything else. After awhile you get used to the speed and it seems
slow. He thought the car felt like it had an easy 200 hp. Oh well..now if I
can fix the oil leaks the rattles and the strange noise from the back strut.
And what about the way the exhaust noise changes (gets deper) when you hit
a bump or have 2 or more people in the car??
Can you resuse the valve cover gaskets or do you shell out $26 everytime the
cover is off?
I sympathise for all those people who said their stage 2 Corrados were increadibly
fast. Yeah maybe compared to my 59 bug. I guess driving a 944 turbo with
a modified engine (300+ hp) spoiled me. Looks like the Corrados for sales as the Porsche has been offered to me cheap. Hell, they don't cost anymore to maintain.
Parts for VWs are outrageous (just like the Porsche). Might as well stick with
the beter car if they're going to cost the same to keep on the road....
Chuck
,,,
(. .)
__________________________________.oOO--(_)--OOo.___________________________
| |
| _ /| Chuck Actor ------- __o |
| \`0_o'' Oop, ep502ca@pts.mot.com ------- _`\<,_ |
| -( )= Ack! Motorola Paging - Boynton Beach, FL ------- (*)/ (*) |
| U (407)364-2069 fax (407)364-2028 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
|____________________________________________________________________________|
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Jul 3 21:03 PDT 1995
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 1995 00:00:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: More Corrado Mods
In-Reply-To: <9507032313.AA05829@newssun.med.miami.edu>
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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I had a renault turbo intercooler in my G60 which came with a high speed
fan that came on above 4 psi. That was an involved project. You prbably
could find a fan to fit the stock cooler somehow. I was talking with
Turbo Tim about it awhile back. Arron at Nuespped was thinking about a
fan kit along time ago but droped the idea.
You can cut a hole behind the intercooler to help improve airflow.
Although I don't really know if it helps. Some people say that once you
get going, high pressure builds in front of the tire and prevents much
air from flowing through. ABT included a vent in their G60 hop up kit, so
I don't know, maybe it does help. Anyway, if you think your up to some
fabricating, I'll give you some more info on thr intercooler setup that I
had, or maybe I'll brainstorm a little bit on installing a fan on the
stock cooler. There's alot that can be done. later
Brian 93 VR6
> Re: the intercooler
fan >
> I am interesting in modifing the intercooler on my g60, especially since I live
> in Florida, and it is very hot here during the summer, and the car is SLOW!
> Any info would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Later,
> Mike
> mszlabow@newssun.med.miami.edu
>
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Jul 3 09:10 PDT 1995
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 1995 11:58:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: More Corrado Mods
In-Reply-To: <9507031358.AA01880@newssun.med.miami.edu>
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I saw a G60 at the shows that has done this mod. He did it himself
though. It was not the Nuespeed kit. He ran a hose from the boost valve
to the t-body hose just like in the picture. You can also adjust the
bypass valve for more part throttle boost, your gas mileage may suffer
accordingly ( Rallye Golfs don't even have the bypass valve ).
Another mod you may want to try is a high speedfan for the intercooler. I
had a custom cooler on my G60 that had a fan, worked great. later
Brian 93 VR6
>
> I was reading through the new EC and noticed the review of th "Corrado Gen2
> Fuel Enrichment" Package from APS...
> I talked to Aaron @ Neuspeed a few months back about this product, and he
> was very optimistic about the gains that it produces in a 40k+ mile old
> Corrado since the bypass valve for the boost starts getting sloppy...
> What he also said, and it isn't in the article, that there is/will be a way to
> tweak the new valve close later than normal---->more boost without a smaller
> pulley on some corrados! He mentioned that you need to have a less restrictive
> intake (as in a P/Q Flow)...
> Has anyone tried it yet?????? At $199 it doesn't seem bad, if it does what all
> of the above...
>
> Tim:::I have made the mistake of getting the BOGEprogas for my G60 (guy at
> Autotech said that his boss has them on his Corrado and they are great) and the
> rears didn't fit with lowered Ho:r springs so I put in the stock ones in the
> back...My Q...the progas shocks are valved soft and then hard when the piston
> moves out of the "comfort" zone but they are made for STOCK A2, and since the
> car is lower (mine is) the ride is very harsh, and in turns, one side moves
> into the "comfort" setting (as the wt goes to the other side of the car) and
> the car feels very un-Corrado like...(I told my mechanic that I should have
> bought the Konis!!! and saved some money by not buying the progas and soon the
> Konis...) Maybe I should just get the TurboGas (which are the stock shocks)?
>
>
> On a more positive note....I put a Mustang 5.0 to shame (it surprised me!)
> I was going on the on ramp on the hwy, and he (late 80's convertible) gets
> right up my bumper (I was going 30 on the ramp) so I pull off to the slow
> lane and look over (this guy looks at the Corrado like it's a spaceship) he signals as if he wants to race so I nodded my head, but thought that it would be
> close...We are going at about 45 at this time...We take off, and we are even up
> to about 70 and then I start to get ahead...at 100 he is 5+ car lengths back..
> I keep on going until 125...and he is nowhere to be seen :) I slowed down to
> 70 and he was back soon afterwards...I was feeling lucky at this time so I
> signal for us to race again...but he doesn't want to!!!!!!!
>
>
> well enough...
>
> Mike
> mszlabow@newssun.med.miami.edu
>
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sun Jul 2 19:04 PDT 1995
Date: Sun, 02 Jul 1995 20:59:04 -0500
From: stevek@execpc.com (Steven M. Kosloske)
Subject: Corrado G60 mods
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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Did the mods on my `90 G60 today. I bought a Stage 1 Chip from AutoTech for
$275, and the K&N filter for $42, $10 for shipping. Also got a Euro-Sport
exhaust system from EuroSport Accessories for $195+$20 shippiing.
Did the filter first. I would suggest taking the whole air box out if you
want to do this, the clips are impossible to get off with the airbox in
the car. Remove the air intake from the G-Charger (mine had a little oil in
it) and the 2 vacuum lines from the back. There is a rubber band on the
inside and back of the box to hold it down. Pop those off and it slides
out. Saw the "Made in Mexico" stamp on the metal under the box. Pop the 4
clips and put in the new filter. Close the clips, drop it in, put the 2
bands back on, and reconnect the 2 lines and air intake. Done. Took about
half hour because I tried to get just the clips off, and also washed out the
airbox. If I did it again, I could do it in 15 minutes easy.
Next was the exhaust. Started by putting the car up on ramps and took off
the clamp at the back of the cat. and bewteen the 2 mufflers. Tried to pry
off the hangers, but it's too difficult, the the new system included all the
hardware, so I just cut the old ones off. Had to cut the pipe in back of
the suitcase muffler and pulled the rear off. The rear muffler was in
pretty good shape, and the exhaust pipes are really thick steel. Next I
cut the front hangers off and dropped the pipe and suitcase muffler. The
muffler had a lot of ruse and few holes, which is why I did this in the
first place, it was getting annoying. The OEM exhaust system is really
heavy, I probably dropped 50 pounds with the new one. The Euro-Sport system
has, in order from the front after the cat., a glass pack resonator,
crossover pipe, turbo rear muffler and tail pipe. All clamps and hangers
are included. The instructions are pretty poor, and I found that the best
way to put it together is to put the pieces on from front to back, pounding
them on one by
one, then putting the clamps on after it's all together. I cut about 4" off
the tail pipe since it stuck out further than the bumper, and it was all
installed correctly. Not sure if it was supposed to be like that, or if I
got the wrong tail pipe, but it looks cool cut short. Sticks out about as
far as OEM, but it's silver. The entire system is 14g steel, pretty big
pipes compared to the OEM system, and "aluminized". It's a pretty good
system for $200. Especially considering the OEM system is $1000.
As for sound, it's definately louder than stock. It has that glass-pack
muffler rumble at idle, and has a louder tone as you accellerate, but only
at the beginning, as you get up to about 25 MPH and let off on the gas, it's
about the same, maybe a little louder than stock. With the windows rolled
up, no radio on, you can only hear it at idle and when you first pump it.
Overall I'm pretty happy with it so far. It took about 2.5 hours to do the
whole thing. A lot of the time was getting the new pipes to fit, they're
really tight.
Last I did the chip. What a job. Took me about 60-75 minutes, I didn't
time it. The instructions are pretty poor, they should include some simple
pictures. First you pry up the cover over the "brain" and remove the cover
over the air intake. It took me about 10 minutes extra to clean it out.
There was about a whole tree worth of leaves stuck in there. I'm going to
start cleaning this out regularly now. After pulling out the intake cover,
you remove one nut for the box frame, pull one vacuum line and snap off the
main electrical cable. (anyone know what the vacuum line is for?) After
this, patience is neccessary, since you have to slide the box and it's metal
frame to the outside of the engine compartment then pull it out. It's a
trick taking it out.
Next you take out 2 screws to get the box off, then 7 screws to open the
box. Next comes the what I thought was the hardest part, getting the
stupid plastic clips off the IC board. Take out 5 screws to get the RF
shield off
the chip, pull the chip, put in the new one and put it all back together.
Again it's tricky shoving it back in the car. Once it's in, it's pretty
easy to reconnect it all and finish. Luckily it started back up so it seems
everything works.
I love the difference in the ride. I haven't done the after measurements
yet, but the car seems to have the pull at 2500RPM that it used to have at
3500, which is a big difference. Maybe I think I feel it since I'm pretty
excited about the whole thing, but it's definately better. I'll get the
"after" times done in the next couple days and post them.
Start to finish the whole job took 4 hours. I wasn't rushing and took a few
breaks. If you have all the right tools and manuals you could do it all in
3 hours easy.
Now the car is lighter (only by about 50 pounds), faster and louder. Next
step is new springs and shocks, but I'll wait till the stock ones are bad.
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Jul 24 23:54 PDT 1995
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 1995 12:36:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: kta@nuchat.sccsi.com (Karl Thompson Kta Associates)
Subject: Re: Gen 2 Fuel Enrichment for G60
In-Reply-To: <01HT3QHM686A002NU0@UG.EDS.COM> from "Jan Vandenbrande" at Jul 20,
95 06:51:19 pm
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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> I have a similar question except that I am running stage III (APE, not
> Neuspeed). My problem is throttle responce...power is there, but
> it takes a while for the thing to "wake up" when I push down
> the accelerator (that's so great about the VR6).
>
> Does anyone else have this problem?
>
I have the Autotech stage II, and have had the same problem. Even before I put
in the stage II, it would hesitate before ~3000 rpm. The strange thing
is, sometimes it wouldn't. Shifting from 1-2 the boost would stay up on occasion
but usually just bog a little. Stage II helped a lot, but the basic problem
remained. The boost just would't go above 5 lbs (stock) until a certain rmp,
then the car would take off.
Going by what was said in EC about the kit, I went about trying out some mods.
The idea is to prevent the idle/boost valve from venting the bypass tube into
the exhaust manifold. So I tried the following:
1. Disconnect the plug on the valve. Theory: the valve is at some closed
position(I hoped!) and the ECU will open it up screwing up boost. The problem
is that it is not closed fully, loosing some boost. Max boost is no longer
limited at redline (6200) but keeps climbing -> 14.5 psi!
2. Undo the hose to the bypass tube, plug the bypass tube, reconnect
the connector to the idle valve. Bad idea. Drove just like normal, except
for a whoosh when I exceeded max boost (as det. by ECU).
3. Plug both bypass tube outlet and idle valve inlet. I think that this
accomplishes the same thing as Neuspeed's kit except for idle behavior.
I had to use the idle screw to keep the thing from stalling. I now get
max boost past redline, and it seems to give me more boost at low rmp's also.
Also, the throttle response seems much more linear at lower rmps.
As for the fuel enrichment, I'm of the opinion that it's needed for their
kit since they kludged a fix in the first place. The Autotech does fuel
enrichment through the ECU, and should be ok. A new sensor is not going
to allow more fuel through the same injectors, etc. Besides, they put it
in for part-throttle boost. I hardly ever get part throttle boost, except
cruising at say 100mph. Not worth $200 for the air bypass setup alone.
I've only had this mod for 1 day so I'll keep you posted.
-maurice (90 G60)
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Tue Jul 25 17:27 PDT 1995
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 1995 12:57:54 -0400
From: davidtam@interlog.com (David K. Tam)
Subject: Re: Gen 2 Fuel Enrichment for G60
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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>> I have a similar question except that I am running stage III (APE, not
>> Neuspeed). My problem is throttle responce...power is there, but
>> it takes a while for the thing to "wake up" when I push down
>> the accelerator (that's so great about the VR6).
>>
>> Does anyone else have this problem?
>>
>
I just got off the phone with Aaron at Neuspeed asking him about the fuel
enrichment kit. First of all it was really nice for him to return my call, I
never expected it and he call me twice to get to me here in Canada. My
question was what the kit would really do for my Stage I G60. The answer was
throttle response for all G60 from stock to Stage III cars for both APS and
APE kits. I am not going into details, he pretty well said what was written
in EC. I am going to give it a try, if anyone gets this kit earlier give us
a response/comment on the Corrado list.
Regards.
David
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Wed Jul 26 11:36 PDT 1995
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 1995 12:40:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Pete Kummer
Subject: Help with APS Fuel Enrichment Kit
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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Could someone please explain to me how the APS fuel enrichment kit
works? I've read and reread the EC article, and am still bamboosled!
It looks like the kit rerouts the intake to teh idle stab from the
bypass duct to the boost duct. I am guessing that the pressure the idle
stab "feels" will be greater now. Is this true? How does this help?
And then there's the fuel enrichment "hobbs switch". What's that?
I understand (from the article that this adds fuel during high boost
non-full throttle conditions. Do I need this even though I don't have
a smaller pulley?
Also, there is an adjustment for the boost bypass valve, but bentley
says "do not change from factory position", but then goes on to tell
how to check & change using some funky protractor & arrow. Anyway,
has anyone ever fooled with this to increase boost by preventing the
valve from opening at "factory" positon?
One more thing, in EC, is says that the idle stab can be adjusted to
some extent, but this new kit bypasses it all together. Does anyone
know what this "adjustment" entails? Can I get away with adjusting this
valve & not shelling out 200 bucks for a lousy t-fitting a ft long piece
of hose, some tie-wraps and a relay switch (I think that's what that
"Hobbs" switch is).
Thanks in advance.
Pete Kummer
s31207%mother@utrcgw.utc.com
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Jul 31 15:51 PDT 1995
Date: Sun, 30 Jul 1995 13:43:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: kta@nuchat.sccsi.com (Karl Thompson Kta Associates)
Subject: Re: Help with APS Fuel Enrichment Kit
In-Reply-To: <01HTBQU7XY4200EPXW@utrcgw.utc.com> from "Pete Kummer" at Jul 26,
95 12:40:13 pm
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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>
> Could someone please explain to me how the APS fuel enrichment kit
> works? I've read and reread the EC article, and am still bamboosled!
> It looks like the kit rerouts the intake to teh idle stab from the
> bypass duct to the boost duct. I am guessing that the pressure the idle
This is true. The bypass tube "T" is plugged, as well. (where the hose to
the idle stab. used to go)
> stab "feels" will be greater now. Is this true? How does this help?
Letting air through the bypass tube into the intake reduces boost. The valve
opens up when the ECU thinks you don't need any more boost. By taking the bypass
tube out of the loop (the valve at the throttle body is closed at full throttle)
boost is maximized.
The only reason the idle valve gets its air from the boost tube is for idle
control.
> And then there's the fuel enrichment "hobbs switch". What's that?
> I understand (from the article that this adds fuel during high boost
> non-full throttle conditions. Do I need this even though I don't have
> a smaller pulley?
Maybe, but I can't see a high boost part-throttle situation. The boost does
not occur until the last 1/2 inch of gas pedal position, anyway. At full
throttle the microswitch on the throttle body enriches the mixture, so
if you want to go fast, floor it. (Maybe in autocross things are different)
>
> Also, there is an adjustment for the boost bypass valve, but bentley
> says "do not change from factory position", but then goes on to tell
> how to check & change using some funky protractor & arrow. Anyway,
> has anyone ever fooled with this to increase boost by preventing the
> valve from opening at "factory" positon?
No, but I think that you can change the point at which boost occurs. My
worry is that by adjusting it too far, the valve opens again at full throttle,
limiting boost.
>
> One more thing, in EC, is says that the idle stab can be adjusted to
> some extent, but this new kit bypasses it all together. Does anyone
> know what this "adjustment" entails? Can I get away with adjusting this
> valve & not shelling out 200 bucks for a lousy t-fitting a ft long piece
> of hose, some tie-wraps and a relay switch (I think that's what that
> "Hobbs" switch is).
I haven't tried adjusting the valve, but did bypass it altogether for $0.
What i did was insert a plug into the bypass tube where the hose to the
idle stab. hooks up. Then I put the hose back on. The effect is the same
as just plugging up the hose. That way no air can come into the air stab or
out of the bypass tube. Has the same effect as the kit (w/out fuel enrichment,
which I don't think is necessary @full throttle). I did have to adjust the
idle screw (on the back of the intake manifold) to keep it from stalling. This
is why they use the boost tube to supply air to the stab. valve. I'm going
to do this as soon as I get some time, but for now I know what $200 buys.
Boost is much more consistent, and a little higher as well. Boost does not
drop at redline, but keeps going. I can now crawl along at 1500 rmp in 1st
without bobbing my head back and forth, too. It's worth the trouble, and
you can't beat the price.
-maurice (90 G60)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Pete Kummer
> s31207%mother@utrcgw.utc.com
>
>
Article 1363 of rec.autos.vw:
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Power Chips for Corrados
Message-ID: <3vk661$5la$3@mhade.production.compuserve.com>
From: Randy <76412.3441@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 1 Aug 1995 03:14:09 GMT
References:
Organization: CompuServe, Inc. (1-800-689-0736)
Lines: 5
With the G60, the Autothority Chip is much better than the
Neuspeed. (it's cheaper through Autotech) I've never compared
two VR6 chips, but the Autothority I did try and it makes some
difference though nowhere like the enormous difference the G60
chip makes.
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Tue Aug 22 09:15 PDT 1995
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 09:08:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jan Vandenbrande
Subject: G60 Idle By Pass stuff
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By now most of us have heard of Aaron new "Generation 2" Idle
by pass doo hickey to alleviate the idle bypass valve leaks
robbing us of our much needed power.
Apparently, Dana of Autotech is working on something similar.
All it is, is a one way valve that you insert between the idle
valve and the high pressure side (or something) rather than
Aaron's by pass system.
They both would seem to achieve the same result in different ways.
Not a plug for either one, just want y'all to be informed about
the alternatives and what's cooking, don't know which works "best".
--
o ___|___ [\\] | Jan Vandenbrande jan@ug.eds.com
__0 /\0/ /-------\ _ | http://alicudi.usc.edu:80/~jan/
\<,_ O \\ (_________) .#/_\_. | "Aerodynamics are for people who
(_)/ (_) // [_] [_] |_(_)_| | cannot build engines" - Enzo Ferrari
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Wed Aug 23 09:55 PDT 1995
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 12:40:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alex Lewin
Subject: Neuspeed vs. APE: followup
In-Reply-To: <9508231625.AA00403@kojak.vgi.com>
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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A few days ago, I posted something about my understanding of the
differences between the Neuspeed and APE Stage II kits.
Imagine my surprise when I picked up the phone just now, and it was Aaron
Neumann from Neuspeed!
He took a nice chunk of time to provide me a wonderfully detailed
explanation of what's going on with the ECU, valves, Neuspeed Stage II,
etc.. I am grateful to him for this, even more so because his only
motivation was setting the record straight, since I already have the APE
stuff!
My previous understanding was just plain *wrong*. Apologies to him, and
also to those who listened too closely to what I said.
Here's a summary of what he told me, to the best of my understanding.
For anyone who wants the real story, he encourages you to *call him*.
1. Different chips for different pulleys and cams shouldn't be necessary.
Any G60 chip encodes a 16 x 16 matrix, with RPM on the horiz axis and
manifold pressure (vacuum to boost) on the vertical axis, so the same chip
can give different results depending on boost & RPM.
2. Neuspeed kit does not trick the "cold start valve". According to
Aaron, there is no cold start valve on the G60--the cold start valve
existed only on CIS mechanical FI systems. (Don't know where I got this
idea. Anyone else heard this?)
3. Stock fuel pressure regulator is more than sufficient even with the
smaller pulley.
Alex
Here is my original, somewhat misguided post:
WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG
WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG
> To: corrado-l@teleport.com, danny@ikos.com
> Subject: Re: chip and other stuff
> Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: corrado-l@teleport.com
>
> Dany Khalil sez:
>
> > I have a stock G60 and was wondering if anyone recommends
> > a stage I upgrade over another. I read the faq and I can't
> > find what I am looking for. the APE chip is $375 and
> > neuspeed is $255. is the APE worth the 120 bucks extra??
> > now, regardless of price, can anyone recommend one chip
> > (based on personal experience say)?
>
> I had the APE chip ("Stage I") for a while. Now I have the APE Stage II, which
> consists of a smaller pulley, a higher-pressure fuel pressure regulator, and a
> different chip.
>
> Stage I alone made a BIG difference in drivability and fahrfergnuegen. Made a
> noticeable difference in performance, too. Easy enough to install, once you get
> the $!@%^! clips off the HVAC air intake.
>
> I have no experience with the Neuspeed chip.
>
> I am inclined to believe, however, that the APE chip would work better, based
> on the fact that APE sells different chips to you depending on whether you have
> a smaller pullley, different cam, etc., whereas Neuspeed is "one chip fits all".
> Also, the APE Stage II increases fuel flow with the higher-pressure FPR, which
> is what the Bosch FI book suggests, whereas the Neuspeed kit increases fuel flow
> by tricking the cold start valve, which the Bosch FI book *specifically*
> recommends *against*.
WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG
WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Wed Aug 23 09:53 PDT 1995
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 12:41:15 -0400
From: TurboTim@aol.com
Subject: Re: chips from APE and Neuspeed G-60
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In a message dated 95-08-22 11:38:08 EDT, Alex writes:
>I am inclined to believe, however, that the APE chip would work better,
based
>on the fact that APE sells different chips to you depending on whether you
>have a smaller pullley, different cam, etc., whereas Neuspeed is "one chip
fits
>all".
This is a great way to sell chips. APE gets you to buy 3 different chips when
you only need one. APE many years back started with very agressive timing in
their chips and depended on the knock system to take care of the detonation.
This did not work and is why many people complained about pinging with APE
chips. Over the years they have slowly become more conservative and now have
timing values close to the same as Neuspeeds. Neuspeed designed their chip to
work with 92 octane fuel and their timing advance allows you to use 1 chip
for all stages. The factory chip is designed to be able to run 14 psi as
there are fuel value's built into it to allow it to provide enough fuel at
that boost. What the chip does is increase timing and some fuel to help cool
combustion temps which are caused by the increased boost. If any of you are
so convinced that the APE chip is so much better I will send you a Neuspeed
chip to try in your G-60. Try it for a few weeks and then put your old one
back in and send the Neuspeed one back. We are also looking for anyone with a
APE chip in their G-60 who lives close to ND to come down and have us do a
back to back test. We need one that has the stage 2 or 3 kit. We will also
test the pressure regulator so you need to have your stock one also.
Neuspeeds believes there is no need for the regulator as the G-60 was
designed as a supercharged system and most of the car models tuners are
changing them on are aftermarket turbo's or superchargers added to a system
that was normally aspirated. The fuel values are in the chip and the system
stock is already designed to deliver enough fuel. There are even enough fuel
values in the stock program to be increased for a 2.0 liter engine. Raising
the pressure also increases the chance of leaks and fire. The Bosch regulator
APE uses boost the pressure about .5 bar.
>Also, the APE Stage II increases fuel flow with the higher-pressure FPR,
which
is what the Bosch FI book suggests, whereas the Neuspeed kit increases fuel
flow
by tricking the cold start valve, which the Bosch FI book *specifically*
recommends *against*.
Corrado's do not use cold start valves and the Bentley book was most likely
refering to CIS systems or for non-boosted factory systems where the pressure
may help.
The enrichment set-up from Neuspeed takes care of the lean fuel condition
between part throttle and full throttle. The bypass tube prevents boost
leakage at the idle stabalizer valve, up to 2 psi more boost is possible. See
the August issue of European car pg.62 on the Gen2 update.
**TT**
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sun Aug 27 22:14 PDT 1995
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 01:13:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: APS Stage II HP kit installed but...
In-Reply-To: <199508272336.TAA12615@gold.interlog.com>
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>
> Just installed my Stage II kit yesterday. After driving it for a day it
> feels like I brought a new car, the throttle response and power is amazing.
> There is just one problem. Occasionally at 1/2 or full throttle the
> power/boost seems to cut off for a split of a second and then kick in
> again. It feels like a turbo lack but I can feel the lost of power before it
> kicks in. I have disconnected the battery hoping to reset the computer for
> the added boost but the problem still exist. Has anyone experienced this or
> any suggestions?
I also experienced this on my G60 when i installed the kit. You have to
adjust a screw on the Hobbs switch that came with the kit. Call Aaron and
he'll tell you exactly what you have to do. I think the engine is cutting
the fuel off because it senses the motor going past the factories max.
boost setting. Easy fix.
Brian 93 VR6
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Tue Sep 5 12:50 PDT 1995
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Date: Tue, 05 Sep 1995 13:54:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: Rally Golf Intercooler
In-Reply-To: <950905011755_11168090@mail06.mail.aol.com>
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I just recieved EC. That G60 GTI was at Waterfest 95. Very nicly put
together if I recall corectly. The intercooler he has was for G60 GTIs
with AC. The real Rallye Golf intercooler is very large (about the size
of your radiator) and mounts up ahead of the radiator. Also required to
fit it is the speacial Rallye Golf grill.
In hindsight, I guess my custom cooler was not all that easy to install.
It took some time. I wish somone would come out with a highspeed fan for
the stock cooler. My fan really did work, helped alot at those
stoplights.
Brian 93 VR6
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Tue Sep 5 11:04 PDT 1995
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Date: Tue, 05 Sep 1995 13:44:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: Sluggish acceleration
In-Reply-To: <01HUW83Q5H1E00501I@UG.EDS.COM>
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> > I noticed that too ...Here in South Fla, wherre the humidity is 70-100%
> > and temps in the summera are in the 90's, the G60 feels really slow! I
>
> A hot day will slow down a G60 a bit.
> Did you ever touch those tubes coming out of the G60 after a good
> drive? HOT, very HOT.
>
> Has anyone looked into those exhaust manifold wraps that will leave the
> engine bay cooler? (See latest issue of Compact Sports Car or something
> like it).
I also wrapped all the intake tubes with this insulated foil type stuff.
The bypass tube is particularly important because it passes very close to
the exaust manifold, thuss picking up even more heat. Can't say what the
power gains are, but you'll find most turbo charged racers do it. I never
got around to trying the exaust wrap, I think most cars would beniftit
though.
Brian 93 VR6
>
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Wed Sep 6 00:48 PDT 1995
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Date: Wed, 06 Sep 1995 00:39:20 -0700
From: radog60@ix.netcom.com (Qui Le )
Subject: Re: Neuspeed gen2 kit
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I didn't experience 'HUGE
>CHANGES' but I do feel a subtle difference. Is it worth it? Um...
not
>sure.
Ditto with Tom there, I too did not feel any major differences. But
then I didn't think that I could get my car to do any better. With 80K
and AT Stage II it's sooo smooooth and rev happy already(knock on
wood). Whether or not it's worth it depends on the outcome of the
installation. Judging by the diversity of impressions, seems like one
will never really know until he/she put's the a kit on.
>BTW, what are any possible complications we gen2-equipped G-60's might
>encounter? Is something getting stressed more than it was before the
>mod?
>
>Tom
Complications? I hope none. My understanding is that if anything it
would avoid further (possible) complications.
-Qui
Red '90 G60
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Tue Sep 5 19:59 PDT 1995
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Date: Tue, 05 Sep 1995 19:47:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Herzog
Subject: Re: Neuspeed gen2 kit
In-Reply-To: <950905222639_11870152@mail06.mail.aol.com>
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> >just that me taking it off the car would make it a) undriveable, and 2)
> >would cost be hundreds of dollars in stock hoses.
>
> You must of understood if you do not like it I would love to have the kit
> back so you can try it without. Thats why these are test kits as we want
> your feedback to determine what products we carry.
I was kidding about all that returning business... I like it and want to
keep it but am not sure if I recommend it yet... just made me laugh to
think of trying to get my car working again after doing all that cutting
and sweating over it! I'll do the best I can to describe my reactions.
Judging from what the other G-60 owner posted on his reactions, I do see
some changes.
The 'vibrations' he referred to are something I personally attribute to
more torque. And once I found out I had a Stage II kit in my car (opened
it to put the Stage I chip in.. saw a stage II.. you can imagine my
reaction) and got it working properly, I could feel more of a vibration
under acceleration. I always joke that a supercharger or turbocharger is
this little guy sitting there blowing into the engine saying "you're big!
you're big!" and I guess I would categorize this 'vibration' feeling as a
more exaggerated small-engine-thinking-it's-big feeling. And the gen2 kit
makes this feeling a little stronger (you can feel it in the seat of all
places and the in sound of the car) before half throttle.
I think (from what I have heard -- never found the August EC, you (Tim)
sent me April) that this kit is especially for higher mile engines. My
engine has 4500 miles. Sure, the supercharger, t-body, etc have 55000
miles, so maybe there's something there too. I didn't experience 'HUGE
CHANGES' but I do feel a subtle difference. Is it worth it? Um... not
sure. Maybe if I read the article to really understand what is going on
here (getting back boost that would otherwise have been bled off up to
about half-throttle?) I could be more specific.
BTW, what are any possible complications we gen2-equipped G-60's might
encounter? Is something getting stressed more than it was before the
mod?
Tom
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Tue Sep 5 17:57 PDT 1995
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Date: Tue, 05 Sep 1995 20:43:26 -0400
From: Corradolvr@aol.com
Subject: Gen2 Fuel Enrichment Kit !!!!
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This past weekend I installed the Neuspeed Gen2 Fuel Enrichment kit
in my '90 G60. Oh what a difference!
Installation o the kit was very straightforward. Though I did have
to reference European Car's August '95's article to make sure I cut the
intake hose in the proper location. Also, I had a slight problem with
the placement of the Hobbs switch because of a previously installed
alarm system on the passenger shock tower. By tinkering with the alarm, and
the vapor hose bracket, everything fit just fine.
I used the scotch-loc wire splicers provided even though many people
don't like them. Perhaps in the future I will change them with a more
'positive' connection. The one complaint I have is with the stainless steel
tee. It looks real nice on the outside, but upon further inspection, I found
that the inside was dirty, and the joint needed to be deburred. There were
metal particles hanging on where the small 3/4" outlet was cut (inside, by
the weld). I cleaned it up with some emory paper, and then washed the whole
tee. I didn't want those metal particles sucked into my engine!
All in all it was a simple job. I spent about an hour doing the install
( took my time, checked everything 3,4 times). It could be done in 15-20
mins.
After install, I started the engine to check for leaks & to warm it up.
The car started as easily as before (just a twitch of the ignition key
brings it to life), and idled as before. When I got in the car, I felt a
bit more vibration thru the seat. Was I dreaming? More on this later... I
drove the car a short distance and knew the kit was just what my 70,000mi
engine needed! The additional power comes on at around 2600 rpm, and KEEPS
CLIMBING to the redline! The pull is VERY noticable. The pull does not seem
to increase linearly, but rather in steps. Not that this is bad, but rather,
different. I wonder if those 'steps' are points at which the fuel is
enrichened? Also, the engine seems to vibrate more than I've ever noticed.
Why? Dunno, but it feels like Power Vibrations! I wish I had run time tests
before & after, but I was to anxious to get the kit in. In fact, I brought
the kit with me on vacation, and installed it while away from home. The trip
home was definitely more exciting! Fuel economy seems to be about the same.
Though the extra boost is fun to play with! I got about 26mpg with the car
packed to the gills, 2 bikes on top, traveling at 65-75mph up & down hills on
the Taconic Pkwy (Taconic is a hilly twisty road in NY :-)
My Opinion, Everyone who enjoys driving there G60's (that includes everyone
right?) should get this kit. Especially those with high mileage cars. I
think New Dimensions sells them at a discount to the list!
Ok, I gotta go, my perma-grin is beginning to fade. I have to restore it by
taking my Corrado for a spin.
Pete Kummer
s31207%mother.utrcgw.utc.com
(sent from corradolvr@aol.com)
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Date: Fri, 01 Sep 1995 18:17:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Herzog
Subject: Neuspeed gen2 kit
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Well, I just (haven't even washed my hands yet!) got done installing the
generation2 "Fuel Enrichment Kit" for the G60. Not sure what I think
yet... only drove it to make sure I didn't screw anything up. I'll
hopefully be able to write more about the performance but I don't have a
boost gage, so it won't be too technical.
I've got a 1990 G60 with the Autothority Stage II boost kit that was on
the car for probably most of the original 50,962 miles before I got a new
engine from VW about 4500 miles ago. Everything else (engine wise) is
stock.
Here's stuff about the install. To be honest, this was the first
mechical install I have ever done. Not that bad, really. I haven't even
had the air box off. The instructions are easy to follow and there's a
nice picture. I had to call ND a few times just to be sure on a couple
of things, but I am paranoid when it comes to that stuff.
Joe at ND recommended using the stock hose that runs to the idle
stablilizer - it's got a funny elbow in it though. I accidentally ripped
it so I had to use the orange heater hose Neuspeed supplied in the kit.
They are non standard clamps and I didn't have any good cutters, so I had
to use force. Oh well. Also, Joe recommended not usng the scotch locks
on the wires that the new pressure switch wires plug into, rather to go to
the plastic connector and reclamp them with new metal connectors. I was
impatient. You know what I did. It's okay for now (and probably
forever - the scotch locks that is).
Oh, the first thing I noticed was that before the car warmed up, quick
taps on the accelerator did NOT sound good at al.. really sputtery, but
that went away. Not sure if it's cause of something to so with the first
ime I ran it after the install or if it is permanent. I'll let you all
know.
Anyway, went okay, might be a little more perky, but not sure yet!
Tom
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Fri Sep 8 10:01 PDT 1995
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Date: Fri, 08 Sep 1995 13:55:58 -0300
From: Andy
Subject: Gen 2 Fuel Enrich Installed
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I installed the Gen Fuel Enrichment. Now just the Pulley to go.
Installation Notes:
1) I routed the wire to the back of the manifold by the fire wall instead of
over the cam cover like the instructions said. It was easier.
2) I don't like the way the way the hose bracket sits now that the
pressusre regulator is installed. Tried to find another place for it but
could not.
Problem:
1) the plug supplied was kind of small.
2) the metal T had also the bad finish on the inside and I had to remove
the weld particles with my finger. (I did not go as extereme as to
sand it, like another person did, but just removed the parts that
copuld of gotten loose.
3) While I was cutting away at the hose where the T goes, I found a thin
layer of green oily type stuff lining the tube. I removed as much as
possible but what is that stuff? Where did it come from. It was in the
tube that used to go to the idle stabilizer as well. It that comming from
the intercooler? Should I worry about it?
Impressions:
Contrary to the other 2 posters, I found that the kit made the car even
smoother than it was before. The low end lag is even less distinctive.
Maybe I connected something wrong?
Tests:
Not done yet.
BTW, The car has 56K Km on it.
Andy
--
--. \/ .----------#####**********] Corrado & GTI FUN-atic (Don't o \o
--.\/\/.---G60----#####**********] forget to bike,ski,windsurf, ,-\ \--
---....-----------#####**********] sail) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca 0\-0 \/
See the Corrado WWW Page at: http://ug.cs.dal.ca/~gajewski/corrado.html \.
From whquek@acs.ucalgary.ca Fri Sep 8 00:38 PDT 1995
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Date: Fri, 08 Sep 1995 01:37:20 -0600 (MDT)
From: Wei Hsiung Quek
Subject: Re: audi 5000 intake on g60 done!
In-Reply-To: <01HTC1OA4S9E003UJM@UG.EDS.COM>; from "Jan Vandenbrande" at Jul
26, 95 5:38 pm
To: jan@UG.EDS.COM (Jan Vandenbrande)
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Status: RO
hi jan:
i spoke with you about some time ago regarding the
audi intake swap on the g60. well, i went ahead and
did it despite your warnings that the gains may not be
worth the money.
what we did was swap the intake for the audi turbo one,
port and polished the head and did a three angle job on the
seats. also dropped in a shrick 260 but did not change
to the autothority stage 3 chip.
well, the car sure is faster now, but unfortunately,
we didn't see as much gain as with the stage 2 chip. we
are able to burn rubber very easily on first gear throughout
the rev range.
i drove ron's vr6 synchro the same day and was awestruck
by the power of the damn thing. it didn't feel the same
as the golf 3 vr6 i drove half a year ago-- it was faster.
well, i know i still can't beat a 5.0 yet but what else do you
think is out there? we are flat broke now but we need brakes.
any suggestions at all on aftermarket crossdrilled rotors?
is there a wilwood 4pot system for vw?
you also mentioned a more efficient intercooler. where can
i find out more about that?
sincerely
wei quek
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Wed Sep 27 16:46 PDT 1995
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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 17:29:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: kaz@brainiac.com (Kevin Brisson)
Subject: Installed the Gen 2 Kit
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This weekend I sucessfully installed the Gen 2 Fuel Enrichment on my '92
G60. It doesn't seem like it did much of anything although it seems to be
breathing better above 3000 rpm when accelerating hard. When I take off in
1st and second the car seems to squat back more than I remember. Anyway, I
only have 47k miles unlike the others who installed the kit and have more
miles.
Here are my comments and some problems:
1. My tee fitting seemed fine no big burrs that had to be sanded.
2. I did not like the way the instructions tell you to move the plastic
holder for the vapor lines down on the bottom stud. Then there's only one
stud holding the thing at an angle. I opted to drill a hole just above the
top stud. Makes more sense and looks much better too.
3. Why didn't the kit have Scotch T's instead of those bulky ScotchLoks.
Anyway the wiring is solid and semi-neat with the 'Loks.
4. I used the original hose from the idle stab. valve. No need to have
that ugly orange hose in the kit. The fact. hose has an odd bend in it
though not a problem.
5. The rubber plug was too short and I had to ream it out with a dremel
tool because the diameter of the opening was too small.
6. According to the instructions and the picture in EC magazine the T is
supposed to fit on a straight part of the hose. I have a PLASTIC tube
running all the way to the back of the valve cover, then there is a 90 deg
elbow to the throttle body. I had to install the T in the middle of the
bend and this was not easy. Luckily the one chance I had to cut the hose
was ok. Did Neuspeed check this out first on the '92 G60 !?
Kevin
'92 _______________________
/ / |====O====| \ \ E-mail Address: kaz@brainiac.com
/ / /======G60==\ \ \
|---------------------------| Corrado Home Page:
\_[***[##]_________[##]***]_/ http://ug.cs.dal.ca/~gajewski/corrado.html
KAZ Electronics Home Page - offering the finest mobile electronics equipment
http://www.brainiac.com/kaz
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Thu Sep 28 09:19 PDT 1995
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Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 12:05:24 -0400
From: TurboTim@aol.com
Subject: Re: Installed the Gen 2 Kit
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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In a message dated 95-09-27 09:06:57 EDT, Kevin writes refering to the Gen 2
kit:
>2. I did not like the way the instructions tell you to move the plastic
>holder for the vapor lines down on the bottom stud. Then there's only one
>stud holding the thing at an angle. I opted to drill a hole just above the
>top stud. Makes more sense and looks much better too.
Faxed your comments to Aaron and here is some of his response, he also was
not sure if you had any other mods as I an not either.
As for the vapor lines he did not want to force people to drill so decided to
do it that way but he may change the directions to say that as an option you
may want to drill a hole and do it your way.
>
>3. Why didn't the kit have Scotch T's instead of those bulky ScotchLoks.
>Anyway the wiring is solid and semi-neat with the 'Loks.
With the scotch t's you would have 2 connections instead of 1. 1 on the T and
the other on the connector that would plug into it. He did not say this but I
just realiazed it. We (ND) throw the Scotch junk away and go directlly to the
pin and use a factory connector and crimp it with the factory tool. Of corse
many do not have the tools so the next best would be solder and shrink tube.
The scotch things work but I have never liked them as some of the abuse and
failures we see in the shop are downright funny. ie... On James Slys Golf2
someone who I will not slam installed the front turnlens wiring using these
and when 1 did not work I wiggled the wires/scotch connection and low and
behold they started working. In the outside/engine enviroment I have seen to
many failures as inside the car away from the elements they seem to work OK.
>4. I used the original hose from the idle stab. valve. No need to have
>that ugly orange hose in the kit. The fact. hose has an odd bend in it
>though not a problem.
>
We do the same thing and Aaron may include a new factory hose instead or
include in the directions that reusing the stock is ok.
note: many times the factory hose is brittle and can crack when trying to
bend it to fit.
>5. The rubber plug was too short and I had to ream it out with a dremel
>tool because the diameter of the opening was too small.
You want it to fit verrry tight as it also has a clamp so being a tad short
has no ill effect except for looks. Simply a matter of what plugs are
available is why that one is used. We have no problems on the ones we have
installed.
>
>6. According to the instructions and the picture in EC magazine the T is
>supposed to fit on a straight part of the hose. I have a PLASTIC tube
>running all the way to the back of the valve cover, then there is a 90 deg
>elbow to the throttle body. I had to install the T in the middle of the
>bend and this was not easy. Luckily the one chance I had to cut the hose
>was ok. Did Neuspeed check this out first on the '92 G60 !?
Aaron fessed up to this one and said there are not that many of those models
out with that style. He talked about a different design for those but the
cost would probally be much higher. It seems to only be a small production so
at this time nothing can be done.
As for your comment "It doesn't seem like it did much of anything"
What other mods are done on your C?? If it's stock then the improvements may
not be as noticable as ones with boost kits. A great way to test it for
yourself is to disable it and drive for a week then hook it back up and drive
it. just a thought.
**TT** (**AN**)
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Oct 2 02:54 PDT 1995
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Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 17:58:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: kaz@brainiac.com (Kevin Brisson)
Subject: Re: Installed the Gen 2 Kit
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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>Faxed your comments to Aaron and here is some of his response, he also was
>not sure if you had any other mods as I an not either.
I have a stock '92 G60 with K & N Filter.
>As for the vapor lines he did not want to force people to drill so decided to
>do it that way but he may change the directions to say that as an option you
>may want to drill a hole and do it your way.
OK, so I and others can choose depending on their skill and the time you
want to take to install. Be nice if the kit included a bolt and nut
painted black to match the bracket.
>>3. Why didn't the kit have Scotch T's instead of those bulky ScotchLoks.
>>Anyway the wiring is solid and semi-neat with the 'Loks.
>
>With the scotch t's you would have 2 connections instead of 1. 1 on the T and
>the other on the connector that would plug into it. He did not say this but I
>just realiazed it. We (ND) throw the Scotch junk away and go directlly to the
>pin and use a factory connector and crimp it with the factory tool. Of corse
>many do not have the tools so the next best would be solder and shrink tube.
There's no real sure and pretty way to tap into a wire w/o the proper tools
to redo factory connectors so I guess the ScotchLoks are the best
alternative.
>>4. I used the original hose from the idle stab. valve. No need to have
>>that ugly orange hose in the kit. The fact. hose has an odd bend in it
>>though not a problem.
>>
>
>We do the same thing and Aaron may include a new factory hose instead or
>include in the directions that reusing the stock is ok.
>note: many times the factory hose is brittle and can crack when trying to
>bend it to fit.
Mine was pretty supple but I take care of my hoses like most of us probably do.
>>5. The rubber plug was too short and I had to ream it out with a dremel
>>tool because the diameter of the opening was too small.
>
>You want it to fit verrry tight as it also has a clamp so being a tad short
>has no ill effect except for looks. Simply a matter of what plugs are
>available is why that one is used. We have no problems on the ones we have
>installed.
Well, I agree that it should be tight but this was too tight to even
stretch and put on.
>>6. According to the instructions and the picture in EC magazine the T is
>>supposed to fit on a straight part of the hose. I have a PLASTIC tube
>>running all the way to the back of the valve cover, then there is a 90 deg
>>elbow to the throttle body. I had to install the T in the middle of the
>>bend and this was not easy. Luckily the one chance I had to cut the hose
>>was ok. Did Neuspeed check this out first on the '92 G60 !?
>
>Aaron fessed up to this one and said there are not that many of those models
>out with that style. He talked about a different design for those but the
>cost would probally be much higher. It seems to only be a small production so
>at this time nothing can be done.
It's a '92 G60 which fewer were made since they switched to VR6 that year.
Even though the install is trickier the T and cut hose seems to be on
solidly with no air leaks.
>As for your comment "It doesn't seem like it did much of anything"
>
>What other mods are done on your C?? If it's stock then the improvements may
>not be as noticable as ones with boost kits. A great way to test it for
>yourself is to disable it and drive for a week then hook it back up and drive
>it. just a thought.
Can I just disable by disconnecting one of the valves wires ?
It is a stock G60 and only has 47K miles so maybe that's why.
After driving for a week it seems like there might be some difference above
3000 rpm. I noted recently when the engine is cold and I rev up to 5000 to
6000 in first, when I shift to second I hear a high pitched metallic
whizzing noise coming from the engine as the RPMs drop down. This is
really strange and lasts for less than a second. When the engine is warm I
don't hear it.
I wish you could hear it, tough to describe.
Kevin
'92 _______________________
/ / |====O====| \ \ E-mail Address: kaz@brainiac.com
/ / /======G60==\ \ \
|---------------------------| Corrado Home Page:
\_[***[##]_________[##]***]_/ http://ug.cs.dal.ca/~gajewski/corrado.html
KAZ Electronics Home Page - offering the finest mobile electronics equipment
http://www.brainiac.com/kaz
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Oct 2 02:43 PDT 1995
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Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 12:14:52 -0400
From: TurboTim@aol.com
Subject: Re: Installed the Gen 2 Kit
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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In a message dated 95-09-28 20:30:00 EDT, Kevin and Tim write:
>>>5. The rubber plug was too short and I had to ream it out with a >>>dremel
tool because the diameter of the opening was too small.
>>You want it to fit verrry tight as it also has a clamp so being a tad short
>>has no ill effect except for looks. Simply a matter of what plugs are
>>available is why that one is used. We have no problems on the ones >>we
have installed.
>Well, I agree that it should be tight but this was too tight to even
>stretch and put on.
We had no problem and the rest of the people on this list must not of had a
problem ?? Maybe it's a different size on the 92???
>Can I just disable by disconnecting one of the valves wires ?
Yes and reconnect the hose and use the plug to cap off the T pipe.
>It is a stock G60 and only has 47K miles so maybe that's why.
OK thats what we thought.
>After driving for a week it seems like there might be some difference above
3000 rpm. I noted recently when the engine is cold and I rev up to 5000 to
6000 in first, when I shift to second I hear a high pitched metallic whizzing
noise coming from the engine as the RPMs drop down. This isreally strange and
lasts for less than a second. When the engine is warm I don't hear it.
I wish you could hear it, tough to describe.
Weird has anyone else heard this noise? The G-60 is so noisy I am amazed you
can hear anything he he Not sure on the noise but see if anyone else has
heard it.
**TT**
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Oct 2 02:43 PDT 1995
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Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 14:35:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Pete Kummer
Subject: Re: Installed the Gen 2 Kit
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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Regarding the funny noise being heard:
I have not heard any additional noise from my G-60 after installing the
Gen2 kit. The car does seem to be a little louder overall, but I think
that is due to me staying in the higher rev's more often now ;-)
Boy does that kit make a big difference in my car (remember, I'm the
one with the '90 G60 with over 70,000mi, but a brand new G-charger)
This kit is a definite fix for those lazy idle stab blues.....
Also, I did not have a problem installing the rubber cap. Sure it looks
really tiny, but it stretches right on.
BTW, Tim, any news on the exhaust for the G60???
I got all this extra air & fuel going in, I need something bigger for
it to go out :-)
Pete Kummer
s31207%mother@utrcgw.utc.com
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sat Oct 7 14:01 PDT 1995
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From: rlallas@seas.ucla.edu
Subject: Re: P-Flo. A lot of hot air?
In-Reply-To: from
"Matthew Jelavic" at Oct 6, 95 10:04:54 pm
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> I can understand the advantages of a P-Flo conical air filter in regards
> to the reduction of intake air restriction, however, doesn't it also pull
> in a lot of hot air?
>
> Anyone who knows anything about performance engineering knows that to
> achieve maximum engine output, one must obtain cold air. The P-Flo
> actually pulls in more hot engine air than the standard air-box.
>
I agree also that the P-Flo will pull in hot air and decrease performance;
although i have never tried a P-Flo ($140 is an outrageous price, as is
their Gen 2 kit which consists of just a few vaccuum lines and a pressure
switch for $200) i do have a K&N flat filter. i have tried taking out the
little snorkel at the bottom of the box, and also taking out the whole box
as well, which is *about* the same as a P-Flo.
comparing the two, i have better performance with the box but without the
snorkel, than without the box at all. I do get more boost though (about 1
more psi) without the box, but that is hot air that increases the pressure.
which explains the decrease in performance.
on the other hand a friend of mine, says that taking out the box helps
more on his car.
Later,
Roger Allas
rlallas@seas.ucla.edu
'90 G60 Tornado Red
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Oct 9 23:06 PDT 1995
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id RAA08897 for corrado-l@teleport.com; Mon, 9 Oct 1995 17:59:47 -0400
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 1995 17:59:47 -0400
From: TurboTim@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chip question?
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In a message dated 95-10-05 02:14:37 EDT, you write:
>> Hey, I suppose this is a silly question but a friend of mine wondered if
>> there was an actual difference in the 'programming' of stage 1, 2, and 3
>> chips. In other words, if you stuck a stage 3 chip in without the usual
>> stage 3 mods. would it act as a stage 1? I told him that I believed
>> (seems logical) that each chip has slightly different programming,
>> respectively, to take advantage of the 'stage #' specific mods; a stage 2
>> is programmed to take advantage of the increased boost from the smaller
>> pulley, etc. Enlightenment is appreciated :)
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jason
Quote from Neuspeed-
It seems that this is one way to keep you from spending money over and over
on the same chip. APE Stage I, II chips have too much timing and over 9% CO;
their air-fuel ratio causes HP losses. Over the years, APE has been reducing
their timing maps due to pinging problems that lead to holes in pistons.
Timing maps are now close to APS. Because of their aggressive timing, lots of
fuel was dumped in to keep combustion chambers cool to prevent pinging. But
this could not take care of it.
Stage III
Now that timing is reasonable, the fuel has now been reduced to values less
than stock, which puts the CO leaner than stock. Pinging and higher dangerous
combustion chamber temperatures are possible. Go figure that one!!!
One properly tuned chip is possible. The stock software chip has programming
up to 14+ psi. If a chip is tuned for all applications, the fuel will be
right with stock pulley at 9 psi, or smaller pulley at 14+ psi. This is
because the ECU will be looking at the fuel value at a given psi and rpm. So
one chip is possible, except for a 2.0L where more fuel would be desired. APS
has a special chip for 2.0L G60s.
**TT**
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Fri Oct 13 18:58 PDT 1995
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 1995 21:45:07 +0800
From: roland@quadsys.com (Roland Besserer)
Subject: Introduction
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> >
> > Just got a new set of (4) Dunlop SP8000 on my '90 G60 - Damn, can not
> > belive the differerance tires make - not only can I cruz faster through
> > turns, but the ride had been made alot smother also.
>
Time to jump in. As I'm new to the list, I'll run down my configuration
before getting to the tire issue (and others I've been following):
'90 G-60
100,000+ miles
SuperChips chip and 14psi pulley
K&N air filter (for the damn sound, more than anything :-)
Strut tie bar
Slotted and drilled racing brake rotors
As many on this list seem to be quite interested in aftermarket components
and their effectiveness, I'd like to briefly touch on the improvements I've
made and still plan to do.
History:
My G60 has now over 100,000 hard miles of mountain driving on it.
The motor mounts are worn, the front axle damper whatchamacallits
are broken (I cut it off, as it can't be fixed except by installing a new
axle), I'm on the 4th windshield, the battery exploded once, the cooling
fan motor got fried and the driver side headlight assembly needed replacing
after the acid from the exploding battery ate it up (well, there was also
a bullet hole in the glass - must have been the local mountain hicks).
Brakes:
Although ok, I was never really all that happy with the stock brakes, and
finally decided to replace the rotors and pads. Installed slotted/drilled
racing rotors and Repco metal pads. A very noticable improvement in braking
performance. For hard twisty backroad riding (aka my commute) these
pads are execellent and I have noticed no discernable negative effects
in normal city driving (aka pads not fully up to temperature).
Suspension, Strut Bar:
One of the reasons I got the G60 was handling. The car is very stable
and predictable in turns and easily controlled. It does 'feature' significant
body roll, though. My initial stock shock went bust at about 30,000 miles
and I'm on my 3rd set now. Suspension Techniques lowering (and stiffer)
springs and Tokiko fully adjustable shock front and rear are on order.
I added at strut bar that has helped control roll, but the springs and shocks
will have much more of an impact.
Tires:
Average live span of the tires I've used is 15,000 miles front 20-25,000 rear.
Amazingly, the OEM tires flew apart (aka thread came off) at just 11,000 miles.
The absolutely best tires I've used on the Corrado are the Interceptors.
Unfortunately, I only got one set before they were discontinued. These
essentially race compound tires come pretty much pre-shaved (aka no squeal
and vagueness during hard cornering), grip like clue (First time the car
lifted the inside rear wheel was with the Interceptors) and are utterly
predictable. Biggest disadvantage - crap in the rain, dangerously so.
I followed these with Toyos, Bridgestone RE71 and Pirelly P-Zero Asymetricos.
Of those, the Pirelli are the best performers, while the RE71 is good in
wet weather (aka winter here in CA) and have the added advantage of an higher,
absorbing sidewall construction which definitely saves on rims. I'm on the
3rd set in front, 2nd in the rear. The low sidewall Interceptors ruined
a set of rims in one fall season (too many damn potholes up here).
Engine:
I'm a great fan of low capacity, high revving engines (I roadrace motorcycles,
both 4-stroke and 2-stroke) and was always intrigued by the G60, getting
160HP out of a 1.8L engine with 8 valves. I toyed with the idea of a chip
and other engine improvements (cam, exhaust) and after a lot of calls and
research picked the Superchips package as the most cost effective one.
The set comes with a chip, pulley (to up the G-loader from 8psi to 14psi)
and belt damper adjuster. I installed the chip only and drove for a week.
Some minor improvement at low rpm, but nothing impressive. Replaced the
pulley and WENT FOR A RIDE. The effect is stunning, particularly in the
3000-4500 range. Passing is utter joy. Floor the throttle and the car
leaps ahead (I now regularly pass 2 cars where previously I took them
one at a time). There is a flat spot between 5000-5500 and another
serious kick over 6000 (rev limit is now 6700). Installation is a bitch
and the half page instruction 'manual' is useless.
I added a K&N filter to replace the airbox to increase flow. No truly
noticable performance gain but the sound is phenominal now. Shifting at
4500+ rpm, coming off full throttle, the car wheezes in an asthmatic fit,
you can hear the air move. I'll install a heat shield between the filter
and the rest of the engine compartment to get cooler air into the system,
but expect little gain from that.
At 100,000 miles, I probably won't make any further improvements to the car.
What I'd really like is a VR6 with a G-loader attached :-)
Regards
roland
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Tue Oct 17 09:49 PDT 1995
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Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 09:35:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Griffith
Subject: Re: Chip question (2.0L G60)
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I originally posted something about Techtonics Tuning having a 2liter kit for the
G60. When I called a few days ago to ask a few questions about it, I was told they
weren't selling them any more. They were having trouble with the quality of the
pistons they were getting. According to TT they did the 2 liter for Aaron at
Neuspeed, and said he had blown a piston with this kit. So if there is a reliable kit
out there I'd love to hear about it.
Brian Griffith- 90 Yellow G60 (1.8l)
81 VW Transcaddy aka Pickup
E-mail: briang@netmanage.com
10/17/95
09:35:06
Phone:206-869-9600
Fax:206-885-0297
This message was sent by Chameleon
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From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Oct 16 22:59 PDT 1995
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 04:55:15 -0400
From: UniqueVR6@aol.com
Subject: G60 Golf
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>>1) VR6 A1 Rabbit
>>2) G60 A2 Golf
>>3) 2.2L 16V Tall Block
>
>Are these cars that are finished or work in progress or just ideas??
>
>**TT**
Hello all, I just flew back into the Bay Area from Los Angeles (it's 1 am
in the morning, thanks to your typical flight delay). Well, LA certainly has
more than its fair share of exotic & eye-catching cars - in less than half a
day of cruising around Santa Monica and Westwood, I spotted no less than a
really pretty yellow F355 Berlinetta, the new stunning twin-turbo 911 (plus
scores of older 911s and their variants), a couple of Vipers, your typical
assortment of NSX & top-of-the-line BMW & Mercedes, but strangely enough no
Corrado or white Ford Bronco ...
Anyway, back to the story. Am waiting for more details from EIP re the
VR6 Rabbit & 2.2L 16V, but here's what they said about their G60 A2 Golf
project:
"The G60 GOLF conversion was completed on 07/22/95. We utilized the
true Rallye Golf intercooler that we modified for higher flow and better
fitment. There is virtually zero pressure drop (unlike the ineffective stock
setup and plumbing) which allows almost instant boost! A light-weight
flywheel, 210mm sport clutch mated with a Quaiffe in a 020 close ratio
transmission allows a gratifyingly fast throttle response. Literally from
idle in first gear, if you allow the car to slowly roll with the clutch out,
as soon as you mash the throttle the car begins spinning both 205/45/16 Conti
CV91's and the car lurches forward searching for grip.
After quickly doing away with first gear's usefulness, second spins
for 20 to 30 feet and the car pulls violently forward and when grip is
achieved, second is finished. Third and fourth pull nearly as hard, and fifth
has plenty of punch in reserve. The car has seen over 145mph and has yet to
be truly top-speed tested!"
Edward
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Oct 16 22:17 PDT 1995
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Date: Mon, 16 Oct 1995 23:07:02 -0400
From: UniqueVR6@aol.com
Subject: EIP's G60 & VR6 projects
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Here's some more detailed info on various interesting conversions that
people have inquired about. Hope this will be a bit more informative and
helpful than my first post, but if any of you have further questions, please
feel free to contact Rich of European Import Performance Tuning directly.
Below is a copy of what he has just emailed me:
*******************************************
1) AVAILABLE NOW: * 2.0L G60 *
On this conversion, we utilize forged alloy piston available in two
compression ratios: 8.3:1 & 8.8:1 in a bore size of 82.5mm (other sizes are
easily obtained if desired). The kit also incorporates a 92.8mm crank (as a
comparison, Neumann uses an Oettinger 95.4mm unit) with the longer 144mm rods
of the 8 & 16V motors (as opposed to the shorter rods of the G60 motor), for
improved free-reving and smoothness characteristics.
One of our 2.0L G60 project cars is a 1979 Scirocco G60 which is being
fully restored by its owner and a friend who is a German auto tech. EIP
simply designed the motor (a bubble block with EIP big valve head etc) and
some of the engine management. That car should debut at Bug-Out, Spring of
'96.
We have also put together a similar motor for a number of customers around
the country. Raceware, Total Seal and other parts are included in the kits. A
price is given for each individual custom package. For even more
performance, a special EIP G60 cylinder head, throttle body (flow bench
tested at 30% greater flow) and several other high performance parts are also
available for extracting some rather impressive power out of the G60.
We are also testing a modified G-lader that increases efficiency and
longevity of the unit (one such is now on a car and racking up mileage). Time
will tell re this modification, which was performed mostly in-house (like
virtualy all of our serious projects) and utilized High Performance Coatings
etc.
2) AVAILABLE NOW: * G60 Corrado w/Eurospec 8V cylinder head *
We installed a Digifant Eurospec 8V cylinder head on a 1990 G60 Corrado a
while back. The Corrado was not originally one of the motors that Eurospec
thought the head would work on, but I'm pretty adventurous and tried it
anyway... It ended up being one of the fastest Corrados I've ever driven! We
also re-did the exhaust, intake (Audi 5 cyl. conversion) and popped in a
special HP kit using 17lbs of boost etc.
3) UNDER DEVELOPMENT: * VR6 A1 project ('84 Rabbit GTI)*
EIP currently has the customer's car and a 2.9L VR6 motor & trans (imported
from Tim Stilles Racing in England) in the shop, and has started doing some
R&D on the setup. We hope to commence work on this after two current
projects are out of the way (Edward's 3.1L VR6 and a 3.0L VR6 Golf) and have
the VR6 Rabbit finished up by the end of Feb '95. For your information, Ron
(RPI) has completed, for the most part, their VR6 A1 Rabbit so this
particular conversion will not be the first of its kind. However, it shoud
be a fun project and a very FAST car!
4) UNDER DEVELOPMENT: * 2.2L 16V tall block *
Custom-made EIP pistons (forged alloy, 10.8:1 compression ratio) designed for
this project arrived Friday 10/13/95, so we'll begin to build this motor. We
will be sharing info with EuroSpec Racing Ltd., who supplied us with the
tall block and 99mm crank. Their original 2.2L 16V, installed in the C&R Golf
("Zerostorer") which was featured in European Car, was a short block and the
design was less than optimal, so they are anxious for us to complete this
project!
*******************************************
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sun Nov 5 22:01 PST 1995
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Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 21:55:23 -0800 (PST)
From: jia-yu liu
Subject: Re: Oettinger Corrado
In-Reply-To: <309d8c8d002c002@cliff.uoknor.edu>
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the article is on the May 1992 issue of European Car. ( I didn't have a
Corrado yet, but I bought so many magazines that has articles with
Corrados in it already...eheheh.. ) However, besides the turbo charger
besides the G60 lader. The cylinder head is also new, a 20 valves
unit.....5 valves per cylinder...... The rest article went on with a
intorduction of Oettinger's history. It was also mentioned in the
article that it is only a prototype since the cost to get TUV approved is
too high, and the car cost around $55000......0-60 mph was claimed to be
6.5 seconds....
Brian Liu
1993 SLC
On Sun, 5 Nov 1995, Wes Verdel wrote:
> Does anyone else remember a brief mentioning of a G60 model Corrado
> that Oettinger made. It was briefly mentioned in the European Car article
> on the VR6-Oettinger car. I remeber 260 bhp and they replaced the G60 with
> a turbo. If anyone knows anything more in depth, please let me know. If I
> have to replace my superchrager, I may just opt for the turbo instead.
> Thanks,
> Wes
> Thomas Wesley Verdel
> wes_verdel@uoknor.edu
> University of Oklahoma
>
>
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Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 00:46:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: Oettinger Corrado
In-Reply-To: <309d8c8d002c002@cliff.uoknor.edu>
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>
> Does anyone else remember a brief mentioning of a G60 model Corrado
> that Oettinger made. It was briefly mentioned in the European Car article
> on the VR6-Oettinger car. I remeber 260 bhp and they replaced the G60 with
> a turbo. If anyone knows anything more in depth, please let me know. If I
> have to replace my superchrager, I may just opt for the turbo instead.
> Thanks,
> Wes
> Thomas Wesley Verdel
> wes_verdel@uoknor.edu
> University of Oklahoma
I have the magizine with the original article somwhere. The car was based
on a G60 motor. The G-lader was replaced by a turbo, and the 2 valve head
was replaced by Oetingers own 5 vavle head. The head never went into
production because it was EXPENSIVE, and the VR6 was soon to make it's
debut. Audi will have their 5v head available in this country soon
(Hmmmm). The car also had a motorsport transmission to handle all that
power. Top speed was somwhere in the 160mph range.
Brian 93 VR6
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sun Nov 5 15:10 PST 1995
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Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 18:03:49 -0500
From: davidtam@interlog.com (David Tam)
Subject: Re: Just installed stage I
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>Hey, does anyone know why some chips say a gain of 9hp where some say a gain
>of 21 hp? Superchips in FL claims a 21hp increase, but neuspeed only
>7hp...what gives here?
>
>Dave
>
A gain of 7 or 9 hp is reasonable and both Authority and Neuspeed uses the
similiar approaches.
Superchips in FL is actually an equivalent to Authority and Neuspeed's Stage
II. What Superchips
did not say in their ad was you have to change the pulley as well.
Regards.
David
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Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 10:02:11 -0600 (CST)
From: stevek@execpc.com (Steven M. Kosloske)
Subject: Small pully/G-laders for sale
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Anyone read this on the vw.watercooled board?
Well, Neuspeed's HP kit used to have a 15 lb ft pulley, which is
the same size pulley that came STOCK on the G60 Automatics! So I
highly doubt if that can contribute a large amount to a G60 meltdown.
If everyone thinks about it for a minute, remember that VW had all
kinds of problems in developing the G60? THey delayed the model till
'90, even thought they were supposed to bring it out the year before.
THe upshot of this is, you can go to your local VW dealer and grab
a pulley from the automatic and see substantial gains in your 5 spd
G60!
Oh, if anyone actually needs a G60 unit, let me know, I have a line
on two of them, $600 each, only 30k miles on each of them.
Josh
--
Joshua Wyte jdw8@po.cwru.edu
'91 Neuspeed/Autotech GTi 16v
Need advice on 2 liter 16v's? Drop a line.
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Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 10:02:11 -0600 (CST)
From: stevek@execpc.com (Steven M. Kosloske)
Subject: Small pully/G-laders for sale
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Anyone read this on the vw.watercooled board?
Well, Neuspeed's HP kit used to have a 15 lb ft pulley, which is
the same size pulley that came STOCK on the G60 Automatics! So I
highly doubt if that can contribute a large amount to a G60 meltdown.
If everyone thinks about it for a minute, remember that VW had all
kinds of problems in developing the G60? THey delayed the model till
'90, even thought they were supposed to bring it out the year before.
THe upshot of this is, you can go to your local VW dealer and grab
a pulley from the automatic and see substantial gains in your 5 spd
G60!
Oh, if anyone actually needs a G60 unit, let me know, I have a line
on two of them, $600 each, only 30k miles on each of them.
Josh
--
Joshua Wyte jdw8@po.cwru.edu
'91 Neuspeed/Autotech GTi 16v
Need advice on 2 liter 16v's? Drop a line.
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sun Nov 5 06:58 PST 1995
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Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 09:51:53 -0500 (EST)
From: Mike Szlabowicz
Subject: Re: Just installed stage I
In-Reply-To: <95Nov5.102808adt.373(3)@ug.cs.dal.ca>
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You also have to consider the hp curve vs hp peak....big difference there
:anyone can make a chip that gives you an extra 20hp (peak somehere on
the curve) but the key to a good chip is having the entire hp curve
shifted up so that you have more power over the whole rpm range rather
than one particular spot. This is what neuspeed/AT chps do. The hp they
report is I think probably close to the actual # rather thanwishful
thinking on their part.
On Sun, 5 Nov 1995, Andy wrote:
> The Sandman writes:
> >
> > Hey, does anyone know why some chips say a gain of 9hp where some say a gain
> > of 21 hp? Superchips in FL claims a 21hp increase, but neuspeed only
> > 7hp...what gives here?
>
> Nice BS, Even the neuspeed ones are overrated. You can see an
> inprovement, better feel, drivability and response but not everything is
> attributed to hp. There are many things you can to ake the car drive
> better without actually increasing the "hp".
>
> Think about, if Superchips were so good, why are not most people buying
> them? Most stick to Neuspeed and AT. There is this thing called
> reliability. You still wnat to drive your corrado with a chip next
> year...don't you?
>
> And me being an outdoor person, do like to preserve the environment. That
> is the main reason I chose Neuspeed over AT. I don't live in CA, but that
> 2 hp less does not teally matter to me. I'm still having fun in the car
> without having to suffocate on my own exhaust when I bike. (Ok, I know
> this is extreme, but Neuspeed is the only one that is Carb legal)
>
> ANdy
>
> --
> --. \/ .----------#####**********] Corrado & GTI FUN-atic (Don't o \o
> --.\/\/.---G60----#####**********] forget to bike,ski,windsurf, ,-\ \--
> ---....-----------#####**********] sail) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca 0\-0 \/
> See the Corrado WWW Page at: http://ug.cs.dal.ca/~gajewski/corrado.html \.
>
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Wed Nov 15 06:56 PST 1995
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Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 11:35:17 -0500 (EST)
From: anikzad@symbol.com (Arman Nikzad)
Subject: HP Gen2 Kit upgrade Question
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I have a G60 with AutoTech's StageIII ( chip, cam, fuel regulator, and pulley).
Does any body know if the neuspeed's Gen2 upgrade kit can help me or not?
and why?
While back also there was a question on the size of the automatic G60
pulley, so here are my measurements
Pulley Inner Radius Thickness of Edge
------------------------------------------------------------------
G60-Auto 80.0 mm about 12 mm
AutoTech 52.0 mm 9.0 mm
Note that AutoTech's pulley's edge measurement was easy since it has no grooves.
but the OEM part has groves for the belt so I kind of took the avg.
G60 AUTO
|<--- 12 mm ---->| .------- 40.0 mm ---------->| |
AutoTech
| | .--------- 26 mm --------->|<-- 9.0 mm --->|
-Arman Nikzad
anikzad@symbol.com
From anikzad@symbol.com Thu Nov 16 06:01 PST 1995
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 08:57:36 -0500 (EST)
From: anikzad@symbol.com (Arman Nikzad)
Subject: Re: G60 Pulley size (fwd)
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G60 Pulley # :
I found the following on the pulley
DE 037145929B WPA
Hope it helps.
-Arman
P.S. Do U know anything about the 2.0 liter conversion for G60s and the
sport heads available for G60 ? I am kinda thinking about it...
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Nov 20 18:39 PST 1995
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Date: Mon, 20 Nov 1995 20:43:26 -0500
From: MHeff82156@aol.com
Subject: Re: G60 Engine Upgrade
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In a message dated 95-11-19 14:25:53 EST, you write:
>Does anyone (other than EIP ) know anything about this upgrade? What
>exactly is it?
>
>Clarke Russell
The Eurospec head is a brand-new solid-lifter cylinder head with the
performance options of a ported and polished head cast right in. Designers
included Bertil Solenskog, Darrell Vittone and Collin Gyenes (from Techtonics
tuning), and Sigfaried Spiess (one of Europe's most renowned cylinder head
experts). Each person had their own input into the head. Then they
approached a cylinder head foundry with their design. And the rest, as they
say, is cast in aluminum. The result is a performance head which flows 40%
better than a stock GTi head, with the same size valves (40mm intake; 33mm
exhaust)!! But it doesn't end there, here are some other features:
1. The head is heavily reinforced- cam follower areas strengthened; thicker
water jackets (no more worry about piercing water jackets when modifying
ports); Spring seat surfaces are cast deeper in the head (allows use of
longer springs needed for ultra-high lift cams).
2. Heat treated. No problem putting this head on a G60, although special
valves may be needed (i.e. sodium filled).
3.Thicker head decks and free flowing ports.
I'm currently saving for one of these tricked out heads. They say that the
head is a direct bolt-on for the 1.8L. Is it also a direct bolt-on for the
Corrado, or do modifications have to be made? Where will I be able to get a
solid-lifter supercharger cam? I don't think the factory G-grind cam is
going to cut it, way too much overlap for a supercharged engine.
Later,
Matt H.
90 G60
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Tue Jan 2 10:24 PST 1996
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Date: Tue, 02 Jan 1996 10:28:52 -0700
From: TKay@RLAMAIL.US.DYNIX.COM
Subject: Re: How about a modified Intercooler? -Reply
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GTA sells a group A and B intercooler. The group A adds something like
24 HP and replaces the factory AC condensor. (not very practical for
me) and is 1800 US if I remember right. The group B adds about 15-18
hp and sits on top of the transmission (hence the need for a scoop) and
they sell it for 1100 US. These prices were quoted to me almost seven
months ago (and still NO catalog from them), so I don't know if it is
correct still.
TK
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sat Dec 30 19:12 PST 1995
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Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 21:27:14 -0500
From: EIPTUNING@aol.com
Subject: Re: G60 rebuild
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Actually, rebuilding the G-charger is not really rocket science. Yes alot
of care must be taken to ensure that everything is removed and re-assembled
properly, and I don't suggest that anyone try this on the weekend under a
shady tree.
It is not, however, as impossible as VW or your dealer would have you
believe. Why VW doesn't offer the internal components to the charger (like a
rebuild kit) is beyond my understanding.
We have been resealing, modifying, and improving the G60 charger for over
three years with alot of success. We are able to improve the G-chargers
output in several ways. First we improve the unit's flow by modifying several
components inside the charger body. Next we reduce friction through a unique
process, which also aids in the longevity of the G-charger unit. We also
apply, as an option, a special thermal disspersent (black in color) to the
G-charger body to help heat transfer out of the charger and further reduce
intake air temperature.
When used in conjunction with our Big valve G60 head, converted Audi
5cyl. intake manifold (reworked & flowed), special HP kit, Schrick cam etc.,
we have produced G60 Corrado's that are much faster in all aspects to most
VR6 C's out there. Longevity of the charger mods are still being tested (no
failures to date).
As far as swapping a VR6 into G60 C body, it would be very similiar to
the VR6 A2 conversion, requiring a good bit of money and alot of work. I
recommend purchasing a VR6 C rather than spend the time and effort to do what
VW has already done (probably better than most conversions would be) for you.
Sorry for the length, had alot to say.
----------------------> RICH !! <------------------------
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sat Dec 30 19:08 PST 1995
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Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 21:26:38 -0500
From: EIPTUNING@aol.com
Subject: Re: G60 HP
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The G60 motor actually has the ability to produce over 250hp with "add
on" parts (without changing the bottom end). The basic 201 dyno tested hp
that is achieved through nothing other than the Autothority stage 2 kit is
definitly the best bang for the buck. We sell the kit for $525.00 and of all
mods for all VW's there is no better bang for the buck!
---------------> RICH !! <----------------
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Fri Jan 5 00:42 PST 1996
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Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 03:05:29 -0500
From: EIPTUNING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Corrado AC removal
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In order to remove the A/C from the G60 Corrado motor, a special
adjustable water pump pulley must be employed. This part is mentioned and
pictured in the Corrado manual page 19.3 and 19.4 under "Engine - Cooling
System". OF COURSE the part is not available on the US dealer network because
all C's sold in the US came with A/C.
Fortunately, because we use this part when doing A-1 G60 conversions
(without A/C) we brought in a number of these units from Germany. Our price
is $199.00 each. To my knowledge Ron's Parts is the only other company around
bringing in this part.
I'll have to run out in the shop and look at a way out for the VR6. All
of our conversions have had A/C installed, but if I figure something out I'll
write the list.
-----------> RICH !! <-----------
From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Fri Jan 5 00:41 PST 1996
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Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 03:05:29 -0500
From: EIPTUNING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil in intake tubes
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Would have to see the parts to know what you have there, but the G-Charger
has no "grease" sealed inside to be released. The charger bearings are
lubricated by engine oil fed to and from the unit via a braided ss hose and a
black rubber hose. If a seal has failed inside the charger, it would be motor
oil leaking to the intake tract, though it could pick up alot of debris on
the way and become dark and thick.
FYI: I think we have found a source to build us the "sealing strips" to
allow us to totally recondition the G-Charger...more info. soon.
-------------> RICH !! <-------------
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Tue Jan 23 21:17 PST 1996
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Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 00:13:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Dec. Performance & Style
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Status: RO
Pick up the December issue of Performance and Style International if you
can find it. There's an article on a syncro Corrado G60 w/ 260hp.
The tuner who built the car is named Tec Auto & Sport, they are loctaed
in Germany I believe. The car has some interesting things I have not yet
seen on a C. A larger rear wing, Carbon fibre flame screen ala DTM, and a
modified G-lader. This company specializes in rebuilding G-laders. They
offer several mods to increase the G-laders performance and life. If you
can't wait for EIP, you may want to give them a call (they are VW factory
authorized). (00 49) 72 31-106014 fax (00 49) 72 31-3 26 67
Brian 93 VR6
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(NTMail Server 2.11.23 - ntmail@net-shopper.co.uk) id aa000430 Wed,
24 Jan 96 17:25:12 +0000 (PST)
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 17:25:12 +0000 (PST)
From: sean renner
Subject: AutoThority Stage II kit
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Status: RO
To Kevin Jost:
I own a 1990 G60 corrado (built 7/89 #1012)
If you you are considering buying the AutoThority Stage II kit then I
highly reccommend it. I have the stage II kit and it is unbelievable. You
really can feel a night and day difference in power. Give them a call and
have them fax you the dyno info. Another big plus is that if you ever want
to upgrade to the stage III kit, they will give you full trade in value for
your stage II set-up.
Stage II: $595
performance chip
smaller diameter pulley
Stage III: $895(?)
performance chip
sport cam
When you trade in your stage II you must return the stage II chip and you
will recieve the stage III chip and the sport cam. All you have to pay is
about $300. Pretty good deal, huh? (you keep the smaller diameter pulley)
I've had my stage II kit for about 4 years and I soon plan on upgrading to
the stage III.
P.S. - I've never had any problems with the set-up.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
{ Sean Renner }
{ ANS, Inc. }
{Internet Solution Provider }
{ 2681-B Zanker Road }
{ San Jose, CA 95134 }
{ }
{ voice: 408.526.1212 }
{ fax: 408.526.0218 }
{ pgr/vm: 510.659.7837 }
{ email: seanr@ansi.com }
{ http://www.ansi.com/ }
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Jan 24 23:09 PST 1996
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Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 23:07:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Jan Vandenbrande
Subject: AST vs NS
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> I'd go for the Neuspeed. When I was researching power boost on my old '90
> AT sent me a torque/hp graph which was totally bogus. The stock graph did
> not show the hp drop after 5500rpm (or whatever it was, it's been awhile).
The one they sent me showed a very drastic drop around those rpms.
> That meant to me that all their claims were suspect. Neuspeed's was a true
> representation.
I suggest you read the G60_Power_Upgrades file on the web page or
my car page. I am not trying to defend either AST (actually, their
G60 kit was from Autothority) nor Neuspeed.
On the road, both have shown to be good upgrades reaching similar goals
in slightly different ways. Which one is better is hard to say!
> Neuspeed only does VWs and now Hondas and therefore I think their R/D is
> better. By the way, the Boost kit worked great and I highly recommend it
And what does Autotech cater to? Don't they *only* do VWs?
Or if you want to reason the other way, Autothority fiddles around
with fine European cars (and now others too--recall that a good %
of FI systems are under licence from Bosch) and so would be able
to carry over the expertiese.
> >I'm still thinking between AT and APS (Neuspeed). I read the G60
> >Performance faq but I mostly see conflicting opinions. I'm curious on
> >how AT gets its horsepower. According to Aaron(sp?) at Neuspeed the G60
> >gets ample fuel pressure so the AT fuel regulator is not really needed.
I don't know. I do know that Bosche's FI book explains exactly how to
"Tune for Performance" and this is one of the items they discuss.
> >From what I hear both pulley is the same size and is it true this is also
> >the size for the automatic transmission pulley as well.
Yes, AST's pulley == Neuspeeds. In fact they are copies. Dont know about
the automatics, but I do know that the *crankshaft* pulleys on the later
cars are different (bigger). Apparently, the later cars have been measured
to be more powerful!
> >Right now I'm steering more towards Neuspeed because of the HP II kit's
> >fuel enrichment fixes the lazy fuel idler or something like that. I
> >think most people here have AT so maybe it's better.
And to AST's defence...they now have their own fix, a one way valve
which Aaron was experimenting with but could never find a good supplier
(guess Dana did).
Personally, I would not have any problems choosing either one, I think
at this point the differences are philosphical, however, Neuspeed's kit is CARB
approved while only AST's stage 1 is (they said that due to the low
volume they did not bother but it probably would have passed).
--
o ___|___ [\\] | Jan Vandenbrande jan@ug.eds.com
__0 /\0/ /-------\ _ | http://alicudi.usc.edu:80/~jan/
\<,_ O \\ (_________) .#/_\_. | If you are still in control, you are
(_)/ (_) // [_] [_] |_(_)_| | not going fast enough.
--
o ___|___ [\\] | Jan Vandenbrande jan@ug.eds.com
__0 /\0/ /-------\ _ | http://alicudi.usc.edu:80/~jan/
\<,_ O \\ (_________) .#/_\_. | If you are still in control, you are
(_)/ (_) // [_] [_] |_(_)_| | not going fast enough.
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Sun Feb 4 00:04 PST 1996
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Date: Sun, 04 Feb 1996 01:38:30 -0500
From: MDaily632@aol.com
Subject: Gen2 hobbs switch
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If you had Neuspeed's original HP kit on your G-60 before upgrading to Gen2,
you should be able to reuse the switch from the HP kit. I believe it is the
same. It is my understanding that the very first HP kits came with two
switches, but later editions just had one. Those with a single switch have
it wired parallel to the full throttle switch on the throttle body. This is
the same on the Gen2, right? The HP kits with a second switch have it wired
to the idle stabilizer valve. I don't know what function the second switch
serves, but I'm going to guess that it opens the idle stabilizer valve when
boost reaches a certain level. Neuspeed may have thought it necessary with a
combination of small pulley and increased rev limiter. Perhaps later testing
proved it to be unecessary, since they eventually dropped it out of the
package. But getting back to your switch problem, the enrichment switch on
the early kit should be the same as the Gen2 switch. If you didn't have the
old style HP kit, or didn't keep the old parts, there may be people in CCA
who have hung onto their old switches. It never hurts to ask.
Mike
Grey/Black x 2
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Feb 7 12:35 PST 1996
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Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 15:24:38 +0000
From: cgade@hallam.com
Subject: T-body Clarification
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The T-body Modification which Brian Jowett is so adept and careful
about performing, is not a "cinch". He "let" me remove the T-body and
reinstall it, but he did the careful removal of the step. After
watching him do the work, I still wouldn't want to do it myself.
Brian was careful and knowledgeable about the work.
He also sent out this mail:
"I found someone who can TIG weld aluminum today. Hopefully this means
they can fill in the dimple on the stock t-body. This will allow me to
fully port it out to euro specs for peanuts. I'll keep everyone
posted. - Brian 93 VR6 "
Zoooom!
Chris
Vermont
93 slc!
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Feb 7 12:31 PST 1996
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Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 13:27:30 -0700
From: TKay@RLAMAIL.US.DYNIX.COM
Subject: Re: g60 stroker kit -Reply
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The G-60 can push the air, that is not a problem. There are a number of
2.0 L that I know of. One they boosted up the compression, and had
APS make a LARGER diameter pulley, to lower the boost a tad. You just
can't do both, more boost and more compression. Oettinger sell a set of
HIGH-compression race pistons for the G-60 motor.
TK
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Feb 7 10:41 PST 1996
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Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 13:26:06 +0000
From: Matt Heffner
Subject: Re: g60 stroker kit
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
To: whquek@acs.ucalgary.ca, corrado-l@teleport.com
Reply-To: Matt Heffner
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> From: whquek@acs.ucalgary.ca
> Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 19:49:04 -0700
> To: corrado-l@teleport.com
> Subject: g60 stroker kit
> Reply-to: whquek@acs.ucalgary.ca
> hi, i'm new to the list so pardon if i touched on anything sensitive....????!!! :)
>
> i would like to bore and stroke to 2.0 my yellow g60 but i was informed by aaron neuman that
> doing so will screw up the compression of the engine. he circumvented that on his yellow c by
> reducing the pulley size even morem producing more boost at high rpms than [D[De, producing more boost than he thinks is comfortable. my question
> is: is it possible to have new piston, rods and crank producing a displacement of 2+(more the merrier)
> without affecting the compression? anyone done the 2.0 conversion, please also tell of the effects.
>
> sincerely,
> wei quek
> whquek@acs.ucalgary.ca
>
>
Wei,
This is an excerpt from european car (July 1995 - Triad):
"A trip to Raffi Eurosport Accessories for some head work revealed
that his engine had a bad piston. Discouraged from going to 2.0
liters by those in the know, Tony decided to instead bore out the
cylinders 0.5mm and install JE forged pistons, taking the engine from
1781cc to 1802cc."
Basically, if you bore the engine out to 2.0L, the cylinder walls
become too thin to withstand the compression produced by the boost
pressure. That's probably why EIP used a bubble block on their 2.0L
G60 conversion. Rich, can you verify this?
Matt Heffner
'90 Pearl Blue G60
e-mail: bad90g@epix.net
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Thu Feb 8 21:32 PST 1996
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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 1996 23:29:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: 2.0 l G60 (was stroker kit)
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> >I believe the reason is that the G-lader is simply not capable of
> >pushing the volume of air that is required to fill the cylinders.
>
> No. The reason this mod is not popular is extremely simple.
> You physically cannot increase the bore enough to get to 2 l,
> and the required stroker crank and block mods to fit the
> stroker crank are expensive. Add in the required low compression
No. The reason is volume. The G60 is to small. 1.8l 16V G60 Golf limited
runs 21 psi of boost (you can bet this is a Motorsport G-lader). This is
because the G-lader would not push enough air (at lowerspeeds) to keep the
velocity up through the 8 intake valves. At 21 psi it makes only 210 hp.
You will get that out of the 8 valve motor at roughly 14.5, because it is
better matched to the G-lader. The same holds true for going to 2.0l. You
have to run the G-lader at even higher speeds, speeds where it is
creating at least 17+ psi, to be able to fill the 2.0l volume. As we know
much more than 14.5 is not recomended for production G-laders. I did alot
of research on swapping in either a 2.0l or a 1.8 16v into my G60 several
years ago. Arron at APS told me he liked their yellow car better when it
was a 1.8, he said it was much more driveable, forget a 16V he said.
Unfortunatly I had already picked up a 16V motor (which is still in my
garage) for the swap. Then the car blew up.
Today I have a feeling that 2.0l and 16V motors may find a place
underhood with the G-lader. EIP and Tec Auto are both working on
performance G-laders that can push enough air (reliably) at lower boost
levels. Blah blah blah. enough from me. Will somone prove me wrong please.
Brian 93 VR6
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Feb 14 15:31 PST 1996
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Date: Wed, 14 Feb 1996 15:25:53 -0800
From: schwartz@emp.state.or.us (Todd Schwartz)
Subject: Lighting Relays, Idle S.V. mods.
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
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Q-
Thanks for the great info! I'll pass it on to the list...
>Relays on your headlights are a great idea. Don't really need to buy fancy
>ones. Any reasonable auto parts chain or even a discount store with an
>automotive aisle will carry a relay rated for between 20 and 40 amps @ 12
>volts. Most are black plastic housing with a little mounting tab. Cost is
>about $5. You will need some wire and terminals to make up the needed
>connections, but it is not hard. If you know nothing about wiring, I can go
>into more detail. I don't know how much the MASSIVE OVERKILL RELAY costs,
>but it probably isn't anything too special. They might provide it with a
>very clean looking wiring harness which is worth something, but again, with a
>little effort at making it look stock, you can do just as well with GENERIC
>CARPARTS. Adding relays can significantly increase the brightness of your
>headlights. It is especially noticable in an older car where heat and
>moisture have had their way with the fuse panel. We run relays for all the
>lights the rally car. Since the lighting load is no longer carried through
>the fuse panel, it can power the remaining circuits without a big voltage
>drop. The rally car has 770 watts of lights on the front end. That's a
>little more than 64 amps, for those lights alone. Relays are often necessary
>if you decide to run higher wattage headlights.
>
>Here is the scoop on the ISV deal that you have heard hints of. On G-60
>motors, the ISV serves two functions. When the engine is at idle, it serves
>to meter the proper amount of air to keep idle smooth and correct. When the
>engine is making boost, the ISV functions as a bleed valve to regulate boost
>(kind of like a waste-gate in a turbo system, but different since it is
>variable and adjusts boost, rather than setting an absolute limit). The
>pressure being bled off through the ISV is dumped to the bypass tube and
>returned to the G-60. One unfortunate side effect of this setup is that the
>bleed air is hot, and gets heated yet again as it gets recycled back to the
>G-lader. The modification involves rerouting the bleed air to the throttle
>body, which results in a 2.5lb increase in max boost pressure, but more
>importantly, gives much crisper throttle response. One source for the kit is
>Neuspeed, who markets the Gen2 kit. It is intended to work with their other
>mods and those of other aftermarket suppliers. It runs about $200 from APS,
>$175 from New Dimensions. It is overpriced, but the general feedback from
>users is tremendous. Neuspeed claims that it is a cure for older ISVs that
>are no longer functioning efficiently. I think that is hype, to qualify it
>for an Exemption Order. The Gen2 comes with a fuel enrichment system and the
>ISV trick pieces. If you have a G-60 that already has Neuspeed fuel
>enrichment from their HP1 kit, all you really need is the ISV stuff. I made
>my own. I will make a set for you for $45 + shipping. If you don't already
>have fuel enrichment, I can tell you what you need from the NAPA store to get
>it (you have to spend about $30 @ NAPA). If you don't have a G-60, pass this
>information to someone who does.
>
>Q
>
>
Todd Schwartz
'93 VR6 SLC
(Flash Red/Black Leather, Neuspeed Upper Tie Bar, K&N, 70 mph Spoiler, 5
brake lights)
schwartz@emp1.emp.state.or.us
\\\\\\
(; <> - -_-- \
_\ - ___ ) \
/ < = = => = = => = = = => -- __---- -- ) > \
/ - - _-- )___ \
,--------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
PRAY FOR WIND......
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Feb 21 12:04 PST 1996
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Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 12:58:01 -0700
From: TKay@RLAMAIL.US.DYNIX.COM
Subject: Re: Intercooler Mods -Reply
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>damage it? Have any G60 owners done this? Any positive results?
-------------------------
No screen is necessary. You don't cut one hole. Lay out a grid pattern, I
believe I did mine something like 5" wide by 6 or 7" high. Then space out
and drill a hole every half inch or so. I have had no debris problems.
What this does (I believe) is let the air BEHIND, the intercooler escape
more effectivly. Therefore, better flow!
I did notice a little more pep once into mid-band second gear (and above)
hope this helps!
P.S. Look in E/C magazine, the article on the white or Red cab TURBO
that ND did. One of the pictures shows the fender wells, and VOILA,
there is what you are trying to accomplish.
TK
From wkgee@ucdavis.edu Tue Feb 27 02:13 PST 1996
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From: Wayland Gee
Subject: FAQ stuff
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Jan, I ahve been too caught up in messing with my buddy's G60 to do any
work on my car at all but here is a little tid bit you might want to add
to the FAQ's it might be helpful. This article is an alternative to using
the vw tool to tension the alternator belt and also an alternative to
your 18" c-clamp method... hopefully this will help those as slow as me
who cannot see how the c-clamp can fit in the engine bay and still be
able to compress the strut thing without slipping :)
****** G60 Alternator belt tensioning ******
--------------------------------------------
Problem: Changing the alternator serpentine belt
Background: I have little to moderate mechanic
skills and often do not associate the right name
to the correct part and such things. Also I do
not have a large set of tools and often try to
find ways around using expensive or factory tools.
Scenerio: My friend's G60 corrado had the A/C bracket
break off so we decided to take the A/C out, this required
the purchase of an adjustable offset water pump pulley
(bought from EIP). Taking everything off to attach the
new pulley was not a real big problem as it is the same
on all VW's (get a 6mm allen socket, sears is good and
cheap, and a pair of locking pliers to hold the pulley
while you break loose the 6mm bolts). The hard part came
when we were ready to reinstall the alternator serpentine
belt, this new one we got was about 4 inches shorter than
stock and my buddy and I could not think of a way to get the
darn belt tensioning strut (dunno what it is called but I call
it a little strut cause it looks likes on with a spring attached
to it) to compress so we could slip it on to the mounting
bolt (the strut attaches but a bolt and nut on the bottom,
and it slides onto a bolt that holds the alternator in at the
top left hand side of the engine).
Solution: After asking how people tension the "little strut" on
the corrado mailing list I was given two solutions 1) was to use
the factory strut compression tool or 2) get a c-clamp to compress
the strut so it will slide on to the mounting bolt. I tried the second
solution but it did not work as the strut kept on slipping and I did
not want the strut to slide off and fly into my face (that would hurt).
So we were stuck... we were able to compress the strut using our body
weight when we placed it on the ground, but when it was in the car we
found it nearly impossible yo compress it (we needed to compress it
about an inch and a half). So my friend goes "Hey what if we use a
spoon?". At first I thought he was getting tired and shouting out
dumb solutions but seeing as it was late and we needed to get the car
running I said what the heck. To my surprise it worked. What we did was
bolt the lower strut onto the mounting spot, and then we used the spoon
(concave side down) and compressed the strut with our body weight. So
my friend compressed it form the front, while i used my hands to hold the
spring part down as he compressed it and manuvered it into the top bolting
position. As soon as we were able to catch a bit of it on the top
mounting position we were able to tap it the rest of the way in with a
hammer, stuck the nut back on and we were roadworthy again. We actually
did this like 4 times using the same method. The second we had to do it
because we forgot to put the upper timing belt cover back on before
installing the strut and the 3rd and 4th times were because we took the
head off the car to get it machined (it was warped) and the headgasket
was leaking.
Closing: So to use this method you have to have a spoon and a friend
to be able to accomplish installing the strut. Good luck. Also it may
seem kind of hard at first but trust me it works.
WAyland
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Apr 10 09:09 PDT 1996
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 12:03:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: HEDIN@HQ.RTIS-C.COM (Hedin, Andrew)
Subject: Autothority Stage II & ISV
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Status: RO
On Wednesday April 10, Bennett Shamsai posted:
PS: On friday I will be installing my Autothority Stage II upgrade!!!
Yeah. By the way, that is street legal, right? I think so. Also, have
people been happy with their ISV upgrades? Do they live up to there
promiss? Does anyone have an ISV upgrade and a Autothority stage II? And
the results are...?
Response:
I also have the Autothority Stage II kit on my '90 G60 and recently
installed the ISV re-route kit. I am very pleased with the results. I
definitely feel an increase in boost pressure (seat-of-the-pants). I did
not install the "fuel enrichment" portion of the kit, and I have had no
problems with pinging or fuel starvation. I would recommend the ISV
re-route kit.
Andrew Hedin (hedin@rtis-c.com)
1990 Yellow G60: OZ Corsa Rims, Neuspeed Strut Tower Brace, Autothority
Stage II, ISV Re-Route Kit, Gillet Exhaust, Brembo Rotors, 180 Degree Fan
Switch, 180 Degree Thermostat, 5 Brake Lights, Alpine/Polk/Advent
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Thu Apr 11 23:10 PDT 1996
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 23:09:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jan Vandenbrande
Subject: Watercooled intercooler?
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The other day when I had to pick my Corrado up at Ron Wood I had a chance
to examine his latest project (Ron is ralley racer--last flipped his
Scirocco end over end, so he needs a new car).
He is building his Ralley car based on a junked Audi Coupe.
He pretty much stripped the car to its shell and had all the necessary
reinforcements etc made. Because he's converting it 4WD, I think he
also welded in a quatro tunnel. He chucked the 5 cyl engine ("cant
get parts for that thing") in favor of a 16V VW engine mounted in line,
mated with an adpator to some transaxial.
Now here is where it gets interesting...he is turbocharging the 16V
engine (looks fairly straightforward as he got LOTS of space) and also
intercooling it...except that it's a watercooled intercooler made by
Garrett. The intercooler itself is actually fairly small roughly the
size of the G60's intercooler! but also a lot more efficient (I think
it's equivalent to an air to air unit 4 times larger). He is using
a separate water circuit and pump that contains 3 gallon of coolant (more than
the engine!) and a water to air radiator in the rear to cool the coolant.
He could have used engine coolant but this is more efficient.
He is expecting about 300 Hp out of this engine, not bad for a 4 cyl
~2 liter. Naturally, this is a race car and so is totally not street
legal nor do I think that it runs on regular gas.
Apparently, both Subaru (?) and Toyota utilize air to water inter coolers
and so naturally my mind immediately started wondering whether I could
fit such a unit in my G60 instead of the tiny air to air unit.
Unfortunately, it's also more complex and you have lug around more
coolant.
The G60 Golfs and ralley Golfs in Europe have a significantly larger
intercooler mounted *in front* of the radiator, but apparently it
will not fit in the more streamlined Corrado body style.
Just thought I'd give you some more food for thought.
OTOH, I wonder at what point the G60 engine is just gonna blow up
with all these enhancements? Any ideas how much these engines can
take (and the transaxle)?
--
o ___|___ [\\] | Jan Vandenbrande jan@ug.eds.com
__0 /\0/ /-------\ _ | http://alicudi.usc.edu:80/~jan/
\<,_ O \\ (_________) .#/_\_. | "Aerodynamics are for people who
(_)/ (_) // [_] [_] |_(_)_| | cannot build engines" - Enzo Ferrari
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Fri Apr 12 10:10 PDT 1996
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 13:01:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: Watercooled intercooler?
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> intercooling it...except that it's a watercooled intercooler made by
> Garrett. The intercooler itself is actually fairly small roughly the
> size of the G60's intercooler! but also a lot more efficient (I think
> it's equivalent to an air to air unit 4 times larger). He is using
> a separate water circuit and pump that contains 3 gallon of coolant (more than
I searched everywhere for a Toyota air/water intercooler for my G60. I
called about 20 dufferent salvage yards coast to coast none had any that
survived the accident. Toyota installed this intercooler on 88-90 Celica
Alltracs. Somewhere I have the factory drawings of all the plumbing and
comperturs and stuff that run this intercooler. That's right, it's
computer controlled. As the boost goes up, the electric coolant pump goes
faster and it has a temp switch that shuts the car down (it warns you
with a light first) should the intercoolers coolant get to hot, it's neat to
say the least!
While at the Toyota dealer (searching through their manuals to find all
the schematics) I had the parts guy price up everything. It approached
$1900. Salvage yards wanted about $250! if they had a complete set-up,
which they didn't. A deal at $250 though. O'well, keep your eyes peeled
for an 80s Celica w/ round fog lights in salvage yards. Would be a very
cool upgrade.
> with all these enhancements? Any ideas how much these engines can
> take (and the transaxle)?
I read somwhere that the tranny was designed for 230NM, anyone know the
conversion to ft/lbs offhand?
Later
brian 93 VR6
From JRMaddocks@aol.com Sun Apr 14 17:42 PDT 1996
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 20:37:18 -0400
From: JRMaddocks@aol.com
Subject: Intercoolers
To: jan@UG.EDS.COM
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Jan,
I was browsing through Sport Compact Car the other day at the magazine rack.
Between all the ads for neon lights, 10" tailpipes, and F40 wings, I saw one
from a company that specializes in intercoolers. They carry hundreds of
sizes and can accommodate custom orders. I can't remember the name of the
company, but I'll find out if you'd like.
A long, thin intercooler mounted below the bumper might work well. This
seems to be what all the turbocharged drag cars in the magazine were running,
though theirs were unprotected and thereby vulnerable to road debris. I
believe Oettinger mounted the intercooler of their 20v turbo C (EC, 5/92) in
this location. I don't know how much space is available behind the grill
down there (my C is currently in the body shop).
I've been looking at wrecked Japanese turbos, hoping to get some ideas. I
don't know if I have the courage to try that Renault Fuego intercooler
conversion you wrote me about last year -- it involves a lot of cutting. I
also need to save my money for replacing the charger, which appears to be on
its last legs. Maybe I'll be able to spring for a turbo conversion. Anyway,
hope this helps, and thanks for all your input to the list.
Jason
jrmaddocks@aol.com
'91 G60
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Sat Apr 13 20:08 PDT 1996
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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 22:59:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bennett Shamsai
Subject: Re: corrado-l-digest V1 #542
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To: "Phoebe (5/16) Donham" ,
corrado-l@teleport.com
Cc: corrado-l-digest@teleport.com
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Hi all,
I am writing to update everybody on my stage II upgrade! Well,
in a word, wow. I feel like I have an entirely new car. Yes, the low
end torque is still lacking but the car feels much more confident and
muscular throughout most of the RMP range. The car just pulls a lot more
and I am pleased with it. I also have a K&N filter in my airbox. (By
the way, it is an Autothority stage II)
The pulley has definitely changed the tone of my engine also. I
do not find it to be that much noiser but when it idles it purrs much
more than it did before. Ok, now for the problems: A question about
MPG. Most people report that Stage II has no effect on gas milage but I
have noticed a dramatic difference, I think. I say I think because my
computer is reporting a dramatic difference but I don't know how the
computer calculates MPG. On a short strech of highway, I reset my
computer and drove EXTREMELY conservatively, (60 MPH with as little
varrience as possible) and my MPG computer read only 20.6 MPG. I use to
be able to get about 27 or 29 on highways if I drove that slowly with no
acceleration. So, my question is, how does the computer calculate MPG? If
it uses the vacume line to estimate fuel consumption than it seems to me
that it would make sense that the computer would read so low because the
supercharge is greatly increasing the combustion, even if my gas
comsumption hasn't really increased much.
I don't own a Bentley, does it explain this? I would love some
input on this. I am also thinking about a new exhaust system sometime in
the future but I have a concern about that: I have read literature that
brags about their system being specifically designed for the G60 to
reduce/eliminate (depending on how cocky they are) exhaust port turbulance
but I would think that the new blower compression rate would also alter
my exhaust flow velocity, making me wonder whether I will run into more
turbulance problems with some systems than others. Any thoughts? I
guess I should cross that bridge when I come to it.
In any case, the long and the short of it is that I am very happy
with my stage II. I am now thinking Stage III and ISV bypass. More
power, more power, more power, (whoa, Mama Joe)!
By the way, to the people who are discussing the boost pressure
gauge: if the Corrado computer does use the vacume pressure to do the MPG
calculation than I would think someone amoung us is smart enough to
figure out how to tap into that electric signal and just convert that to
the pressure gauge. I guess it is not too hard to just put a T connector
in the fuel pressure regulator line but... Also, to the person thinking
about using lights for his/her guage, it would be pretty impressive if
you used those rectangular LED's end set them up like the recording
levels on a good tape deck with a set of like three green than three
orange and finally three red, so that you had more of a progression than
just the two lights. Come to think of it, you could probably just get
your whole light set-up off of an old tape deck. That could be a pretty
fun thing to explain to passengers, and you could use it to double as an
alarm indicator when you are not driving by using the ignition lead.
Humm, now I am getting interested too. Please keep us up to date on your
progress.
Wow, I used a lot of bandwidth tonight. Sorry, but I haven't
written in a while. Take care.
Bennett
1990 red G60, K&N filter, upgraded stereo, 205/50/15 BFG Comp TA Z tires,
Autothority stage II kit, Tokiko chocks (rear only). Soon getting new
rims (Borbet type H with Dunlop sp Sport 8000), maybe getting ISV
bypass and new springs. Any advice welcome.
PS: Does anybody have an extra Red driver's side mirror lying around? I
do not need the heat option. If so, please e-mail me directly at
bshamsai@bu.edu Thanks. ;-)
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Thu Apr 18 01:50 PDT 1996
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 22:48:21 -0400
From: MDaily632@aol.com
Subject: Re: corrado-l-digest V1 #547
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In a message dated 96-04-16 07:42:16 EDT, you write:
>
>Also, to anyone, what is the definition/function of a Hobbs switch?
"Hobbs" switch is a misnomer. Neuspeed introduced us to the term in their
ads. Hobbs=SW Hobbs Corporation. Hobbs makes lots of switches, just like
VDO makes lots of gauges. The "Hobbs" switch that Neuspeed sells is a
pressure sensing unit that closes a single, normally-open contact at +5 psi.
Nothing magic about it. Other companies make nearly identical units.
Mike
Grey/Black x 2
From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Sat May 4 07:59 PDT 1996
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Date: Sat, 04 May 1996 14:17:16 +0000 (UT)
From: Christopher Shenefield
Subject: FW: G60 intercooler
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For those who people on the list who are new to turbos and superchargers
(maybe not many), this post is for you. I think that anyone with a turbo or
supercharger would agree that hot intake air is one of the enemies of their
engine. I have seen large changes in intake air between a car moving slowly
in heavy traffic and the same car at highway speeds. The difference in intake
air temps can be 100+ degrees between those two situation. If you have an
engine that can take advantage of the cooler air, then that cooler air will
net more hp because cooler air is more dense and let prone to knocking.
Take, for example, a Saab Turbo with knock dependent boost. If the computer
hears knocking, then the computer will open the wastegate. So, the fact that
cool air is less prone to knocking means that the computer will keep the
wastegate open to relatively higher boost levels and give more power.
I think that on the G60 engine, the gains would be
1) less knocking so that the engine doesn't retard timing and make you loose
power especially in the low and midrange.
2) denser intake air (more oxygen to burn per cubic centemeter) for slightly
more power at all rev ranges.
Did you ever feel that your car is more powerful when it is first warming up
than when it is at full operating temp. I believe that some of this is due to
getting used to the car each and every time you drive it, BUT I also believe
it is due to the relatively cooler air that is entering the engine because the
engine's heat isn't heating the intake air.
When you ask if the cooler air will affect low rpm power, I would say 'yes'
for the above 2 reasons. What is important, however, is that the speed of the
vehicle affects the temp of the intake air ALOT because of the flow of outside
air through the intercooler, as well as around the engine and into the cars
intake. A fan will help the situation mostly when sitting at a long traffic
light on going relatively slow in heavy traffic.
My opinion: If I had a turbo or supercharger car, I would make every attempt
to cool the intake air (charge air) because the net power increase can be
large.
But this is just my opinion...I could be wrong. -Dennis Miller
Chris Shenefield
----------
From: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com on behalf of Mr. Shannon Moore
Sent: Friday, May 03, 1996 11:58 PM
To: corrado digest
Subject: G60 intercooler
I was wondering if putting a fan in front of the intercooler, to
force air through it at low speeds, would be worth the effort and would
there be any gain perhaps in the low end? I read some where that it was
believed that one of the reasons for poor low end is lack of air flow
through the intercooler. Don't know if this even makes sense. Any
thoughts?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_/_/_/ _/_/ _/_/_/ Mr. Shannon Moore
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ http://pegasus.cc.ucf.edu/~shm52527
_/ _/ _/_/ _/ _/ email:shm52527@pegasus.cc.ucf.edu
_/ _/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ University of Central Florida
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/
1990 Black Corrado Toyo Proxes T1 Mintex pads
16" OZ Monte Carlos Crossdrilled& slotted rotors
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: Hulda Jowett
Subject: Re: G60 intercooler
In-Reply-To:
Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com
To: "Mr. Shannon Moore"